When I ready to bleed tje brakes on my 96 Ranger Trail trailer will it pull the fluid right threw the solenoid or do I haveto hook it up to power souce somehow to disengage the solenpoid?
When I ready to bleed tje brakes on my 96 Ranger Trail trailer will it pull the fluid right threw the solenoid or do I haveto hook it up to power souce somehow to disengage the solenpoid?
You do not need to hook up the power to bleed the brakes. Be sure to lower the tonge of the trailer so the air will run up hill for best results.
Dan Burnette - Marietta, GA
Triton 18TRX - 200 HO G2
I tried the lowering the tongue technique on my Procraft's trailer but it still has air. It bangs hard when I stop and pull off now.
Troll lightly and carry a big flippin stick!!!
Air in the lines is a possible cause of that, but not the only one. Did you bleed until there were no bubbles in the jar?
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
I did, but still have that clunking noise when stopping and going.
Troll lightly and carry a big flippin stick!!!
I wouldn't lower the tongue, because then any air in there is forced into the lines if the reservoir gets low. Think about it, the reservoir on your vehicles is higher than all the brake calipers. As long as you keep the reservoir topped off, you just need to keep forcing fluid into the calipers till they run clean. Plus you want to bleed the farthest one first, then the next farthest one, and so on. If the 'T' that splits the lines is towards the left side of the axle(s) then the right rear will the first, and logic would dictate the right front (based on the distance), but in this instance it'd be the left rear, FOLLOWED by the right front., then finally the left front Of course if the 'T' is at the right side of the axle(s) you'd reverse that procedure.
Back to the bleeding....
Several ways to do that. You can keep pumping the tongue. You can get a hand bleeder and connect to the caliper that'll pull fresh fluid from the reservoir. Or you can get a pressure bleeder and try to get a tight seal on the reservoir and force it from that end to the calipers. I use a pressure bleeder on my vehicles, but it's pretty much useless on the boat because you can't get a tight seal on top of that reservoir. I get a bit of clunk sometimes, (depending on how hard I accelerate) but I know the brakes are working.
The KEY is to make sure the trailer is level, and the reservoir never gets more than half empty.
Later,
Dixie Chicken
12 Nitro Z9 DC, 250 Opti w/SmartCraft Gauges
Bobs 12"
NightFishion HD8 rubrail, W/Nav Lights
Oznium Red/Blue 10mm/6mm LED Bolts
4-Channel Wireless Lighting Controller
Carbon 12's & 9 on Precision Sonar mounts and A/T.
GHOST w/3-in-1 & 360.
Power Pole 10' Blades
KVD Edition Hydrowave
I seem to have the best luck just using the actuator for bleeding. Make sure the tube in the jar at the end is submerged in fluid or else you'll be sucking air back into the lines.
I'd also lower the tongue to allow the air to travel out of the system easier. For a completely empty system it takes awhile to get all the air out anyway you do it. If you've got good access to your bleeders, like if the boat is off the trailer, my choice would be the bleeder on the calipers. A swab of grease on the fitting can eliminate sucking air in at the bleeder.
Find a funnel that fits in the top of the master cylinder reservoir. You can fill it beyond the top of the reservoir and that will reduce the possibility of going dry. Have a turkey baster on hand in case you have too much fluid in the res.
2017 Phoenix 819
2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
Clunking noise can be shock going bad on actuator.
2024 Phoenix 818, Mercury 175 (3B414035) Trick Steps, 3 Garmin 106 SV,s, LVS 34. BoatEFX dual bow mount. Ionic 12V 125AH, 2 12V 100 ah LiTime’s for the TM. Minn Kota 345 PCL charger,
2017 Phoenix 819
2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
I had bled my brakes and still heard clunking noise. Shock cylinder had gone bad. You can replace the shock only if i recall was about $43. I replaced the entire assembly from shadow boat trailers out of Ca. Ufp-60A was my number. If the assembly is fairly new than replace the shock. If not i found easier to replace entire system and bleed brakes. No issues 3 years running now. By the time you price the individual parts you will spend about 30% more than a complete assembly.
2024 Phoenix 818, Mercury 175 (3B414035) Trick Steps, 3 Garmin 106 SV,s, LVS 34. BoatEFX dual bow mount. Ionic 12V 125AH, 2 12V 100 ah LiTime’s for the TM. Minn Kota 345 PCL charger,
Me three on the cost effectiveness of replacing the whole
actuator unit.
I have bled trailer brakes all kinds of ways and the best method I have found is a power (pressure) bleeder with a trailer brake adapter such as this ....
https://frsport.com/motive-0130-boat...xoCbY4QAvD_BwE
You Don't Know what you Don't Know until you Know.
1984 Champion 201/Yamaha 175
1986 Ranger 390v/Yamaha 200
2002 Viper Cobra Coosa 216/Mercury 225EFI
2002 ProSports ProKat 2200/Twin Yamaha 150HPDIs
This system/method is what I'd prefer but I can't justify the $70. I just don't need to bleed trailer brakes that often.
How about this? Seems you could close the bleeder screw if the tube got full, empty it and suction again.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CP8R9...d-41a51e5d90ba
Why not just use a vacuum bleeder? It's cheaper, has a place for the fluid, annnnnnd you can see how much vacuum you're pulling.
https://www.amazon.com/HTOMT-Automot...=brake+bleeder
Later,
Dixie Chicken
12 Nitro Z9 DC, 250 Opti w/SmartCraft Gauges
Bobs 12"
NightFishion HD8 rubrail, W/Nav Lights
Oznium Red/Blue 10mm/6mm LED Bolts
4-Channel Wireless Lighting Controller
Carbon 12's & 9 on Precision Sonar mounts and A/T.
GHOST w/3-in-1 & 360.
Power Pole 10' Blades
KVD Edition Hydrowave
The clunking can be due to the hitch ball mount being loose in the receiver, the hole in the mount gets elongated over time. I use one of these to prevent the problem https://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Tigh.../dp/B0001CMUV4
Dan Burnette - Marietta, GA
Triton 18TRX - 200 HO G2