Brakes got HOT / Help

[Coke]

OK ... So this morning I head to the lake for a few hours of fishing. I put the boat in, park, and go back to look at my bunk boards and side boards. I helped a buddy replace his over the weekend so just wanted to check, no problems, everything looks good. After a few hours it's time to load up and head home, put the boat on the trailer and pulled up into the lot to wipe it down, no problems. Now I head home, about a 30 minute drive, and back into the driveway up a small incline. When I get out and walk back to the boat I smell brakes. The hubs are HOT, I spit on them and the water turned to steam instantly. No problem backing into the drive or any noticeable drag coming home. My buddy stopped by and we pulled the wheels off, everything looked good with the pads and caliper. The wheels were covered with a light coating of brake dust. We checked the brake fluid, all good and no air in the lines. It seems like the brakes are just not fully releasing. It's a 2011 Marine Master trailer. Any ideas on what it could be?

[TripleT]

I have seen the front surge stick just enough from rust or corrosion and cause that. Lube the front surge down really well.

[Coke]

I have seen the front surge stick just enough from rust or corrosion and cause that. Lube the front surge down really well.

We messed with the spring underneath there, used a screwdriver to move it back and forth. That seemed to help, kind of like it was sticking. So where do you lube, and with what? Just squirt WD40 or some type of grease in there?

[TX721]

How about the push rod release? Maybe it was engaged somehow.
I just replaced my bearings, turned rotors, replaced pads and finally bled my brakes then went for a test drive. Stopped to check and my hubs were warm but the lug nuts were hot. While bleeding and pushing the cylinder rod with a screwdriver, I didn’t hit the push rod release. So the brakes were engaged...duh. Glad I didn’t drive far. Here’s a link to the UFP A60 manual. Lots of info on line about our surge brake actuator. Hope you get to the bottom of it!

http://eagletrailer.com/manuals/UFP%20A-60.pdf

[Coke]

OK, I think it's fixed (hope so). After checking the alignment of everything to do with the wheels, all was fine there. Checked for air in the brake lines, nothing there. Looked for anything obvious inside the tongue, from what I could see all seemed fine. So on Friday I took a suggestion from another BBC member and it seemed to work. I sprayed "Liquid Wrench" in the tongue, into every nook and cranny I could. I let it sit for about 30 minutes, then with a chock in front and back of both wheels, rocked it back and forth pretty good about a dozen times. Then I sprayed some more and let it sit a little while longer. Then I took it for a test drive, drove 20 minutes and pulled over to check the hubs, they were cool. Took off and drove some more, all still good, so turned around and headed back toward the house. Got home and backed in to the driveway, got out and checked it out, all still seemed good and cool to the touch. So after driving about 1 1/2 hours everything seemed to be working again. Yesterday we had a club tournament at Lake Moomaw, a beautiful place in the mountains about 1 1/4 hours from home. Pulled the boat up there and back and everything worked fine, no problems, and even caught some fish. Only thing I can think of is that something in the tongue was not fully releasing, hopefully this loosened it up and no more problems.

[Ohio Archer]

Make sure you flush the actuator and lines. Should be done every couple of years or it will turn to sludge.

[DABS]

chocking the wheels and extending the actuator forward will keep this from happening. Leaving it in a partially applied position, leaves the piston in the master cylinder exposed to humidity and it will rust that honed sleeve in no time. Pulling forward after parking will protect the sleeve.

[Coke]

chocking the wheels and extending the actuator forward will keep this from happening. Leaving it in a partially applied position, leaves the piston in the master cylinder exposed to humidity and it will rust that honed sleeve in no time. Pulling forward after parking will protect the sleeve.

Thanks ... never heard that before