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  1. #1
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    95 150HP ELEOM Dies on throttle up after extended idle. Help Please

    My 95 150HP Evinrude will die on throttle up when I idle for a long period of time. Once it dies it won't restart until I wait about 15 mins. After I wait it will fire right back up. I have tried to restart it with the choke on but it won't start immediately after it dies. I'm thinking it is flooded and that is why I have to wait for a period of time to restart it?

    Anyone know what could be causing this and how to fix it. I just did a carb rebuild on all 6 carbs thinking this might help, but I still have the same problem.

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    #2
    On extended idle time are you keeping the motor level to keep the exhaust relief holes on the back of the motor out of the water? Does it smoke a lot? I once asked a guy this and he said "cigars only" turned out to be a great customer. We can get this fixed.

    Follow up questions, are you running the VRO? What is the idle RPM in gear?
    Last edited by 316jughead; 10-03-2018 at 05:21 PM.

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    #3
    I am not running the VRO. I premix 50:1. With the boat out of the water and muffs on it idles just below 900rpm in gear. Im using a "tiny tach" to check rpm. On the water for example while doing a 1 man launch if I leave the boat idling at the dock while parking the truck and then idle out of the no wake zone. Once Im out of the no wake zone and try to accelerate to get on plane then engine will sputter then die immediately and then it is impossible to get the engine to restart without waiting for approximately 10 mins.

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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by natchomamma View Post
    I am not running the VRO. I premix 50:1. With the boat out of the water and muffs on it idles just below 900rpm in gear. Im using a "tiny tach" to check rpm. On the water for example while doing a 1 man launch if I leave the boat idling at the dock while parking the truck and then idle out of the no wake zone. Once Im out of the no wake zone and try to accelerate to get on plane then engine will sputter then die immediately and then it is impossible to get the engine to restart without waiting for approximately 10 mins.
    I'm not a pro like these other guys but when mine was doing that it had a fuel restriction (which caused the alarm to go off non stop). I had a kink in the fuel line...

  5. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #5
    How does your tiny tach compare to your boats tach? Float drop set properly? Did you use the nylon washer under the needle valve seat? Did you check the float bowls for warpage?

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    How does your tiny tach compare to your boats tach? Float drop set properly? Did you use the nylon washer under the needle valve seat? Did you check the float bowls for warpage?
    The boat tach does not read correctly which is why I put in the tiny tach.
    The float drop is parallel to the float bowl with about a 3/32 gap
    I did use the nylon washer under the needle valve seat
    I did not see any warps on the float bowls and I do not have any fuel leaks around the bowl seal.

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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by taterjones View Post
    I'm not a pro like these other guys but when mine was doing that it had a fuel restriction (which caused the alarm to go off non stop). I had a kink in the fuel line...
    I've never had an "alarm" go off, but to be honest I do not even know if the alarm works (or if this engine has one).

  8. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #8
    The nylon washer is not used on your model's carb. You can test your alarm by disconnecting any of the tan wires on you motor and turn the key to on and touch the motor side of the tan wire to engine ground. A horn should sound. Two of the easy ones are on the cylinder head for the over temp sensor. You may need to make a short jumper wire to insert into the motor sides connector.

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    The nylon washer is not used on your model's carb. You can test your alarm by disconnecting any of the tan wires on you motor and turn the key to on and touch the motor side of the tan wire to engine ground. A horn should sound. Two of the easy ones are on the cylinder head for the over temp sensor. You may need to make a short jumper wire to insert into the motor sides connector.
    Ok, i'll take the clear washer out on all 6 carbs. Is that washer not allowing enough fuel in the bowl?

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    #10
    You really should get a OMC service manual for this motor. Float drop and float level are two different things. Both determine how much fuel is in the carb. Float level is set with the carb inverted, gasket off, and is as you said parallel to the float body. Float drop is measured with the carb in normal position and should be 1 inch from the float body to the lower front edge of the float. Be careful don't put any pressure on the needle and seat when adjusting or you will ruin it. If you have any questions just ask. You should check out that warning horn system, you should get a short beep when you turn on the key.

