Thread: ? on bleeding

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  1. #1
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    ? on bleeding

    When I ready to bleed tje brakes on my 96 Ranger Trail trailer will it pull the fluid right threw the solenoid or do I haveto hook it up to power souce somehow to disengage the solenpoid?

  2. Member Danrude's Avatar
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    #2
    You do not need to hook up the power to bleed the brakes. Be sure to lower the tonge of the trailer so the air will run up hill for best results.
    Dan Burnette - Marietta, GA
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    #3
    I tried the lowering the tongue technique on my Procraft's trailer but it still has air. It bangs hard when I stop and pull off now.
    Troll lightly and carry a big flippin stick!!!

  4. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #4
    Air in the lines is a possible cause of that, but not the only one. Did you bleed until there were no bubbles in the jar?
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    #5
    I did, but still have that clunking noise when stopping and going.
    Troll lightly and carry a big flippin stick!!!

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    #6
    I wouldn't lower the tongue, because then any air in there is forced into the lines if the reservoir gets low. Think about it, the reservoir on your vehicles is higher than all the brake calipers. As long as you keep the reservoir topped off, you just need to keep forcing fluid into the calipers till they run clean. Plus you want to bleed the farthest one first, then the next farthest one, and so on. If the 'T' that splits the lines is towards the left side of the axle(s) then the right rear will the first, and logic would dictate the right front (based on the distance), but in this instance it'd be the left rear, FOLLOWED by the right front., then finally the left front Of course if the 'T' is at the right side of the axle(s) you'd reverse that procedure.

    Back to the bleeding....
    Several ways to do that. You can keep pumping the tongue. You can get a hand bleeder and connect to the caliper that'll pull fresh fluid from the reservoir. Or you can get a pressure bleeder and try to get a tight seal on the reservoir and force it from that end to the calipers. I use a pressure bleeder on my vehicles, but it's pretty much useless on the boat because you can't get a tight seal on top of that reservoir. I get a bit of clunk sometimes, (depending on how hard I accelerate) but I know the brakes are working.

    The KEY is to make sure the trailer is level, and the reservoir never gets more than half empty.
    Later,

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  7. Scraps
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    #7
    I seem to have the best luck just using the actuator for bleeding. Make sure the tube in the jar at the end is submerged in fluid or else you'll be sucking air back into the lines.

    I'd also lower the tongue to allow the air to travel out of the system easier. For a completely empty system it takes awhile to get all the air out anyway you do it. If you've got good access to your bleeders, like if the boat is off the trailer, my choice would be the bleeder on the calipers. A swab of grease on the fitting can eliminate sucking air in at the bleeder.

    Find a funnel that fits in the top of the master cylinder reservoir. You can fill it beyond the top of the reservoir and that will reduce the possibility of going dry. Have a turkey baster on hand in case you have too much fluid in the res.
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    #8
    Clunking noise can be shock going bad on actuator.

  9. Member ifishinxs's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by javelin90 View Post
    Clunking noise can be shock going bad on actuator.
    Your correct.
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  10. Scraps
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by javelin90 View Post
    Clunking noise can be shock going bad on actuator.
    This. Had this on my two year old trailer. Bled the system and still clunking. It's the shock. PITA is you have to open the system up again to replace it, and bleed again.
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    #11
    I had bled my brakes and still heard clunking noise. Shock cylinder had gone bad. You can replace the shock only if i recall was about $43. I replaced the entire assembly from shadow boat trailers out of Ca. Ufp-60A was my number. If the assembly is fairly new than replace the shock. If not i found easier to replace entire system and bleed brakes. No issues 3 years running now. By the time you price the individual parts you will spend about 30% more than a complete assembly.

  12. Member ifishinxs's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by javelin90 View Post
    I had bled my brakes and still heard clunking noise. Shock cylinder had gone bad. You can replace the shock only if i recall was about $43. I replaced the entire assembly from shadow boat trailers out of Ca. Ufp-60A was my number. If the assembly is fairly new than replace the shock. If not i found easier to replace entire system and bleed brakes. No issues 3 years running now. By the time you price the individual parts you will spend about 30% more than a complete assembly.
    Yes sir! I did the same thing. If the shock is toast most likely everything else is worn out as well or close to it.
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    #13
    Me three on the cost effectiveness of replacing the whole
    actuator unit.

    I have bled trailer brakes all kinds of ways and the best method I have found is a power (pressure) bleeder with a trailer brake adapter such as this ....

    https://frsport.com/motive-0130-boat...xoCbY4QAvD_BwE
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  14. Member Bassman Ia.'s Avatar
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by javelin90 View Post
    I had bled my brakes and still heard clunking noise. Shock cylinder had gone bad. You can replace the shock only if i recall was about $43. I replaced the entire assembly from shadow boat trailers out of Ca. Ufp-60A was my number. If the assembly is fairly new than replace the shock. If not i found easier to replace entire system and bleed brakes. No issues 3 years running now. By the time you price the individual parts you will spend about 30% more than a complete assembly.
    I think Shock and Master cyl. Cost me $55-$60

    I also use a vacuum bleeder

  15. Member TX721's Avatar
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by LOSTTEXAN View Post
    Me three on the cost effectiveness of replacing the whole
    actuator unit.

    I have bled trailer brakes all kinds of ways and the best method I have found is a power (pressure) bleeder with a trailer brake adapter such as this ....

    https://frsport.com/motive-0130-boat...xoCbY4QAvD_BwE
    This system/method is what I'd prefer but I can't justify the $70. I just don't need to bleed trailer brakes that often.

    How about this? Seems you could close the bleeder screw if the tube got full, empty it and suction again.

    https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CP8R9...d-41a51e5d90ba

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    #16
    Why not just use a vacuum bleeder? It's cheaper, has a place for the fluid, annnnnnd you can see how much vacuum you're pulling.

    https://www.amazon.com/HTOMT-Automot...=brake+bleeder
    Later,

    Dixie Chicken

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  17. Member Danrude's Avatar
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    #17
    The clunking can be due to the hitch ball mount being loose in the receiver, the hole in the mount gets elongated over time. I use one of these to prevent the problem https://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Tigh.../dp/B0001CMUV4
    Dan Burnette - Marietta, GA
    Triton 18TRX - 200 HO G2