Just checked all plug wire at 7/16” gap and had good fire on all 6.
Just checked all plug wire at 7/16” gap and had good fire on all 6.
Good job! Well, with all six sparking and jumping a 7/16 gap on the tester we may have an intermittent ignition problem. Did you check all of the things I mentioned in a previous post? We may not be able to rule out a fuel problem, but with the motor running good to the first fishing spot and then having a problem is more consistent with the beginning of an ignition problem. If it does it again or still won't run in the water, try the primer to see if more fuel helps, if not, you should also unplug the shift switch. Sometimes if I have a problem with no change in the way the motor runs at idle, when pulling one plug wire at a time, I pull one and leave it off and then pull the others one at a time and look for a change.
**update**just replaced the Vro pump tonight and took it to the lake. Boat cranks and idles fine, but still bogs and stalls out when go to give throttle to get on plane. I pushed the choke and got to to finally get on plane. Once it is out of the hole is runs great. Should I try a new set of plugs, or should I check something else?
Any ideas??
following this closely
Everything that I can think of that can be wrong is a fuel delivery issue. Going to check all connections and lines from tank to motor for a leak.
Did you check and do all of the things I posted earlier?
I pulled the switch off and it is not sticking. I have not taken it a loose on top yet. Plan to do this when I get back to the water. I did find that my oil line at the primer bulb was loose and I had been getting oil into my compartment. I put another clamp on the hose and now it is secure. Hoping this may have been the issue, allowing a little air into the system. 🤞🤞🤞
I have had the motor to 2 shops. We have replaced power pack, rectifier(?), plug wires, new vro pump. Timing has been adjusted.
It will crank up, idle and run just fine on the first run. After stopping to fish for a while and crank to go to next spot, it will crank and idle fine but still wants to die when giving the throttle. I can push in on the choke and it will eventually get on plan and run fine.
Still trying to figure out what could be the issue.
Set all of your idle jets to closed but be gentle when seating them you don't want to damage the seat. Once seated back them out 6 full turns CCW and see how it comes out of the hole you may need to go one more turn.
Do you have a diagram of where the idle jets are located? Thanks for all the help.
.Originally Posted by jcfelder
Not of your exact carbs but this picture is of a 1992 carb it has fixed orifices. The orifice circled in blue is where your idle jet will be th ae orifice will be missing and there will be hole in the carb body. If you look closely you'll see what looks like an Allen head screw but it is not it is a Penta Lobe screw. You'll need the bit for that to make the adjustment.
Presten.jpg
Now I think I have messed up. I am pretty sure I screwed the needle valve in and back it out 6 turns. I went to the lake and ran it. Of course it is still stalling when giving it throttle. I backed the needle valve back out to 9 turns on each carb. Motor seamed to idle better. Just wondering how to set the needle valve back to where it needs to be. I see that the low speed orifice will be a brass screw.
Thanks for your help.
You need to make sure every thing is clean, clear and functional on your motor before tweaking anything. My suggestion was for a correctly running motor.
It is running, I still have to choke it to get on plane once on plane it runs great. Didn’t know if there were a certain amount of turns that the needle valve needed to be set at. I had it at 6 but then turned it back to 9 and it seams to idle smoother with out sneezing.
Think I may have found the issue. The main diaphragm must have a small hole and catching air. I have gotten a new one (part #:0331307). Is there anything I need to be careful doing when putting this in?
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