Ranger livewell lever

[coach76]

I didnt notice it right away, but tried using later this summer, only other time was when it was winterized. The lever moves left and right, but loose no tension. I took off couple of screws and pulled it out to evaluate. Their is a wire on back that seems fine, but when I tool off the bottom of the control I notice some small pieces of black plastic. Not sure if I explain this very good. But do you think I I call new control lever from Ranger my problem will be solved. If needed I can take pictures

[mikesxpress]

Order the new control from Flow-rite. Much better built just don't over tighten it when installing. Search in here for lubrication instructions for the cable that should be done at least once a year.

[ZII9C]

Did anyone find the instructions? Can you send a link?

[jc2bg]

Do you use your livewell? I assume you are talking about the control for recirculate/empty/auto (fill). If it feels like it has no tension, it probably isn’t doing anything and needs replaced. A picture certainly would help, or the model/year of your boat.

[mikesxpress]

Pull the actuator cable end up out of the service well and lubricate the steel cable by adding drops of light oil with suspended graphite and working this thru the entire cable by moving it thru it's full range of motion lots & lots of times. The 3 position knob should move with little effort. This process takes two beers to complete. You will see the rust work it's way out.
*Note: The cable rod inside is cold rolled steel and rusts inside the sheath due to bilge water which builds resitance and is the primary cause of folks breaking the knob. Us saltwater guys do this lube every year.

[coach76]

Yes its the control for recirculate/empty/auto(). No tension is exactly the problem, your right its doing nothing. My boat is a 2012 Ranger 1850 Reata

[coach76]

Pull the actuator cable end up out of the service well and lubricate the steel cable by adding drops of light oil with suspended graphite and working this thru the entire cable by moving it thru it's full range of motion lots & lots of times. The 3 position knob should move with little effort. This process takes two beers to complete. You will see the rust work it's way out.
*Note: The cable rod inside is cold rolled steel and rusts inside the sheath due to bilge water which builds resitance and is the primary cause of folks breaking the knob. Us saltwater guys do this lube every year.

So your saying just lubricate the end, then pulling on it by hand to lubricate the entire rod. Part of problem is lack of use last year and then not much use this year. Thanks for your input. My baitwell still works so that where I have been putting any keepers to eat.

[11pounder]

It's either broken or disconnected at either the lever or the valve or the cable has broken somewhere in between.

[mikesxpress]

With the lever control assembly removed from the boat and the cable still attached to it, hold it and turn the knob L/R. Does it move the cable wire in/out of the black sheath?

[mikesxpress]

So your saying just lubricate the end, then pulling on it by hand to lubricate the entire rod. Part of problem is lack of use last year and then not much use this year. Thanks for your input. My baitwell still works so that where I have been putting any keepers to eat.

Depending on how much crud is built up inside the cable you may have to initially start moving it with vise grips till the oil works it's way thru. Also check the routing of the cable to the valve. It should not have ANY sharp bends.

[CaymasRodney]

Take the three screws out that hold it in place, unhook the wire cable that goes to the back, pull and push to make sure its working ok, if it is its probably the red handle has broken on the changing switch, we have replaced a ton of those.

[coach76]

The next time I get to my boat, I will do as you suggest RangerRodney. I did do that the other day, but was just checking the switch and not the cable. I will also take couple pictures of my switch front and back if the cable is working. Thanks for the tip

[basscfo]

I didnt notice it right away, but tried using later this summer, only other time was when it was winterized. The lever moves left and right, but loose no tension. I took off couple of screws and pulled it out to evaluate. Their is a wire on back that seems fine, but when I tool off the bottom of the control I notice some small pieces of black plastic. Not sure if I explain this very good. But do you think I I call new control lever from Ranger my problem will be solved. If needed I can take pictures

That little contol handle is going to break again. or you can read this post i made in april of 2012, and fix it for good. PM me if you have any questions.

You can get a new control handle assembly from Ranger or flo contol for about $16.00 and all the other parts if you want to replace it all, but the valve will break again at some point, or you can fix the control handle/valve where it will not break again with about 30 minutes work and $10.00 or so in hardware and epoxy. I had along post on this problem that did not survive the move to the new forum so here it is again- my livewell switch broke and I have found many others in the forum that have had the same problem. The switch is not built strong enough to handle the required force or torque to move the control cable if the cable gets a little stiff and they all stiffen over time. The livewell contol switch has a plastic handle(the part you turn) that is molded to a 3/8" plastic rod. this plastic rod has a brass knurled insert that has a square end that actually locks in to an actuator arm and and causes the cable to the livewell valve to move through its positions. The control handle always breaks where the 3/8" rod is attached to the control handle. I upgraded my valve by replacing the plastic 3/8' rod with a piece of 3/8" aluminium tubing, then pinning and epoxying the control handle to the aluminium rod. Here are the steps to make this repair and upgrade.

1) Remove 2 phillips screws from the livewell contol valve, pull the valve control through the hole and disconnect the broken contol assembly from the cable
2) remove the screw that attaches the livewell contol arm to the brass square ended insert
3) break the plastic 3/8" rod or cut it away from the brass knurled insert with a dremel tool
4) cut a piece of 3/8" aluminum tbg(from hardware store) approx 1 5/8" long
5) drill a 3/8" hole the center of the broken control handle
6) epoxy the brass knurled insert into the aluminium tbg and alow to dry over night
7) drill a 1/8" hole through the tbg and knurled insert and drive a 1/8" x 3/8" long drivepin into the 1/8" hole
8) slide the aluminium tbg through the contol handle so that the tbg with square end of knurled insert protrudes
1 1/4" from back of control handle
9) drill a 1/8" hole through/across the control valve handle and aluminium tbg
10) drive a 1/8" x 1 15/16" brass rod (cut to length from a piece if brass rod from hardware store) through control handle and aluminium tbg.
11) epoxy the handle to the aluminium tbg and the brass drive rod Wait over night epoxy to cure
12) reassemble valve, attach to cable and reenstall.
what you now have is a lot stronger than a new control and will not break due to a stiff cable.

[coach76]

Basscfo, I appreciate you sending me what to do, but I am not good at doing that type of job. And I would not ask anyone to do. The cable is moving in and out, so will just replace the flow rite control. Thank you again