That one you linked won't work. Has to be a 6 inch setback to work with those clamps it has. Its always something lol. I would post a wanted add but I am broke this week. Your money talks statement, while true, is somewhat irrelevant this week hahaha.
Going to do what I said and wait till the money comes then find a useable solution. I may just go ahead and redrill the transom. Not sure yet.
Totally agree. As I have stated before I don't care what it looks like. I only care how it works. Safety is more important than pretty. However, I am a DIY guy. If I can do it myself rather than spend money I most likely will do it myself. I don't need the jack plate to be adjustable at all. Its sole function is to allow the engine to be mounted without drilling the transom. I fail to see where my current level of engineering knowledge is insufficient to complete this task. Please, tell me what the failure point would be. I figure 6061 t6 at 45,000 psi yield strength would more than sufficient to support a 312lb engine that is rated at 115 hp. Since they use it as structural support in buildings. If needed I can find stronger material. Would be steel to be stronger but I suppose if needed I can go that route. I just fail to see WHY.Originally Posted by billnorman1
Last edited by Noassumptionsplease.; 09-16-2018 at 11:12 AM.
I'm not being a smart arse I'm seriously asking what the failure point would be and why. Need to wrap my mind around the facts on this. Thanks.
Is the aluminum stronger than the transom? I am leaning towards yes, but the amount of flex must considered as well. I still think the transom is weaker than 45,000 psi yeild strength. Am I wrong in my thinking? I have no way to measure it. It just seems that 34 yo plywood and glass composite is going to be weaker than the aluminum channel I linked. This should in theory make the transom the failure point not the aluminum. Unless I am wrong. I have been before lol.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Jack-Plate-JP...anner=1&_rdt=1
This is the type of jack plate I need. May go this route when I get the money. Still wondering about the transom clamps on the engine and if I can eliminate them or not. Any info would be helpful.
Dude, with all due respect we do not need to know every little detail of what you are doing. That was not meant as a bash, just some constructive criticism.
Well I am now being pressed to get done stripping the parts boat and get it gone. So I think I'm just going to measure carefully and drill the transom for the Mercury 1150 so I can go ahead and get it mounted. I can always drill out the original holes later if needed as I am just plugging them with dowel pins and resin. A jack plate would be nice but its not necessary so I'm just going to get with it the old fashioned way. Thanks for the advise.
What is a Mercury 1150?
1977 Mercury 1150 115 hp. Tower of power. Strait 6 mercury. It has its own unique transom bolt pattern and transom clamps at the top. This is why I'm having all this headache lol. But I have it so I have to use it. At least that's what the budget is saying haha.
As far as the level of detail is concerned. Some people like more detail. You obviously do not. That's That's your opinion. However, and this is not meant as a bash, you can only speak for yourself brother. Sorry if it annoys you. But I am me, that's how I roll, and I doubt I will change much any time soon lol.
Where I am today.
I said I would post pics. Here they are.
Amazing what time and a little work will do. While I have no intention of putting it back to original, I will make it decent looking overall. Not a boat to brag about, but one to use and not be worried about little things all the time.
How it will look when I get hinges and start reassembly.
Still have a bit of sanding and scraping to do on the decks and a bit more glass work on the hatches before I cover them. But as you can see I have done a lot with very little.
Looking good. Sometimes to much info day after day might turn some folks off that otherwise could offer suggestions. I am not there yet but close. Keep up the good work.
Haha. No worries brother. I'll try to tone it down a bit. Thanks for the encouragement.
Mom came up with some vinyl material so were going to attempt to recover the original driver seat that survived.
This is the engine mounting. This is my issue that I DO need help with. Thanks.
Lower unit is in my shop.
You may not be able to use a jackplate with that model motor as I now see from your photographs. The reason I suggested it was the centerline of the prop shaft is sometimes desirable to be from 3 to 4 inches from an imaginary line drawn on the bottom of the pad parallel with the boat centerline.
If not firmly and safely installed, a motor does not mind falling off a transom as many have found with clamped down motors. Re-drilling is probably your best option.
You have a large task in progress, and I don't see how any amount of posting will hurt this website. I wish some better equipped experts, of which there are many, would chime in.
Thanks Bill. I kinda figured that was going to be the case. I was a really good idea though. Got me rite down the rabbit hole lol.
Well I got a call this morning to come back to work so 7am tomorrow back gainfully employed. This project should start progressing a lot sooner now. Lol.
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