Thread: Etech trim

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  1. Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Epsom New Hampshire
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    255
    #21
    Just a small update
    i bought a 1-1/4 crows foot. I was able to finagle a few turns I got it tighter than it was. It wasn’t really tight. I’ll give it a try this weekend and let you know if this fixed it.

  2. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Mattoon, IL
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    182
    #22
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    Yeah his Snap On budget is slightly higher than mine.
    Just for you!

    https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...3897706dcc93bf
    2000 STRATOS 20SS EXTREME
    2011 EVINRUDE ETEC 250 HO
    HELIX 10 AND 12 SI
    10' BLADES
    ULTREX/ I PILOT LINK
    HUMMINBIRD 360

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Mattoon, IL
    Posts
    182
    #23
    This one is even better free delivery!

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grand-Ra...FUbEwAodPxoBcQ
    Quote Originally Posted by NailerB View Post
    2000 STRATOS 20SS EXTREME
    2011 EVINRUDE ETEC 250 HO
    HELIX 10 AND 12 SI
    10' BLADES
    ULTREX/ I PILOT LINK
    HUMMINBIRD 360

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Epsom New Hampshire
    Posts
    255
    #24
    Update: used the boat today the trim bounce was much better. I tightened that nut the best I could with a crows foot. Thanks for the help every body
    Last edited by Gldjerkbaitnh; 10-15-2018 at 07:39 PM. Reason: Spelling

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    528
    #25
    Quote Originally Posted by mactlman View Post
    mine has done it since new--tightened nut to specs and bleed out the hydraulics and nothing changed? lower off top ram before underway and it will not do it
    Check to see if your tilt/trim fluid is full ... on my 2013 250HO, it's a black plastic cap right next to the starboard trim cylinder. Could be tight, I used a piece of cloth to wrap it and a pair of channel locks to loosen.

    First tilt the motor all the way up. Loosen the cap and trim down slowly. Some fluid should start to bleed out pretty soon as you start to trim down. If it comes down a ways into the trim ram and no fluid leaks out, you should get some and fill up. To fill up, trim up all the way until the motor stops. Then use a syringe to pump in tilt/trim fluid till it start to flow out. This will be messy, so have towels at the ready. Once it starts to leak, replace cap. Clean up and run the motor up and down a few times to bleed the system.
    Chris
    =====================================
    2004 Ranger 521VX, 2013 ETEC 250HO
    8" Atlas Hydro Plate, 25p Tempest+
    Hotfoot/ProTrim/4-bank Dual Pro
    2x Blade Series Power Poles
    Minn Kota Fortrex 112
    Lowrance HDS12 Carbon & Gen3
    =====================================

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Epsom New Hampshire
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    #26
    Thanks for the info. Will do!

  7. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    May 2004
    Location
    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
    Posts
    71,276
    #27
    When you remove the cap make sure the O ring inside the cap is intact. Instead of making all that mess, trim the motor down onto a block of wood under the skeg. Loosen the manual release valve on the left side about 4 turns. Trim the motor up for a 5 count (motor shouldn't go up) and then down for a 5 count do this 5 times and then tighten the valve. Trim up and slowly open the cap, and check fluid level. You can use a zip tie to check the level.

  8. Member
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    Oct 2013
    Location
    Epsom New Hampshire
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    255
    #28
    Thank you!!

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