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  1. #1
    Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    Fuel line type question.

    B1 or A1 in a rear battery compartment with large deck lid? I'd like to use a single hose (EITHER A1 or B1) from separator to motor and not use a connector between two different hoses. I am deleting the tank selector valve. I never use my auxiliary tank. The goal here is to have the cleanest fuel delivery with the least chance for fuel restriction or air leak. Currently, I have B1 everywhere.

    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #2
    BRP has fuel line with a gray nitrile liner in it that is Ethanol resistant sold in bulk #0772565 isn't cheap but what is anymore. That number is for the 3/8" ID. Nice job on your fuel lines.

  3. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    BRP has fuel line with a gray nitrile liner in it that is Ethanol resistant sold in bulk #0772565 isn't cheap but what is anymore.
    So, thumbs up to using a B1 rated line in the rear battery compartment?

    I've found both 772565(3/8" B1-15) and 772576(3/8" A1-15) by the foot at marineengine.com
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  4. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #4
    A1--fuel feed hose; has a fire resistant cover; is designed to have fuel in the hose at all times. Least permeable with highest fire resistance.


    B1--fuel feed hose; without fire resistant cover; is designed to have fuel in the hose at all times; intended for non-enclosed spaces. Diesel engines or above deck outboard gasoline

  5. Moderator SEAHORSE's Avatar
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    #5
    Inside the boat use the 3/8" A1-15 fuel line. From the transom well to the motor can be B1-15.
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  6. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #6
    Well, I was trying to use a single run of hose from the fuel water separator to the motor but I guess I can't do that.
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  7. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #7
    You can run A1 all the way to the motor.

  8. Moderator SEAHORSE's Avatar
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    #8
    Some boats have a metal hose nipple with a double end that goes through the splashwell wall.

    Other rigging options are A1-15 hose to the splashwell and connected to the primer ball inlet. From the primer ball outlet to the motor, use B1-15 hose.



    With your fuel filter just above the battery terminals, use extreme care when replacing or draining the filter. It is best to protect the negative terminals also for extra protection against shorting and allow the compartment ample time to vent completely before starting the outboard or trolling motor.

    I believe it would be safer with less chance of fuel spilling on the batteries if they were enclosed and covered.
    Last edited by SEAHORSE; 08-30-2018 at 07:54 AM.
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  9. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #9
    Ok. I’ll put terminal covers on the negative posts. Positive posts are already covered. I can remove the fuel water separator to drain it or replace the filter. I have enough fuel line that I can take it out of the boat to work on it. Actually, I have never needed to drain it and this will be my first annual filter replacement.

    I have a G2 so the fuel line goes through the rigging hose. I did save my transom fitting and it has the required minimum I.D. so I can use it to connect an A1 line to a B1 just before it goes in the rigging hose. I’ll try a single length of A1 but I’m afraid that it might be too big (O.D.) to fit through the rigging hose and behind the front cover of the G2.



    Seahorse, what do you mean by “enclosed” and covered. I am thinking typical battery post covers. Is that ok or did you mean something else?
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


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    #10
    Industry standards and practices recommend a shield between the filter and batteries if above or in close proximity. If there is room in your compartment, enclosing the batteries in orinary battery boxes would be your protection.
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  11. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #11
    Oh, boy! Not sure if I can get boxes in there. I might have to move the filter back to its original location on the starboard wall of the compartment. The 201 has a little “alcove” kinda area there. It came from the factory with a standard OMC filter in that spot with the fuel lines running over the top of the fuel tank to the filter. That space is kinda small and I don’t think the Racor with the bowl will fit there. I would have to go back to the Evinrude filter. Maybe that’s the best way to do it. I never see any water in the bowl anyways.

    Fred, doesn’t your 201 have that same area for the filter? You use the regular OMC filter, don’t you?
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  12. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by 86 inches View Post
    Oh, boy! Not sure if I can get boxes in there. I might have to move the filter back to its original location on the starboard wall of the compartment. The 201 has a little “alcove” kinda area there. It came from the factory with a standard OMC filter in that spot with the fuel lines running over the top of the fuel tank to the filter. That space is kinda small and I don’t think the Racor with the bowl will fit there. I would have to go back to the Evinrude filter. Maybe that’s the best way to do it. I never see any water in the bowl anyways.

    Fred, doesn’t your 201 have that same area for the filter? You use the regular OMC filter, don’t you?
    Yes it is very tight in there. Mine is the 180* opposite of yours as my tank's "wings" face the transom. So in my filter mount I had to be creative. I had to mount mine to a bracket and then install it under the "rain gutter" seeing I also ran my fuel hose up thru the rigging tube I opted to keep my primer bulb in the battery compartment and installed the primer bulb just after the filter. I chose to run the A1-15 all the way to the motor and it fit my rigging hose just fine, but keep in mind I'm running a carbed motor and not the G2 but the rigging hose should be 2" Diameter so the hose should fit just fine.

