So I'm in need of a wiring diagram for my 92 201dcr, have a few small things to fix but will likely re-wire the whole boat, any advice/info is much appreciated.
So I'm in need of a wiring diagram for my 92 201dcr, have a few small things to fix but will likely re-wire the whole boat, any advice/info is much appreciated.
Sent you an email througb BBC.
Start from scratch.
Don't Solder connections.
Use marine grade wire and connectors.
https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/artic...g-on-boats.asp
http://www.marinewireandcable.com/20...cable-and.html
Why would you not solder connections?
The Champs of that era have harnesses with Molex connectors at the console and at the bow. The mating connector has the wiring to the switches / indicators / functions for those locations. The wiring harness has been inside the hull all these years and should be in excellent condition due to the fact it is pretty well inaccessible by anyone. So I see no need whatsoever in rewiring a boat. Cleanup of the wiring under the console or at the bow may be needed since folks have a tendency to just splice willy nilly. Contacts for the Molex connectors are still available, so no need in splicing wires. They are also crimped connectors. Anything less is just another southern engineered mess IMO. Any attempt at cleaning someone's mess without going with the original wire colors does nothing but create confusion for someone down the road. Rant over ...
Because . . . http://www.marinewireandcable.com/20...cable-and.html
Bruce Phillips
1995 190 DC champion ......1995 200 xri merc
Ok,
Those crimps were done wrong.
If you want to use solder, it's your boat.
Besides I can't imagine what the automotive, marine, aircraft, NASA, military and nuclear power industry knows that we bass fishermen don't.
Crimping ain't rocket science but if'n it ain't done right, as with anything, it will fail and here's a another link. https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/
Good luck!
p.s. Not trying to be a smarta$$. BTW trying my best to get to the TOC hope to see you there.
Years of doing “ad lib” work on the harness can muck it up. I’ve seen some horrible messes that could only be fixed right by starting fresh. It’s not rocket science but to do it right requires a commitment both in educating yourself as well as some significant expense. It ain’t cheap. It requires a lot of study to learn and understand ABYC standards and the basics of circuitry. Specialty tools, quality terminations and marine wiring can put a strain on your budget. If you don’t have to do it, then it’s probably best not to start.
Having said that, for those that have decided they’re gonna do it the links previously posted by BigMouth are excellent resources. Study that info like you’re gonna be tested on it... a failing grade might mean a burned up boat! Another great resource is the Blue Sea Systems’ website. They will walk you through the basics of wiring and circuit protection. They even have a calculator to help you get the right wire gauges and fuses/breakers.
Ancor makes great marine products. Tools, wiring amd terminals. You can’t go wrong with their stuff. There’s other quality stuff out there, too like Molex and AMP. The links BigMouth posted covers all of that.
And while you will find that there is a cult like following for soldering splices and terminations, there is no place for it in the marine environment. Quality crimps is the industry standard despite personal preference and anecdotal evidence.
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
Spend some money on the tool, from my past experiences it’s important... this is a good one for the money, there are better but much more expensive... https://shop.marinehowto.com/product...ink-crimp-tool
This is a good place with good prices, to buy wire and connectors ... http://www.genuinedealz.com/
Primary colored wire is everywhere on the internet. This is one of the few companies that sells marine grade trace wire, (colored strip) for identification purposes.
https://www.sherco-auto.com/
These two places sell most of the brands that 86 mentioned above.
Get'er done!
For the pin and socket contacts used in the plugs, you need a crimper like this
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimpin...14204304&psc=1
Don't forget the pin pusher.
I’m addicted to these...
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
Not me. My boat’s not going anywhere. My G2 rigging is loaded with those Deutch connectors. Turns out they work great for replaceable devices like pumps and aerators.
Reggie, I’d bet good money you can tell me what that connector above goes to just by looking at it. No?
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
Don't believe that's a Champion connector. My 93 201 didn't have anything like that and my 95 manual doesn't show any 3 conductor connectors, so I'm going to WAG it and say it part of you outboard wiring. The European type connectors on my 07 got to instrumentation.
You’re right. It is on the G2 harness. But red, blue and green wires? Trim, of course. And if the colors don’t tip off whoever might be in there, they could always read the label!
So, yeah, I didn’t follow the original wiring diagram when I rewired my 201. When I repowered with the G2, I had to completely redesign the dash. Switches, fuse block, gauges... nothing is original now. I had to find a way to merge 2016 technology with the old stuff. This...
became this...
I decided to just redo it all. I probably didn’t have to run new wiring for lights and such but it was just way easier to pull it all and start over. All wiring follows industry color standards and everything is labeled; at the fuse block, on both sides of every connection and at terminations. The labeled wires are then covered with clear heat shrink so they can’t fall off or get damaged. Everything is bundled in wire loom for extra protection where necessary. Having done the work myself I am intimately familiar with it all which makes repairs all the easier and the labels and color codes make identification quick and easy. Which brings me to this indispensable tool... the label maker.
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
Very nice work. Also hope you documented it all cause unless you plan on being buried in it, someone else will end up with it one of these days. You will have to admit though that your typical boat owner with rewiring on his mind is not going to be as disciplined.
Agree. It’s easy to mess it up.
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419