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  1. #1
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    Lightbulb 175 TXW Steering upgrade

    Have any of you upgraded your 175 or 190 from factory steering to a hydraulic steering system. If so, which one and what length hoses did you run?
    2023 Triton 18TRX
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  2. Member
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    Feb 2018
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    #2
    I used the Baystar kit... The hoses in the kit were far more than long enough, and can be cut to length if desired.
    2011 Tracker PT 175 TF
    2011 Merc 60 ELPT 4S

  3. Member
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    Jun 2012
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    Louisiana
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    #3
    My son has a Tracker Grizzly 1860, 90 Merc 4 stroke. It came with the Seastar on it. Steers so much nicer then my 175

  4. Member TritonTRXV8's Avatar
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    #4
    I have not done it yet always say i will get a baystar kit whenever the cable gives me trouble but it still never has. I can turn it at rest with one finger and easily with 1 hand under way. Trim and setup play a huge roll but hydraulic is obviously going to be smoother. Baystar is fine on these rigs under 150 hp tho.
    Roy
    2020 Triton 18 Trx
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  5. Member
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    #5
    My original cable steer works fine but it has slack in it at the steering wheel. Since I am running faster speeds with the flash, this has become a concern.
    2023 Triton 18TRX
    2023 Mercury 200 Pro XS
    80# Ultrex IPilot Link
    Helix 12 Mega SI & Garmin Livescope w/ 1242XSV GPSmap

  6. Member TritonTRXV8's Avatar
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    #6
    Been running 45+ cruising speeds and mid 50s top speed and the cable steering has never made me feel unsafe. These hulls dont chine walk at all so you really dont have to chase the hull at speed. Trim and setup are key i never have any steering feedback ever. For a convenience upgrade i say yes as far as safety concern not so much.
    Roy
    2020 Triton 18 Trx
    Mercury 200 Pro XS V8
    Bravo FS 24P Prop
    Atlas 6” jp
    Dual Humminbird Helix 10 MEGA SI
    Minnkota Ultrex.

  7. Member
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    #7
    I can grab my engine and move it from side to side at least 1/2 to 3/4 inch before it gets the slack out. It is in the steering wheel side.
    2023 Triton 18TRX
    2023 Mercury 200 Pro XS
    80# Ultrex IPilot Link
    Helix 12 Mega SI & Garmin Livescope w/ 1242XSV GPSmap

  8. #FRB
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by G4bama View Post
    I can grab my engine and move it from side to side at least 1/2 to 3/4 inch before it gets the slack out. It is in the steering wheel side.
    That's the anti-feedback steering. They all do that. I've never had a problem with it.
    2023 Xpress H18 with 115 SHO and Powertech NRS4 21p
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    Pulled by a 2016 single cab HEMI Ram

    Treat others like you want to be treated when on the water EVEN WHEN IN A TOURNAMENT! No fish is worth having a confrontation because you cut someone off or came in on top of someone.

  9. Member
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    May 2016
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    Saint Paul, MN
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    #9
    Bringing this tread back up. I have an 05 pt175 and the steering is stiff. 50hp merc. Is it worth upgrading to hydraulic or should I just get an O.E cable replacement?

  10. Member
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    Feb 2018
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    Minnesota
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    #10
    Worth the cost to upgrade to hydraulic, only you can be the judge of that.

    Is it stiff at idle? It cant hurt to check if some maintenance could free it up some... most of these steps you would do if you were replacing it anyhow.

    You may want to disconnect the drag link and find out if the resistance is in the motor pivot or in the steering linkage itself. If its in the steering turn the wheel so the steering rod thats sticking out of the tilt tube is the shortest it can be, loosen the nut and slide the steering cable out of the tube. Test steering resistance at the wheel again, if it turns easily, clean the telescoping portion of the cable and clean out the pivot tube, re-lube and reassemble.
    2011 Tracker PT 175 TF
    2011 Merc 60 ELPT 4S

  11. Member
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    May 2016
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    Saint Paul, MN
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by R2Tracker View Post
    Worth the cost to upgrade to hydraulic, only you can be the judge of that.

    Is it stiff at idle? It cant hurt to check if some maintenance could free it up some... most of these steps you would do if you were replacing it anyhow.

    You may want to disconnect the drag link and find out if the resistance is in the motor pivot or in the steering linkage itself. If its in the steering turn the wheel so the steering rod thats sticking out of the tilt tube is the shortest it can be, loosen the nut and slide the steering cable out of the tube. Test steering resistance at the wheel again, if it turns easily, clean the telescoping portion of the cable and clean out the pivot tube, re-lube and reassemble.
    Thanks R2Tracker! Boat is currently still in storage but once I get it out I'll check the steering.

  12. Member
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    Mar 2016
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    Illinois
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    #12
    I upgraded to the baystar setup on my pt 185 but I used the seastar hoses instead of the baystar tubing and I also upgraded to the baystar plus helm HH4514-3. The combination of the seastar hoses and the plus helm is as close as you can get steering effort wise to the seastar kit without spending nearly as much money.. if you piece it all together separately. I went with 16’ hoses btw and they were perfect for my 185. After testing it out on the lake this past weekend I can say without a doubt one of the better upgrades I’ve ever done. The steering feels so effortless compared to the cable it’s crazy. At times I find myself looking back at the motor to make sure it’s actually turning lol. Best part is when planing off you get no torque through the wheel at all you could take your hands off and it would stay completely straight.
    2005 pro team 185
    2005 opti 115
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