  13. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #13
    Here are some more pics.

    From the factory, the fuel lines came out and took a right on top of the fuel tank toward the upper right hand corner of this pic.



    Right now I have my Noco charger over there. The two screws you see held the filter head in place. The filter was well away from the batteries in that spot.



    I still have the original head as well as a new OMC filter ready to go...



    Now that I have been educated on this, I might just have to go back to the old setup. I like the original location better. I just won't be able to use my Racor bowl. I don't think I've ever found any moisture in my fuel before... not that it couldn't happen in the future. Of course, the G2 does have a sensor in the on-motor fuel water separator that should alert me if that were to happen. It's just been reassuring to be able to visually check it every time I head out. Compromises! Dang it! Wish the Racor would fit over there.
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  14. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #14
    If I do go back to the original setup, I have a couple of questions about the original filter head. There is a very light coat of surface rust inside the center threaded fitting. Can I just clean that with a little gas or do I need to use another solvent? And... should I just leave the 90 degree fittings alone or should I remove them and reinstall them with some fresh sealant. They look OK and I can put a filter on and vacuum test it before putting it back into the system.
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  15. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #15
    I got these fuel lines from Crowley Marine. Supposedly, they are Evinrude part numbers 772576 and 772565, both 3/8" and A1-15 and B1-15 rated respectively. I understand from the pros here and on the etec owners site that the Evinrude lines are high quality. They both do have the gray inside liner but the numbers on the lines concern me. It looks like they are SAE J30R9. Isn't that an automotive class of fuel injector line? The Evinrude A1 772576 is discontinued and I believe what they sent me was supposedly original older stock. (looks like it was manufactured in 2016.)

    Are these really Evinrude fuel lines? I've used Crowley for several years and they have always been very good but this doesn't seem right to me. My dealer has Mercury B1-15 line like I have now and they also carry Shields A1-15 line. Should I just go with the Shields A1 hose that I can get locally? Is Shields a good product? I have no idea?

    This is the Evinrude A1 line 0772576...


    and this is the Evinrude B1 line 772565...
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  16. Moderator SEAHORSE's Avatar
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    #16
    It should say A1-15 or B1-15 every 12" or so Should say SAE J1527 which is for marine hose



    A1 it is used to convey gasoline or diesel in boats with enclosed engine
    compartments, however, it is uniquely designed to meet new EPA requirements for
    low-permeation class A1-15 fuel lines. Flexshield has been tested to 15 gm/m2/day
    permeation & meets Section 213 of the Clean Air Act to ensure compliance to EPA.
    It has a thick cover designed to resist flames & oil and a embedded nylon barrier
    to limit fuel permeation. NL4526 exceeds SAE J1527 USCG Type A1-15 fuel feed
    and Type A2 fuel fill specifications as well as ISO 7840-A1 and CE requirements.
    ContiTech’s Flexshield fuel line is also compatible with E15/B20 Biofuels.
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  17. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #17
    Neither of these hoses have the USCG markings or the SAE J1527 but the SAE J30R9 does meet the permeation requirement of 15 gm/m2/day. There are no markings that distinguish the 772576 A1 line from the 772565 B1 line. They look the same except for different production dates.

    I can't find the Conti Tech Flexshield anywhere. It looks nice. I did find this Unaflex product, "Flex-Acol" https://www.marine-hoses.com/product...ine-38-15-feet

    Of course, there are the Trident and the Sierra Shields lines that you can get anywhere.

    I was hoping to use an OEM Evinrude product. As far as I know, that's what I got from Crowley but I don't understand why it doesn't have the USCG markings. Do you guys not use those part numbers? Do you use something else?
    Last edited by 86 inches; 09-08-2018 at 09:01 PM.
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  18. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #18
    This post by SeaHorse suggests that maybe the SAE J30R9 was ok. Maybe before the SAE J1527 came out?

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....l=1#post105390
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


  19. Moderator SEAHORSE's Avatar
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by 86 inches View Post


    I can't find the Conti Tech Flexshield anywhere. It looks nice. I did find this Unaflex product, "Flex-Acol" https://www.marine-hoses.com/product...ine-38-15-feet



    I was hoping to use an OEM Evinrude product. As far as I know, that's what I got from Crowley but I don't understand why it doesn't have the USCG markings.

    https://www.contitech.us/pages/produ...gaAu3VEALw_wcB



    i would not be surprised if the hose was substituted for the original OEM part number. then shipped to you.
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  20. Member 86 inches's Avatar
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    #20
    About the only place that I can find the Flexshield for sale is from new-line in Canada. Nothing here in the states. Unless someone here has a source, I might just have to order from them.
    1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419


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