I like the idle to be 750 to 800 rpm, with the boat in the water, unrestrained, and in forward gear, you may need to adjust the idle orifices to 6 turns out to richen the idle. Make sure that the timing starts to advance and the carbs start to open at exactly the same time. This should cure that slight stumble.
I fished this morning, boat ran fine to First spot that we fished. After fishing several hours, cranked up to go to next place, boat just dies when go to give it throttle. Very frustrated right now.
Are you keeping those exhaust relief holes on the back of the motor out of the water, motor level while at idle, until you trim down to take off? If so, will it take throttle out of gear? If not, I would check the timing and throttle linkage, make sure that the timing is advancing and that the carbs are opening, of course also at the exact same time. If that looks OK, I would test for spark on all cylinders, if you don't have a good way to do that you might unplug the shift interrupter switch and see if that makes a difference. The switch is on the shift cable linkage on the motor, it has a black button on it. This switch kills one bank of cylinders on a difficult shift, the button sometimes sticks. Follow the wire up to the top of the motor to find the plug. It's OK to run the motor with this switch unplugged, just make sure that QuikStart is off and the motor has idled down before shifting.
Boat idles fine, until you put it in gear and have any resistance on it. It will run on regular flush muff out of the water (put in gear and rev slightly with no problem).
Was going to do a compression test on all cylinders.
That's a good idea. Sounds like your not running on all cylinders, on the muffs with no back pressure it will run. but in the water with back pressure it will not. It's a clue that you have a spark problem. Hopefully it's not a compression problem.
Did a compression test.
Top left-100
Top right-100
Middle left-100
Middle Right-100
Bottom left-93
Bottom right-93
Took bowls back off and apart to check everything. I did not have the high speed jets in the 2 bottom carb bowls screwed in enough and were touching the drain plug. Hope this was my issue and it will run correct.
Will let you know when i get back to the water to run it.
Thanks again!
Comp numbers are good, yep the two high speed orifices not fully seated will do that.
Yes, let us all hope the loose jets was the problem, it could be. Those ignition parts are expensive.
Well bad news. Got to the lake and it is still doing the same thing. What will be my next thing to check? Powerpack?
Next test for spark on all cylinders, how it's sparking will give us clues on what to check.
How is the best way to do this? I pulled each plug wire off the plug while it was idling. Each plug was popping and sparking from the plug to plug wire when it was close.
The best way is with an adjustable spark tester, the spark should jump a 7/16 gap at cranking speeds with the plugs in.
Should I take all the plug wires off all the plugs, so that the motor will not crank when testing each wire?
The best is have a spark tester that you can connect all the plug wires on. If you disconnect the plug wires make sure that they are far enough from the motor to not jump to ground.Originally Posted by jcfelder
One thought, when you rebuilt the carbs did you install the white nylon washer under the brass needle seat? I you did you need to remove it as it isn't used on your motor.
That sounds like you have spark, When you removed each plug wire was there any difference in the way the motor ran? It should have died down some.
ChampioNman—I did not put the white nylon washer on mine.
When I pulled each plug wire off while it was running, I did not hear a difference in the way it was running. Which I thought was strange.
I bought a single spark tester today. Planning to test spark hopefully tomorrow.
Could it also be the vro pump going out?
Have you tried pushing in on the key to activate the primer, if so what was the result?
I did not push it the other day at the lake.
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