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  1. Member
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    #21
    I think I got Gremlins.

    Got the carbs correct and fixed my kink in the fuel pump pulse line. I pulled the boat out of the garage to "test" run it with muffs today and it would not start. It would crank, but not fire. Tested for spark and I did not have spark. I took the cover off the power pack, jiggled the wires, tapped on the coil packs with the back of the screwdriver....... Bam! Now I have spark and the engine fired right up. Not sure if I got a bad power pack too???

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #22
    Make sure your power pack ground is clean and tight.

  3. Member
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    #23


    Finally got to get out on the water to do a full test. The engine still dies when I accelerate. In this video I'm slowly accelerating and then when I get to a certain point it just dies. Then it is impossible to restart unless I let it sit for about 10 mins.

    No clue what I got going on here. On the way home today I did have my 3 year old starter battery checked and it was bad.
    Last edited by natchomamma; 10-14-2018 at 04:32 PM.

  4. Member
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    #24
    Does it always do this at the same rpm? Of course you've checked all of the fuel supply issues, hard bulb, fuel in the carbs, needle and seat and float level in the VST. It will idle all day and then this happens? You might want to look at the timing encoder for cracks, that's just a thought. I would test the stator, follow your OMC service manual. Sometimes on a intermittent stator issue, only the ohms test will give you a clue. I've run into your problem before and it was the pack and sensor, but it always started right back up. I certainly would not rule out the pack, or maybe even the ignition switch.

  5. Member
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    #25


    I just replaced this pump and found this today. I wonder if this is my problem........

  6. Member
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    #26
    When an outboard runs out of fuel at high or top rpm it will sometimes just die suddenly, at lower rpm's it will most of the time die out slowly, of course this may not always be the case. A fuel leak is never good. I am having a problem here, you are very good at asking questions but not very good at answering them, but that's alright, I have other things to do anyway.

  7. Member
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    #27
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    Make sure your power pack ground is clean and tight.
    I did and it is good

  8. Member
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    #28
    Quote Originally Posted by 316jughead View Post
    Does it always do this at the same rpm? Of course you've checked all of the fuel supply issues, hard bulb, fuel in the carbs, needle and seat and float level in the VST. It will idle all day and then this happens? You might want to look at the timing encoder for cracks, that's just a thought. I would test the stator, follow your OMC service manual. Sometimes on a intermittent stator issue, only the ohms test will give you a clue. I've run into your problem before and it was the pack and sensor, but it always started right back up. I certainly would not rule out the pack, or maybe even the ignition switch.
    Only dies when I try to accelerate. I've never had any issues with it dying at idle. The fuel bulb stays firm, needle and float are good. I did have a kink in the line from the pulse block to the WSM pump. That was fixed prior to running it today.

    I did an Ohm test on all 3 coils per the manual and they passed.

  9. Member
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    #29
    That video in post no.23 is electrical, that is you are loosing spark and stopping. Stator, OIS timing sensor, timing wheel and powerpack need to be checked. Of course leaking fuel out of the fuel pump cap needs to be fixed too but is not the root cause of what happened in the video.

  10. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #30
    Quote Originally Posted by natchomamma View Post


    I just replaced this pump and found this today. I wonder if this is my problem........
    Tighten the knurled screw you're leaking around the O ring seal on the pump.

  11. Member
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    #31
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    Tighten the knurled screw you're leaking around the O ring seal on the pump.
    I can do that.

  12. Member
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    #32
    I decided to take the boat into the shop today. I'm getting frustrated and not solving my problem. This one is evidently over my head. Hopefully the shop can get it sorted out without taking me for a ride. I'll keep everyone posted with the outcome. Appreciate everyone trying to help.

  13. Member
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    #33
    Diagnosis from the boat shop------ I had a hole in the recirculation hose and the leak in the fuel pump post 25.

  14. Member
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    #34
    Quote Originally Posted by natchomamma View Post
    Diagnosis from the boat shop------ I had a hole in the recirculation hose and the leak in the fuel pump post 25.
    A hole in the recirculation hose could cause an idle problem, and the leak in the pump is no good. Have they run the motor and it runs great? Starts right up after a long idle time?

  15. Member
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    #35
    Quote Originally Posted by 316jughead View Post
    A hole in the recirculation hose could cause an idle problem, and the leak in the pump is no good. Have they run the motor and it runs great? Starts right up after a long idle time?
    The work up sheet says they;
    1. Replaced a recirculation line
    2. link ans sync carbs
    3. tighten screws on fuel pump to stop fuel leak
    4. test run engine (then have a tub they run it in).

    It NEVER starts right up after the engine dies. I have to wait a minimum of 15 minutes before it will start up. After a "rest" period it will start right up and idle. Then the cycle will start all over again.

    Long story short. I took it out and tested it recently and I still have the same problem. Back to the shop tomorrow. Im gonna give this shop one more try and if they can't correctly diagnose/fix the issue, I'm gonna take it to the Platinum certified Evinrude dealer, Action Marine in Austin, TX.
    Last edited by natchomamma; 10-21-2018 at 11:22 AM. Reason: update

  16. Member
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    #36
    We didn't think that would fix the problem If I were to make a guess, I would say stator problems. You need a dealer with a dyno or test prop so they can run the motor at the rpm's that his happens, then in the "rest" period they have time to test the ignition and stop circuit.

  17. Member
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    #37
    Shop said that it needed a "module". "It would overheat and cut out". Im getting this info secondhand.

    What the heck is a "module"?
    Last edited by natchomamma; 10-30-2018 at 04:47 PM. Reason: e

  18. Member
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    #38
    Second hand info? I'm guessing they mean the power pack? You must not have it at a BRP shop. I think they should do the resistance test on the stator, if they know how, if the tests are off pull the flywheel and inspect the stator for melted potting or evidence of over heating. It could be the power pack, but I would make sure that this is not just a guess on their part.

  19. Member
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    #39
    Quote Originally Posted by 316jughead View Post
    Second hand info? I'm guessing they mean the power pack? You must not have it at a BRP shop. I think they should do the resistance test on the stator, if they know how, if the tests are off pull the flywheel and inspect the stator for melted potting or evidence of over heating. It could be the power pack, but I would make sure that this is not just a guess on their part.
    Its the only shop in San Antonio that will work on older engines. No Evinrude dealers here. If they don't solve my problems this time I'll take it to the Evinrude dealer in Austin, TX. The part that pisses me off about this is I have to pay every time I take it back because they did not completely diagnose the problem (I don't mind paying, but do mind over paying). They charged me an hour labor last time to change a recirculation line that probably really only took 15mins. I can't complain about it because they will hold my boat ransom until I pay them what they want. I won't know if it is completely fixed until I take the boat to a lake. The closest lake is 30 mins away.

    I called to inquire on my boat and the Admin relayed the info (she isn't a tech). They are waiting for the part. They ordered a "Module". Im assuming it is the power pack, but don't know for sure.

    Unfortunately, how am I gonna know if it is a "guess" on their part (other than asking and who would admit that its a guess)? I'm not a technician and don't have much of an argument.

    Its late and I'm venting. Long story short I just would like to get my engine fixed and NOT taken for a ride.

  20. Member
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    #40
    I know exactly how you feel, we don't mind the venting. It's so frustrating. Hopefully they are right this time. I think they are on he right track, about the heating up and breaking down part. Easy for me to say but hang in there, we are pulling for you.

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