Any experience running 10ga or equivalent power line to bow and console power hungry depthfinders> ? Developed a voltage drop to my bow unit and can't find it, so considering running separate power lines to the units... any pointers? my 521c is only a 2015 model and would figure Ranger uses heavy power lines to the units, but now tired of sifting thru all the wire spaghetti looking for voltage drops/bad connections
Plenty of experienced guys will comment on this subject. Common advise is the battery size upgrade to run all the gizmos in your boat. The upsized battery option also helps with starting your outboard. I have installed a complete dedicated wiring system for my electronics, point 1 and structure scan module. I’m by no means a expert on wiring but had great advice from (CatFan Wiring Moderator). Here is the Blue Seas System that I installed.
Older system but illustrates the basic wiring design.
New breaker installed directly to start battery.
Wires pulled with a fish tape from counsel to battery compartment. Fished new wires through the conduit to the bow also.
Blue Seas fuse panel installed under counsel. Power each device from this panel. This system isolates all your electronics on one system. This system also makes trouble shooting very easy. I have had this system several years with no issues. I run three units off it and preformed as expected.
Wayne
I ran 10ga wire from battery to console unit and from battery to bow unit. I have a terminal fuse block on a group 31 AGM starting battery. If I had more accessories like 360, more that two units, etc. I'd go with a dedicated fuse panel like posted above.
https://www.wholesalemarine.com/blue...SABEgLlPfD_BwE
Originally Posted by WjColdWater
Plenty of experienced guys will comment on this subject. Common advise is the battery size upgrade to run all the gizmos in your boat. The upsized battery option also helps with starting your outboard. I have installed a complete dedicated wiring system for my electronics, point 1 and structure scan module. I’m by no means a expert on wiring but had great advice from (CatFan Wiring Moderator). Here is the Blue Seas System that I installed.
Older system but illustrates the basic wiring design.
New breaker installed directly to start battery.
Wires pulled with a fish tape from counsel to battery compartment. Fished new wires through the conduit to the bow also.
Blue Seas fuse panel installed under counsel. Power each device from this panel. This system isolates all your electronics on one system. This system also makes trouble shooting very easy. I have had this system several years with no issues. I run three units off it and preformed as expected.
Wayne
so all the units have power all the time? what about wiring to the main power off switch/jumper switch on the newer Rangers??
This provides power constant to all units. I could have tied it to the main switch. I chose to isolate to its own breaker for ease of power disconnection for troubleshooting. Others will have their opinions. This wiring system is not expensive to install if you DIY. Post on the Wiring Form also, great guys there also.
thanks WJColdwater
WjColdwater, where is best place to get the marine grade, tin/wire heavy wiring from?? thanks
and noticing you have 3 wires instead of 2..... do you run white 10ga to bow unit and use the ground up at the bow? or use separate ground from the blue seas fuse box? I assume you run the positive and negative heavy gauge from the cranking battery to the fuse box itself.... I am thinking of running it to the switch in the battery compartment that lets me turn off all power, jump, or run as normal....
What do you think?
Good Info in this thread
yes Good thread, and Good people!!
The white is actually a tinned duplex red and yellow 14 awg. This is the hot and ground coming from the Blue Seas fuse block. This is run to the bow to power that unit. The separate single yellow wire is to connect the structure scan module to each unit. That wire is only required for older HDS units mine is gen2. The hot and ground off the battery is Marine Tinned 8 awg one red and black. As far as coming off the jump switch that’s a question for another poster. I think separating to its own main breaker in the battery compartment is the way to go. But that’s just my preference. Make sure you purchase all marine tinned wire and connectors. I purchased all the supplies from: PKYS Annapolis,MD lots of suppliers on a google search.
Totally agree with WjColdWater. The 2018 522D Ranger built for me for the second time was a complete wiring mess. Since I have no dealer to turn to I completly "un Rangered" my boats electrical system.
Isolating 4 Carbon HDS12 units and NEMA with their own dedicated power using the Blue sea fuse block and breaker is the way to go. Works like a charm. Got nice connectors and heat shrink as well cost me around $200 for everything
I will admit there was some swearing going on during the project, but in the end I was very happy to be rid of the cheesy spade connectors and wiring that came with my boat.
I made a couple posts on here last spring and the guys dialed me in for my set up.....knowledgeable people.
Great post! Thanks for mentioning the NEMA powered off the block also.
Last edited by WjColdWater; 10-09-2018 at 09:07 PM.
this is much appreciated.
I had to run a 6 ga for the Ultrex so I just used the 8 ga that was already there to power everything else and I wired it like the above illustrations.
2016 Ranger RT188 Charcoal Metallic Dual Console
2017 Yamaha 115 VMAX SHO SS Prop
Lowrance Elite 7Ti in console
Humminbird Helix 10 SI on BBT Bow Mount
Humminbird Helix 10 SI on a BalZout @ Console
Minn Kota Ultrex 80 - 24V i-Pilot Link
Transducer Shield Mount
Custom step in place of center seat
Trick Step
Just did the same thing on a 14 119c. I ran 8 ga to a blue sea fuse panel located in rod locker I then ran 10 ga to each unit a helix 12 and 10. You will need good wire crimpers and the wire fishing spool electricians use I forgot what it's called it's made by Klein tools you can get it at homedepot. And get ready for the blast of fishing wires thru your boat which is a total nightmare but look on the bright side at least your not doing it in 95 degree high humidity days like I did. I've had zero issues with mine so far and I used a blue seas cutoff switch I mounted in the battery compartment I highly recommend that as well. A reputable marine installer quoted me just under 2 grand so I just did it myself. Good luck on your venture.
so you think a 30 amp breaker would be too larger for this application ??
25 amp powers three units, NEMA, Side Scan Module and Point One on my setup. Not sure if 30 amp would be to big. Post on the wiring forum for confirmation.
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