Lets talk about Triton"Chine Walk myth"...and what its really doing :)

[lester lewis]

Iam just glad i have a boat that will go 60+pmh. Love my triton

[mike curtis]

Guys don't for get, that alot of speed in Bass Boats are lost with loose steering tubes and slop in the hydrulic clamps and nuts on the engine. Keep that stuff tite. Also, if your hole shot is bad and and your running one of our Furys..put some PVS plugs in two of the holes and you will see a better hole shot. Also of you are running a Verado 6 or 4 cly remember one thing prop-wise. If the prop slips to much in the hole shot and and the RPM exceeds 2500 with-in 2-3 seconds, u just put the brakes on the Super Charger. If the engine revs up too quick, its percieved calibration map will shut the boost down to save the engine. Put the soild PVS plug in Verados and time your hole shot with a stop watch and you will be suprized. Even though the engine doesn't sound like its "screaming". it is now pushing HP as the boost it now higher and the hole shot will increase pretty good. Check it out and see. C-Ya MC

[drgrammer]

Mike,

I'm running a 2005 21X / 250 ProXS w/ a 26 Fury. My hole shot has suffered from the 25 Tempest+. What size PVS plus should I install to help the Fury on hole shot. It did not come with any and the dealer said they were not used/needed on the Fury.

[Cabela10]

I had a 225 ProXS with a 24p Tempest+ worked prop with solid PVS plugs. Holeshot was freaking amazing and top speed was around 70-72mph.

[mittenbass]

Thought I would throw this into the mix as this guy is driving a Triton...kinda gives you a feel for what the small steering wheel inputs look like

vids :: Learn to handle a bassboat that chine walks. Produced by SmallMouthGuy (Jim Maggart) & co. video by bigharry_2006 - Photobucket

[triton2010]

good video

[backlash75]

Good video. I'm picking up my Triton 19X2 tomorrow. This will be my first Triton so this will be something i'll have to learn. I noticed he talked about his "pucker factor". I'm sure i'll have one too until i get confortable with the new ride. I'm moving from a 18.5' ProCraft with a 150 Opti to the 19X2 with a 225 Pro XS so it'll be an all new learning experience. Can't wait.

[dazy_cutter_45]

could watch it everyday just for the tune. Excellent taste in music and boats

[Triton3940]

Hi Mike!
Larry Byrd here. Think you can teach these guys to drive thru it? Better yet to feel it in they'er rear before they see it with they're eyes?
Looking for suggestions on getting the most out of the new one. Got any new tricks? This is the new setup:

Well I 've been running the TR models since 1998 and have ran fixed jackplates, hydraulic jackplates (Atlas & Bob's) and now I'm setting up a new 2013. Been priledged to own at least one of each of the year models.
Been seeing some pretty neat setups and speeds in this forum and figured I'd open my ears and let fellow Trition owners be a part in the setup of this years Demo boat. I'll give the fixed equipment and loads and you give me the suggestions.
I'll post the feedback of numbers for light, medium and heavy loads conditions.
Most setups don't list electronics and trolling motor, but everthing adds weight and changes ride characteristics. Electronics listed add approximately 37-lbs with all of the wiring.

2013 TR21 HP
250 Pro XS - Torque Master
10" Atlas Hydraulic Plate
1 - Group 31 (Cranking) / 1- Group 29 (trolling) Starboard Side
2 - Group 29 (Trolling) Port Side
2 - 8-ft Blade Power Poles (Pumps mounted center rear)
4 - Bank Pro Charging Systems Charger
Rod Holders - Port & Starboard
Motorguide Digital 109, Foot Control, 50" Shaft

Lowrance Electronics:
Console: 12" GEN2 Touch
Bow: 2 - 9" GEN2 Touch
Starboard Rod Box: Sonic Hub, Ethernet Expansion Port, XM/Sirus Interface

[mike curtis]

