Should the screws in the attached pictures tighten all the way tight? They hold the lift assist shock in the frame. I lost one yesterday, so I got a replacement today and can't get them to snug up and tighten.
Should the screws in the attached pictures tighten all the way tight? They hold the lift assist shock in the frame. I lost one yesterday, so I got a replacement today and can't get them to snug up and tighten.
Yes I believe they do.... You may have to hold one while tightening the other.
Wrong screw. They both should be #3 Phillips head and both be tight.
2015 189 trx
Need a clarification as to "can't get them to snug up and tighten"
Is the pivot shaft just turning ? or are the bolts not going in as far ?
Hard for me to tell from the picture but the hex head does not look to be in as far as the phillips. It could be bottomed out.. Are they the same length ? Thread count, etc IMO the type of drive is not the issue.. More the dimensions and thread count
When I got a replacement I could only find a hex head. But it is the exact same size. 1/4-20 3/4". Only difference is it is a hex head. I have tried holding one with tightening the other and it still won't tighten. I am not sure if the sleeves on the inside where the lift assist ram is are independent of each other and I need to hold each of them with a pair of pliers while tightening each screw.
I'll check mine later if you don't get it figured out or someone else comes along.
Best I recall it was a single piece. And it would tighten up while holding the other end.
Could it be stripped ?
I checked them this morning and I think the sleeve is a one piece. It could very well be stripped. When I found it, I was out on the water and the one screw was bent. The bouncing and the rocking could have easily stripped the inside sleeve. I may not be thinking about this correctly but wouldn't it have to rotate to a point, in order to let the trolling motor up and down. Or should the arm of the lift assist cylinder rotate around the sleeve.
On a completely different subject, can someone give me an idea of the minimum tools they take with them out on the water. My DA had nothing the other afternoon when this happened so I had to come in. I was thinking a flat and phillips screwdriver, a crescent wrench and a pair of pliers. Anything else?
The actual pivot pin once both screws are tight should not turn.. the two plastic spacer sleeves on either side of the piston mount will turn. The piston mount (T) bracket does swivel around the pivot pin to allow for raising up and down.
I carry a lot--- but I also fish border lakes--- Tex. Mex. and don't want to get stranded.
I would at least add a small socket set -- zip ties and electrical tape
Thanks. So if it is stripped do you think it could be re-tapped? I might try to re-tap it while I wait to order a replacement from Minn Kota.
I would -- First I would check the depth of current hole..might get to clean threads with a longer bolt. then Loctite the heck out of it.
Thanks, it's a shame you live in Texas. I was thinking the same thing to the point I went out a few minutes ago and bought a big bottle of Loctite..
just glad I don't reside at Huntsville Tx.
You sure are going to a lot of trouble for around $5.00 worth of parts. Use the correct MinnKota parts and install correctly.
John
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. I can't see that it matters where you bought the screw..If the bracket was striped prior to putting the non MK replacement in..
It doesn't, except that it's obvious he didn't purchase the counter sunk Phillips 1/4 x 20 that the pin takes. He says it's the same length, and if it is since it's not countersunk, he is loosing the thickness of the mount arm when he tries to tighten. It might be stripped, or the bolt he's using may not be going deep enough into the pin to catch enough threads. For about $5.00 he could get the pin with the correct screws that would already have the locktite on them.
John
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Unless my eyes are deceiving me and keelshot is not telling the truth.
THE ONLY difference in the MK screw he removed and the one he purchased to replace it is the drive !!
The MK screw is a phillips--- the one he bought is a hex head.
They are BOTH COUNTER sunk 1/4-20-3/4
When I got a replacement I could only find a hex head. But it is the exact same size. 1/4-20 3/4".Only difference is it is a hex head.
[QUOTE=fishnfireman;9670929
They are BOTH COUNTER sunk 1/4-20-3/4 [/QUOTE]
Honestly can't tell from the picture if it's countersunk. I've worked around this for a long time and don't remember seeing a countersunk, hex head bolt. I would think that would be a harder bolt to find -- but with the internet these days, who knows. Just seems like a lot of trouble to go through to keep from buying the "correct" items, especially when the items it is designed to use are that inexpensive.
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Just for clarification, everyone keeps calling the replacement bolt used a hex head, it is not a hex head bolt. It is a socket head bolt. It takes an allen wrench for tightening.
If you want to get real technical I believe it's a flat head socket cap screw (FIRST photo of OP)--- Many times referred to as a hex head because it takes an Allen wrench.
Anyway a lot of these debates/debacles could be avoided if everyone would at least read all the posts. especially if your going to question someone.A hex key, Allen key or Allen wrench is a tool used to drive bolts and screws with hexagonal sockets in their heads. The Allen name is a registered trademark,
Don't jump at your first assumption. You might miss something !!
My screen doesn't show what type of screw he replaced it with (I was going by others calling it a "hex head" which is bolt head), however, if it is an Allen head (or even torx head) screw it could well be a tapered screw.
BTW, the original screw is 1/4 - 20 x 1/2 --- maybe that .25" is keeping it from tightening all the way. Again, a reason for spending the $ .50 for the correct screw.
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