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by 316jughead View Post
    You really should get a OMC service manual for this motor. Float drop and float level are two different things. Both determine how much fuel is in the carb. Float level is set with the carb inverted, gasket off, and is as you said parallel to the float body. Float drop is measured with the carb in normal position and should be 1 inch from the float body to the lower front edge of the float. Be careful don't put any pressure on the needle and seat when adjusting or you will ruin it. If you have any questions just ask. You should check out that warning horn system, you should get a short beep when you turn on the key.
    Like this?
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    #12
    [QUOTE=natchomamma;9709810]Like this?[/QU

    That's for the vapor separator tank, the carb is similar. Look up the carb settings. I don't want to sound mean, but if you don't know the difference between the VST and a Carb, you really need the manual or take the time to read one. JMHO
    Last edited by 316jughead; 10-04-2018 at 08:49 PM.

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    #13
    [QUOTE=316jughead;9709861]
    Quote Originally Posted by natchomamma View Post
    Like this?[/QU

    That's for the vapor separator tank, the carb is similar. Look up the carb settings. I don't want to sound mean, but if you don't know the difference between the VST and a Carb, you really need the manual or take the time to read one. JMHO

    Oops I grabbed the wrong pic. It was a long day. Mine looks like this, but I did use the nylon washer.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    #14
    [QUOTE=natchomamma;9710795]
    Quote Originally Posted by 316jughead View Post


    Oops I grabbed the wrong pic. It was a long day. Mine looks like this, but I did use the nylon washer.
    I've been there.

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    #15
    What is the idle rpm in gear in the water boat unrestrained? I like around 750 to 800, you should have the adjustable idle orifices, set them to 5&1/2 turns out, and go from there. Out is richer and should increase the rpm. After adjusting the orifices, take off and run the boat for a few minutes, 3500 or more. Then shut down and see what the idle rpm is, this balances out the carbs. Only do 1/8 turns at a time and test. Look on the roller that opens the carbs, there should be a clear or yellowing plastic sleeve over a smaller black roller. This is very important, the timing must start to advance and the carbs start to open at exactly the same time, follow your manual. Read up on the QuikStart and verify that it's working. If it's working and the motor takes a long time before it idles down, you probably have thermostat problems. These motors have to be up to temp for good idle and overall running.
    Last edited by 316jughead; 10-06-2018 at 08:20 AM.

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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by 316jughead View Post
    What is the idle rpm in gear in the water boat unrestrained? I like around 750 to 800, you should have the adjustable idle orifices, set them to 5&1/2 turns out, and go from there. Out is richer and should increase the rpm. After adjusting the orifices, take off and run the boat for a few minutes, 3500 or more. Then shut down and see what the idle rpm is, this balances out the carbs. Only do 1/8 turns at a time and test. Look on the roller that opens the carbs, there should be a clear or yellowing plastic sleeve over a smaller black roller. This is very important, the timing must start to advance and the carbs start to open at exactly the same time, follow your manual. Read up on the QuikStart and verify that it's working. If it's working and the motor takes a long time before it idles down, you probably have thermostat problems. These motors have to be up to temp for good idle and overall running.
    Thanks. I'll check the in water idle next time I'm out. While working on the boat I did notice that "pulse" hose was kinked going to the fuel pump. Im using this pump for my engine https://www.maxrules.com/fixomc-no-oil-vro.php
    Not sure if this may be the cause of my symptoms too....

  17. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #17
    this is the one you need # 600-156-01 that is the one needed for your motor. Yes the pulse hose being kinked would do that.

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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    this is the one you need # 600-156-01 that is the one needed for your motor. Yes the pulse hose being kinked would do that.
    Thanks the one I have.

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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    The nylon washer is not used on your model's carb. You can test your alarm by disconnecting any of the tan wires on you motor and turn the key to on and touch the motor side of the tan wire to engine ground. A horn should sound. Two of the easy ones are on the cylinder head for the over temp sensor. You may need to make a short jumper wire to insert into the motor sides connector.
    I checked and verified that the "alarm" is functional. I've never had a situation when that alarm has come on.

  20. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #20
    At least you now know the alarm works, you posted in #7 you didn't even know if the alarm worked.

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