Listen Guys who run Fury props...its needs at least 1 to 2 PVS plugs installed into the propeller...leave one or 2 out ..I would use the PVS plug with the largest hole in it...prop math is this:: when you ramp up the demand(throttle) the exhaust blast blows out the side of the prop and rolls out along the tip of the propeller to cavitate it so the engine can get into its power band quicker(beginning at 2200rpm) but too quick is too much and the engine will not have enough leverage to push the boat up to 27mph to get the nose down @ 3500 RPM/40mph...so we have to find the "sweet spot" on how much slip we want to give the prop to trick the engine to the power band...it is trial and error though....one note to remember, a Fury is kind of like a Tempest thats been blue printed and balanced & blades thinned, so it will ramp up quicker than a Tempest with "all of the PVS plugs installed"....so keep that in mind..if you take a Fury and install all 3 PVS plug into it and take a stop watch and do some dead stop to wide open throttle launches and then pull all of the out and repeat the test, you will quickly see that the hole shot has suffered with the plugs out....install all three and try it, then pull just one out...you will see that leaving 1 to 2 PVS plugs in Fury prop will be better than none...especially on a Tourny ready boat...now if you are talking about a light drag bass boat style set up, then by all means pull them all out, just remember, a Bass boat set up for a B.A.S.S or other Tournament contests, will make the boat weigh in about 1000 lbs heavier than one with just a engine battery,half the fuel load one person, and no gear...Thats alot of relief for the engine.....Guys, normal Tourny Bass Boats weigh about 2500-3000 lbs...yea, heavy...considering that Earl's Tunnel Race boats with V-6 Mercs that I took care of only had to weigh in at 1050lbs Earl included(yea, the boats and Earl was a little lighter then and thats why he ran over 125mph..sorry Earl, you and I have gained some weight in our old age LOL)...also,Roark Summerford's Merc v-6 powered STV Tunnel that I won the Super Stock 3 championship with ran 127mph only weighed 1570 with me included....the Optimax's today do alot of work to get a 2500 lbs plus bass boat to move past 70...ALOT, along with no small credit to boat designs...keep your eye on the ball and focus on one thing at a time, results will happen....Talk to you soon, Mike Curtis/Product Application Engineer/Mercury Marine

[springchiken]

hey mike, im running a 2006 tr196 200 opti with an 8 in cmc please help with set up?

[IndianOutlaw!]

hey mike, im running a 2006 tr196 200 opti with an 8 in cmc please help with set up?

2.5-3 inch below the pad and a 26 tempest

[usmcvetTR-21]

driving through chime walk really isn't a complicated thing, it took e a few tanks of gas to master it lol but from my experience just remember when you see the boat first start to slightly tilt to the side, your boat will almost always tilt to one side first "the heavier side", mine is to the right tr21, my dads tr22 tilts to the left and my grandfathers tilts to the right so every boat is different because of gear, weight of driver, batteries etc... just steer against it with a slight jerk "just enough to put tension on the wheel in most cases" in the opposite direction of tilt, it is important that you learn to spot this quickly, in most high performance boats if you don't catch it right when it starts "within 10-15 seconds" its gets harder to stop walking the more it rocks side to side. if anyone has any questions about it feel free to send me a message. I have had to jerk from the 12 o'clock position on the steering wheel to 9 or 10 o'clock hard a few times when running in the mid to upper 70's but I do not recommended it unless you really know your boat and personal limits.

[PotomacBill]

Mike,

If you have the time would you please post the setup info for the below 19' boats?

PotomacBill

[l8tapex]

Hey Mike glad your able to assist.


I’m close friend to Leonard Hughes. He spoke often to Roark and Chris Bush. He and Mr. Bents go back many years due to Mr. Hughes own NHRA funny cars. I've had him Q&A Roark for me while he was on the phone with him. I owned those Allison’s XB2002; Bullet etc. (Also heard the stories of tying up molds with Roark to reduce weight for a special boat for Mr. Hughes.)

I then went to Triton Boats for BASS Central in 2001.

Would you address the safety factor of the angle of the transom as compared to boats that or "racer" by design. We took the neg degrees of the TR20 and made the angle the same as the afore mention "race" models by re drilling the extension plate to compensate the inward angle by moving the bottom out a few deg. This basically enhanced the ability to get the boat up to a sport boat nose lift and perform better. (My friend actually GPS 87 mph with DC) model. That could be just a resin content or a 1st run on new mold.

I then had the Dettwieller JP. Out the box this TR20 was doing 83 MPH. Not bad considering the 200XP just came out also for the Race Challenge series. (Roark gave us the scoop on that).

Please explain the angle of lift in the current designs, the widening and deepening of the X series and its hull configuration. How can current owners maximize the lift and performance?

Maybe in another post explain the weight/ride/performance of the new designs especially with the composite to weight in newer boats of all makes.

I am interested as I am certified in advanced composite structure fabrication and repair (CF, Kevlar, FRG, Klegecel) so I would love to know more.

IMO, ( not worth much)

chine walk is an issue which can be eliminated if the height of the motor is raised. Most stock lower units still can’t go high enough. Even with bullet gear case you must at least get the motor high enough to lose water pressure then come back down. Steering should feel neutral .If you feel torque you must adjust higher or lower.The lower unit causes a drag that wants to pull the boat off the pad thereby getting that sway and side to side hull contact.

However, if you own a “tournament” bass boat it is designed for comfort and to have a very good fishing platform vs the “racer” designed boats.You may never get the max performance of a light weight step strake hull.


BTW this boat runs "above the pad".10"ext w/ 6" JP. Now has a 225HO running a 15" 30 pitch Bravo.

Glad to see you Mike, thanks for your knowledge!

[Georgianbay]

Hi guys, I have some set up issues. and terrible hole shot.

I ll give you the complete low down on the new boat.

