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  1. #1
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    Johnson GT 150 De- Carbed, Shes Not Happy Now!

    Last time I was out , motor was bogging when I put it in gear, then would just pick up all the sudden which was frustrating to say the least, but it would start up just fine every time. Well, I was in garage and ran across a full can of BRP tuner that I had and decided to decarb, followed the directions and did it Friday. Ran it for 15mins, ( which it ran fine on the hose) sprayed it in, not letting it die til can was empty, then let it sit til Sat afternoon, started it up again, ran for 15 mins and changed all the plugs. Took out this morning, did not want to stay running, finally got it going, ran about a mile, when I shut it off it idled for a few seconds then just died. I fished for a bit then decided to head in, would start up, then just die, not slowly, just die.


    Only thing I did was change the fuel line from bulb connection to the engine, maybe a foot or so, ran the tuner, changed the plugs, now not happy at all. Bulb not staying real hard ( ordering one today, not expensive anyway, will be BRP) , thinking maybe its losing fuel pressure is why it is just dying, not slowly sputtering or bogging down , just dying. I am thinking some kind of fuel issue, but heck I dont know.


    Ideas, thoughts??

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #2
    Start with a model number that would be a good thought.

  3. Member
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    #3
    J150STLACA

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    #4
    Check the red lever on the primer solenoid, it should be pointing to the bottom of the solenoid. It's very easy to get turned to manual when removing the tuner.

  5. Member
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    #5
    I checked this just now 316, it is pointed to the bottom, never messed with or touched this before. Tried to insert image but could not

  6. Member
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    #6
    OK, lever is not the problem. Something to eliminate, check for voltage at the primer solenoid with the ignition key in the on position, you should have none. The primer bulb could be the problem. I would look at the timer base, it could be sticking and not advancing the timing. It shouldn't be a problem, but you might want to do a compression check. Spark plugs Champion QL77JC4 gapped at .030? So many different things can cause your problem, I'm just throwing out a few.

  7. Member
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    #7
    Timer base advancing for sure ( from what I can visually see) primer solenoid in right position, inline fuel filter is full and staying full so probably not the bulb after all.

    It will not start in neutral, I have to give it some gas then it starts at a high rev and just dies. I tried to pump bulb to stimulate and it just dies, not bogging down, just dies.

  8. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #8
    If you have a portable tank hook it up to the motor and give it a run with fresh fuel to eliminate the fuel supply from the boat.

  9. Member
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    #9
    Thanks for the tip Champ, I am contemplating taking it in anyway as I have had a weak trim/till issue for a long time and it has a leak on both seals, and it wont trim when under load so she is plowing thru the water so to speak right now and it needs attention

    There seems to be a fuel leak in the middle carb from what I can see. Carb job was done 7/2016, just looked it up, and they were leaking before, surprised it last only that long. Bogging was the prior issue, well as stated its not bogging anymore, just dying. I think I clogged something up when I ran the decarb, but the reason I ran it was last time I was out it was dying when I put it in gear, bogging out and it would just pick up all the sudden and go. I know the leaking fuel has got to be fixed period though.

    I ran 24 miles in it last month on an evening trip pretty much nonstop which I dont do much so this has just come up more or less.

  10. Natalie Gulbis tdt91's Avatar
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    #10
    Get the leaking fuel fixed first and then try a remote tank like Champ said if the leaky fuel wasn't the cause. Sure sounds like a fuel supply issue.
    2000 Javelin Renegade 20 DC.
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  11. Member
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    #11
    I'll give asking questions one more try. VRO connected? Does it smoke a lot when it does run? What brand of fuel hose did you use? If you used an off OEM hose, with an inner liner, check to see if the inner liner came loose when you pushed it on the fitting and is closing off the fuel flow.

  12. Member
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    #12
    VRO not connected, smokes like a chimney, auto parts house fuel line, but fuel filter is full of fuel.

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    #13
    What spark plugs did you install?
    David Patten
    Automotive and marine technician.

