FlowRite remote drain install ... TR186 splash well

[TiggerFishin]

FlowRite Remote Drain Plug .... Help, just installed (partially) a remote drain in my TR186, Plug end installed without issue. I drilled the new actuator 1 3/4" dia hole high on the left side of my splash well, and found out the fiberglass at this location to be 1 1/4 -- 1 1/2 thick (after the fact). The actuator can not be installed in that thick of a wall.

Does anyone know if FlowRite offers a deep wall actuator, I've sent their customer service a note, wait for their reply. All my searching has not found anything. Else it looks like I plug the hone and relocate or build some kind of extensions on the back side of the stock actuator.

Any thoughts?

[doyce]

I have a TR-20. I put the actuator in my splashwell also. I took a Dremil and thinned out the backside enough and wide enough for the switch to work properly. Haven’t had any issues. Works great.

[milehighbass]

That's what I had to do on my 2000 TR 21.

[TiggerFishin]

I've discussed this issue with FlowRite and they do not offer a thick wall installation extension. They recommend grinding the back (inside) of the mounting area as has been suggested by others. The contact at FlowRiteis is providing me with 2 pair of the metal mounting brackets on the back side of the actuator. I intend take them and see if I can extend the depth of the connection by about 3/4", so I don't have to grind anymore fiberglass than I have already. I'll post pics of this modification for other to see what I have done if it works as expected.

[TiggerFishin]

I got the extra metal bracket from FlowRite the next day and have fabricated them for thick wall installation. I was supprised to find the brackets are made from brass not plated steel .... I had to brase, not weld the assembly, I don't have the correct torch to do this but I was able to edge braze the pieced .... looks messy, but it was strong. Only problem is that when you get it hot enough to braze, you remove the temper/strenght of the metal. All works as expected, but at open and close I can feel the flex of the metal brackets. I intend to make these same brackets from steel soon to address the flex/future failure of the brass. Other than the flexing of the soft brass this works well on a thick wall installation.

Hooping this helps someone.
.

[BassStriker]

I would think you could fabricate some new brackets fairly easy out of steel as well. I'm surprised that flowrite wouldnt add the option of oversized brackets for the guys that run into the deep side walls. I went with a small one and installed it in my battery compartment. I have really liked the drain plug since I installed it.

[bassin365]

I have a TR-20. I put the actuator in my splashwell also. I took a Dremil and thinned out the backside enough and wide enough for the switch to work properly. Haven’t had any issues. Works great.

This is what I did when I installed mine, works fine.

[samluke36]

Boat.....Splash well......1 1/5 inch hole. I'm amazed that anyone (including design engineers) thought those things where compatible. I would want the actuator in a dry place that wasn't easily tampered with. I don't need a giant hole in my boat obviously and I don't need something permanently installed when it may break at some point and the company goes out of business. Needs to be in a place I look everytime I launch and pull the boat out. Easily accessed from inside the boat.

[BassStriker]

Boat.....Splash well......1 1/5 inch hole. I'm amazed that anyone (including design engineers) thought those things where compatible. I would want the actuator in a dry place that wasn't easily tampered with. I don't need a giant hole in my boat obviously and I don't need something permanently installed when it may break at some point and the company goes out of business. Needs to be in a place I look everytime I launch and pull the boat out. Easily accessed from inside the boat.

I did the same thing just with it vertical. I think I followed a previous post of your idea. Very good idea for the install.

[TiggerFishin]

I fabricated new steel brackets and they work just fine. I drilled the hole high in the splash well so any backwash shouldn't have enough time to leak past the actuator. I would have considered mounting under the bilge lid if I had known the thickness of the area I wanted to mount to .... here is a pic of the new brackets I made from 1/8" x 3/4 steel bar.

[Fishfreq]

I have a TR-20. I put the actuator in my splashwell also. I took a Dremil and thinned out the backside enough and wide enough for the switch to work properly. Haven’t had any issues. Works great.

I'm doing this mod soon on my TR-20 as well Doyce. How thin did you have to grind it down to make it clear? Any chance that this weakens the area, as I'm guessing there's a reason it's so thick there, right? Splashwell adds stiffness to transom? Was there any other place it could be mounted? Is the cable long enough to make it to somewhere near the shifter, like that flat gel coat just to the right of the driver's seat? 6 foot cable could be close...?