1996 Faststrike 150HP fuel pump eliminating

[Frank A]

I 91 did that and had to have Tommy pump the had to get to the ramp …. had a bad "original" vro pump and no alarms and replace it with a new style and ran 9 years and recently got to where it would over oil and not restart after cutting it off . had to replace the vro fuel diaphragm I know you are not running a vro but the pump you have pictured has a diaphragm just like the old vro did. maybe it has a split that is being over looked.
FRED, do you think he could do a vacuum leak down test on this type pump?

[ScottOz]

Can someone explain how the "system" works. The fuel pump, Vapor Separator, vacuum lines and such as a system. I have all of it off at the moment.

[ChampioNman]

Fuel enters the fuel bracket by way of the fuel filter and the vapor tank. Inside the vapor tank it a float/needle seat that raises and lowers, the outlet from the tank goes to fuel side of the fuel pump. The diaphragm is vacuum driven by crank case vacuum and is supplied by way of the pulse limiter that is screwed into the block. It is attached to the fuel bracket where the output is split by the two hoses that go to each bank's fuel manifold supplying fuel to the back of the carbs. The vapor pump removes fumes from the system. The vacuum switch monitors the vacuum in the fuel system and sounds a solid alarm when the vacuum reaches critical point. The vacuum switch is not used on V-4 models. That's the readers digest condensed version.
A complete description along with hose routing and testing is in Chapter two of your Motor's Factory service manual.

[ScottOz]

Fuel enters the fuel bracket by way of the fuel filter and the vapor tank. Inside the vapor tank it a float/needle seat that raises and lowers, the outlet from the tank goes to fuel side of the fuel pump. The diaphragm is vacuum driven by crank case vacuum and is supplied by way of the pulse limiter that is screwed into the block. It is attached to the fuel bracket where the output is split by the two hoses that go to each bank's fuel manifold supplying fuel to the back of the carbs. The vapor pump removes fumes from the system. The vacuum switch monitors the vacuum in the fuel system and sounds a solid alarm when the vacuum reaches critical point. The vacuum switch is not used on V-4 models. That's the readers digest condensed version.
A complete description along with hose routing and testing is in Chapter two of your Motor's Factory service manual.

Thank You. All this started when I would have to pump the ball after fishing a spot and then go to move. Found a crack in the fuel pump leaking. Still have to pump ball every time and lost high rpm range. Thought it was all do to using he aftermarket pump. Kicked myself because I am big on OEM. That is when put on the OMC one. Still the same issue but feel better about running that one. I do not see a fuel leak. Need to use the smoke machine on it maybe to find a vacuum leak. Will look at the Chapter 2. See if there is something I am missing.

[ChampioNman]

Did you happen to replace the carb float bowls somewhere along in this adventure?

[ScottOz]

Did you happen to replace the carb float bowls somewhere along in this adventure?

No, have not touched the carbs. Primer ball was changed first. It was from 96 so put an OEM on it. no change. found the leak in the VRO pump. Changed that to the aftermarket. Ran worse no high RPM. Replaced with new OMC. have changed fuel selector thinking maybe and air leak. Check valve in tank were removed prior a long time ago.

[ChampioNman]

On your motor you have two semi-transparent plastic fittings where the oil and fuel hoses attached going into the motor if you look close enough you will be able to see the fuel flow running thru the fuel fitting. Start the motor on muffs and watch the fuel fitting for air bubbles. If you can't see thru the plastic fitting, pick up a piece of 3/8" clear vinyl hose and a hose mender and splice it in to the fuel line. Monitor the fuel flow and look for air bubbles running thru the hose, if you have any air leaks that's how you'll find them. You may want to consider replacing the fuel hose from the tank to the motor.

[ScottOz]

On your motor you have two semi-transparent plastic fittings where the oil and fuel hoses attached going into the motor if you look close enough you will be able to see the fuel flow running thru the fuel fitting. Start the motor on muffs and watch the fuel fitting for air bubbles. If you can't see thru the plastic fitting, pick up a piece of 3/8" clear vinyl hose and a hose mender and splice it in to the fuel line. Monitor the fuel flow and look for air bubbles running thru the hose, if you have any air leaks that's how you'll find them. You may want to consider replacing the fuel hose from the tank to the motor.

Forgot about that! I have run new fuel line from selector tank switch to motor. I have heard about the fitting and was going to bypass it just to check. I don't think I ever did that.

[ChampioNman]

You did use 3/8" fuel line?

[ScottOz]

You did use 3/8" fuel line?

Yes Sir

[ChampioNman]

Have you decided to install a piece of clear vinyl hose inline to check for air bubbles?

[ScottOz]

Have you decided to install a piece of clear vinyl hose inline to check for air bubbles?

Yes I will this weekend. Have to put it back together. I have the vapor separator and pump off.

[ScottOz]

Have you decided to install a piece of clear vinyl hose inline to check for air bubbles?

Okay, Weekend weather until today has not been friendly for me. Okay put the system back on today. Ran the clear hose from the clear tube to the fuel inlet at the filter. pumped bulb. Filled hose with fuel. Fuel stayed nice and no bubbles. Just ran on muff in yard. Let it sit and did not drain back to tank. Fires right back up and fuel stays nice without bubbles.

[ScottOz]

Have you decided to install a piece of clear vinyl hose inline to check for air bubbles?

Any help for the next step. I will not be able to run it in the lake until next weekend. Will see if it changes by pushing the choke in.

[ScottOz]

BUMP

[ChampioNman]

I think we are waiting for you.

[ScottOz]

I think we are waiting for you.

Okay to see if it helps by choking? was not sure if there was a way to maybe use the clear hose out of the two that go to fuel manifolds to see if air leaking at the vapor separator. Or some other tip before running this weekend. Thanks will let you know.

[ChampioNman]

The purpose of the clear hose is to be placed inline prior to the pump to check for air bubbles coming from the tank.
Yes we also want to hear the results of depressing the key should the motor stumble.

[ScottOz]

The purpose of the clear hose is to be placed inline prior to the pump to check for air bubbles coming from the tank.
Yes we also want to hear the results of depressing the key should the motor stumble.

Correct. like I said no air leak (bubbles) in the clear hose. So if it is an air leak it will be after the pump. Pump to tank is good. Was just wondering if there was a way to go farther before running in a tournament this Sunday. If not will let you know how the choke works. Thank You for the help so far.

[ScottOz]

Okay Update. Ran the boat. Choke when it is stumbling makes it worse. Just even bumping the key does not help. Something I forgot to mention. Is I have to pump to ball the every time to start the boat. I have owned this since 1998. Never had to this before. I would pump the ball first thing in the a.m. then fish all day. Then I developed an issue where I needed to pump the ball after shutting down to fish and to restart. I originally found a leak with fuel/VRO pump. Thought this was the reason behind this issue. Now still have to pump the ball before every start. If it will get on plane with the fuel (sometimes it will stumble and fall of plane ) need to pump ball again. Then it will run tournament loaded around 4200 rpm's top anymore it will stumble (needs fuel). will run as long as you want. made a run on Okeechobee Sunday like this for over 20 mile run. Had my rider go back and lay on the back deck. Pump ball just to keep fuel in it. Will run always 5300-5400 rpm's for as long as he was back there over 20 miles doing this. I do not see any leaks. Is this leaking internal? Any help from hear. I have fuel pressure gauges, Vacuum gauge and automotive smoke machine if needed. Not a outboard mechanic but have been in the Auto Electric field for 34 years.