I live north of Toronto On Georgian Bay Canada
I purchased my boat in Kentucky in Feb 2013 a 16 hour drive. It came with a 2009 Evenrude 225 e-tec with 55 hours on it. The boat is a 2003 TR 21 single console. Paid 22k for it. Put a new Power pole 11 on it, Lowrance Hds 10 with NEMA 2000 to engine and interlinked to front hds 5 with structure scan, new seats, windshield, tires, new cover, 4 big deep cell interstates, minkota 3 bank charger, all new live-well and bilge pumps, new wiring, stickers, new plugs an fuel filter minkota 101 fortrex.

When I first tested the boat it had 2 1/2 inch and one 1/4 inch plugs in the 26 pitch Tempest Plus. 13 second hole shot, one passenger 160 pounds Me at 225lbs and full tank of fuel, live wells empty. The prop shaft was around 4.7 inches below the pad. I was getting around 62mph with terrible chine. I raised the engine to 3 1/4 inches below the pad and had a 5 second hole shot and 73 mph live wells empty two passengers full tank about 5500 rpm's at wot and 3000 rpm's at launch.

I forgot I have a manual jack plate that has a 8.5 inch offset.

With the live wells full or half full it wont plane out with two guys and full gear. I tried keeping the engine height the same and pulling out one of the 1/2 inch plugs but didn't help. tried 2 of the 1/2 inch plugs and the boat cavitated really bad and still hole shot was bad and wouldn't plane out unless I had my buddy sit on the cooler.
My best wot was 73 at 5500 rpm's. Ideal for this engine is apparently 5750 to 5900 as red line is 6100.

My take off with 2 1/2 inch and one 1/4 inch plugs is 3000 rpm's and it holds there but wont plane out unless my bud is sitting on the cooler, full live wells and fuel.

I am wondering, should I take out all three plugs so the exhaust has some equilibrium to stop the cavitation and allow more air for rpm's to get up, or lower the engine or raise the engine.
I know that if i lower the engine the hole shot is worse.. I don't care if it goes 70 plus, just at this point want good hole shot with full load.


If anyone could email me that would be great, or if anyone knows of someone I can call even better.

Thanks in advance.

[Mark Weare]

Georgianbay,

That hull will perform best with approximately 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" below pad settings. Sounds like you may have the L2 1.71 gearcase yet, if so, the 26 is probably too big for your rig, you need a 25 balanced and blueprinted. Also, remove plugs from the prop to get the take off rpm up a little bit and help increase hole shot efficiency. This should raise rpm's, reduce chine walk and help overall performance. Also, given the big load you carry, look too at a Trophy prop to help give you stern lift, that may also benefit you.

Lastly, start a regular thread in the forum here and more guys will probably help chip in with some information.

[Georgianbay]

Georgianbay,

That hull will perform best with approximately 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" below pad settings. Sounds like you may have the L2 1.71 gearcase yet, if so, the 26 is probably too big for your rig, you need a 25 balanced and blueprinted. Also, remove plugs from the prop to get the take off rpm up a little bit and help increase hole shot efficiency. This should raise rpm's, reduce chine walk and help overall performance. Also, given the big load you carry, look too at a Trophy prop to help give you stern lift, that may also benefit you.

Lastly, start a regular thread in the forum here and more guys will probably help chip in with some information.

Hi Mark.

I am trying it today at 3 inches because of my water intake on that e tec. going to try with all plugs at 1/2 inch and possibly take them right out as you suggested. just worried about water pressure. I had it at 3.5 inches and was getting 73.1 mph but horrible hole shot loaded up.

Wish me luck.

I have posted this in the proper area and sorry for posting here guys.

Im a nub here and a previous off shore owner that had a 500 hps in it, these outboards are like riding a bicycle for the first time again LOL You can't beat the sound of an outboard screaming down the lake though !!

[TritonJohnny]

Mike,

I am new to Tritons and I love the one I have. I was hoping you could give some advise on a good base line setup for a tourney loaded boat that will almost always carry two people. I have only had it on the water a couple of times now but like to get all I can out of them.

2012 20XS with a 250 ProXs. 25p Fury. 10" manual jackplate and 2 power poles " In case weight makes a difference "..

Right now the hole shot seems fine. Gets up as fast or better than my Z7 loaded after I did a ton of work to it. The area I want the most help is chine walking. I know how to drive it and counter for it, but this boat seems to be a little harder to control so I end up running the trim down a touch to get bow back in the water and it runs straight. I can run it this way and get just under 70mph with no walking. But bump the trim up and go WOT it immediately starts walking and its hard to stop it. I would guess the motor height is stock and never been messed with from the factory settings. I have not measured it. I know that raising the engine height should actually help the walking, but where would you recommend I start? I can always go out and test it by raising a little at a time until I lose a little water pressure then drop it down a little, but having a starting point takes a lot less time.

Thanks for the help

Johnny

[thorp]

I am dealing with the same thing, same boat and would appreciate any help along the way.