Bilge Pump Float Switch

[papafrancisco]

Has anyone installed their own bilge pump float switch rather than the factory model? If so any suggestions as to where you located the switch? Thanks

[Casslaw]

Is the switch not mounted to the pump? Can you post a pic of the switch and what boat you’re running?

[papafrancisco]

My bad. It's a 2016 RT188. I don't believe it has an auto bilge pump i.e. with the float switch built in the bilge pump.

[krr6581]

I upgraded my bilge pump this year. A Johnson 500GPH bilge pump had been in my boat and for some reason a backflow preventer had never been installed which caused me over the last few years numerous headaches. I decided to replace it with a 1000 ghp Johnson pump with backflow preventer. I also added the Johnson float switch. Both were relatively easy to install. I didn't think much of Johnsons wiring diagram or explanation of how to install it. The video's online on how to install a pump really doesn't show much the same with the install of a float switch. I bought my pump and float switch off of Ebay and saved a lot of money compared to buying them from your local boat shop. I only paid $43 including shipping for the bilge pump with backflow preventer. I got the float switch for $21 with free shipping. Both were new in the package. If you buy a 1000 gph pump the backflow preventer will reduce your pump to the equivalent of approximately 850 gph. For me I felt getting a little larger capacity bilge pump was a good decision and the float switch works perfectly. When wired correctly your bilge will come on at the flip of your switch and also the float switch will turn it on before you even have to think about turning on your pump. If I can help in any way give me a shout.

Almost forgot. The Johnson bilge pump base has a place to attach the float switch. The base of the pump can be removed by unscrewing 3 screws in the bottom of the pump and you can then rotate it for the desired location where you want your float switch to attach to then you just replace the screws and your in business.

[Bill Reynolds]

My bad. It's a 2016 RT188. I don't believe it has an auto bilge pump i.e. with the float switch built in the bilge pump.

Ranger makes it easy to upgrade to the auto bilge if you use the auto Rule-Mate. They include an additional connector in the wiring harness. The non auto pump has a two wire connector (Black, Brown) while the auto has a three wire connector (Black, Brown, Brown/orange). The 3 wire connector is wire tied to the wiring bundle behind the port side transom brace. You will have to remove both TM batteries to have enough room to work. You will need to extend the Brown/Orange wire long enough to hook to the positive battery terminal through a 5 amp fuse. Plug it in and you are good to go.
This pump has a built in electronic switch.

[Casslaw]

And as alaways, Mr Reynolds knows ALL!

[papafrancisco]

Bill,

Did you replace your pump? If so what GPM did you go with?

[Bill Reynolds]

Bill,

Did you replace your pump? If so what GPM did you go with?

yes You have to replace the pump with the one that has the built in float switch. I bought the same size as was there, 750 GPM.
I bought it from Ranger to be sure I got the correct plug, but have learned since that it comes from the mfg with the right plug.
It was $65 from Ranger, probably cheaper elsewhere.
This pump comes with two fittings in the package, a 90 degree one and a straight one. The straight one Will cause the back of the pump to rub against the Aluminum battery shelf and after a year or so, give false signals to the electronic sensor in the back of the pump. Use the elbow and set it up like The pic in my previous post.
This is the result:

[papafrancisco]

Bill how did you get the three pin wiring harness cut loose from behind the port side gusset? My battery trays are crammed in causing thre pump to rub against the center tray. Trying to relocate the center battery tray forward a bit but the self tapping screw heads are stripped. It’s never easy...
Started back at it this morning and realized the pump is lodged between back wall and aluminum battery plate. From your pictures it looks like you have at least a quarter of an inch clearance. It’s never easy...

[papafrancisco]

Bill do you have the aluminum battery plate in place? After reviewing the picture several times it appears the upper pump body is considerably above what the battery is sitting on.

[Bill Reynolds]

Bill how did you get the three pin wiring harness cut loose from behind the port side gusset? My battery trays are crammed in causing thre pump to rub against the center tray. Trying to relocate the center battery tray forward a bit but the self tapping screw heads are stripped. It’s never easy...
Started back at it this morning and realized the pump is lodged between back wall and aluminum battery plate. From your pictures it looks like you have at least a quarter of an inch clearance. It’s never easy...

The 3 pin connector is bundled and wire tied to extra cable and stuffed behind the port side transom brace. You have to work it out then cut the wire tie.
This is the way my pump was mounted originally with the straight connector. It rubbed against the aluminum plate the batteries are mounted on so much that it was setting off the auto sensor built into the housing. (Kind of weird actually, but once I relocated the pump, it worked correctly)



I replaced the straight hose connector with an elbow to move the pump away from the plate.

[papafrancisco]

Thanks Bill. I reckon the location of my aluminum plate sets further towards the stern than yours does. If I elevate the pump using standoffs by about a quarter of an inch I will clear the plate.

[Panama]

I left the manual bilge pump alone and it still works off the dash switch when you turn it on. I added another bilge pump with a self-contained float switch and wired it directly to the start battery with its own in-line fuse. It won't come on unless I need it to and it gives me a little backup or redundancy in case I need it. It has worked like that for about 3 years without a problem.