  14. Member
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    #14
    Champion QL77JC4

    Took her to the shop this morning, I want it fixed and am working nights right now, want to get out in the mornings on my weekday "fridays" when no one is out.

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    #15
    Sounds good, let us know what the problem was. I had a lot of fun fishing Texas, much better than Kansas.

  16. Member
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    #16
    Well, boatman called seems to be a problem with the cannon ( key switch) sticking which was causing the bendix to stay engaged, but I knew about that it was not a big deal. Anyway middle cylinder port side showing 15lbs, and water on the plug so he called and asked to pull the heads. I told him yes and he said gasket was blown in the middle and almost on the bottom, but cylinders not scored. Deflectors were clogged up too. So its getting new head gaskets, new deflectors, new cannon key switch and said then he would address carbs. Trim/till motor is worn out pretty much he told me so he is taking one off another engine that he will warranty for me he said. $1400. He said if carbs needed rebuild another $340. There is my christmas present guys I guess!

  17. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Steven H View Post
    Well, boatman called seems to be a problem with the cannon ( key switch) sticking which was causing the bendix to stay engaged, but I knew about that it was not a big deal. Anyway middle cylinder port side showing 15lbs, and water on the plug so he called and asked to pull the heads. I told him yes and he said gasket was blown in the middle and almost on the bottom, but cylinders not scored. Deflectors were clogged up too. So its getting new head gaskets, new deflectors, new cannon key switch and said then he would address carbs. Trim/till motor is worn out pretty much he told me so he is taking one off another engine that he will warranty for me he said. $1400. He said if carbs needed rebuild another $340. There is my christmas present guys I guess!
    Wow!!!! $1740 to replace head gaskets/deflectors and R-R 3 carbs.......and hang a used T-T motor. Head gaskets set $50/deflectors $30/Key switch $50/carb kits $40...$200 or so in parts and $1540 labor,,,for that I would have him replace T-T with a new motor/replace thermostats/new water pump and lower oil change as well...

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

  18. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #18
    Do it yourself and save $$$$$$$$$$ Get a manual and just follow it. Do it all in one afternoon.

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

  19. Member
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    #19
    So I got her back Friday after guy promised it to me 3x and kept coming up with excuses. Took it out ran 12 miles did just fine. Fished for couple of hours and headed back. About a mile in...motor starts losing power and surging in and out, I layed back on the throttle and it ran fine under a reduced load if you will. Got mile from ramp and turned it off to fish one more spot. Cranked it back up, ran like a scalded dog, then about a mile in started surging again. Called the mechanic and told him its not right, he thinks coil may be heating up and giving out, hell I dont know. I researched a lot and think it may be a weak fuel pump. BTW< what should compression readings be on this 29yr old lady? Very upset that I worked my tail off doing side jobs to give to this mechanic and its still not right, I wanted to cry!!


    Any feedback appreciated.

  20. Member
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    #20
    The saga continues, took it back he told me he let it warm up and run in the tank, full throttle for 10 mins 2x and it was not losing power. Told me he saw a plug that barely plugged in was only thing he could see wrong. Took it out, same issue. Starts up, will pop up on plane then after .5 mile or so starts losing power, not bogging, but surging up and down it seems. Took it back to him Friday and he mentioned anti siphon valve on tank. I can easily remove seats and did and he took a look and saw a brass fitting and told me there is not one on that brass fitting, only an aluminum one so ruled that out. Ran fresh fuel line from tank to the water separator, then from the separator to the bulb, put a new brp bulb in and the line to the motor was replaced when he did the carbs. Now he pumped it and was not getting real hard so he took separator filter off and filled it with gas and still did not seem like he was happy with the pressure it was getting, neither was I. Well took it out, same issue. Is the separator apparatus bad? Should I bypass it and check maybe, or is there a fuel pump issue? He initially mentioned coil getting hot and cutting out, it aint getting that hot after running only a .5 mile. I am stumped. I just dont think its electrical but I really need some advice. My next step is to see if he will meet me and water test it I guess. He seems to be focused on his next marlboro more than anything !!!

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