2007 P2, So I need two 6 footers and two 10 footers...do I rip the 2x6's for the bunks down to 4 3/4"? Also, am I ok with not making that angled cut at the front and just bevel the backs? Also, just use non treated pine right? Thanks.
2007 P2, So I need two 6 footers and two 10 footers...do I rip the 2x6's for the bunks down to 4 3/4"? Also, am I ok with not making that angled cut at the front and just bevel the backs? Also, just use non treated pine right? Thanks.
I would use PT pine. Unless you want to redo this next year. Regular dunking will disagree with untreated pine. You can omit that front bevel I suppose. It was so easy to cut that I did it anyway when I did mine.
2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
If you contact Allan at BCB parts, They have a carpet kit and diagram included on how to taper and rip the boards. It is not a bad price. You can also get bunks pre-made but shipping will eat you up. Best way to do that is work with a dealer and see if they can squeeze a set of what you need on a boat shipment.
I did end up calling parts and ordering the carpet kit. The premade bunks would've been $150 to ship and I can't really wait to try and get them sent to a dealer, currently have one held on with duct tape. Thanks guys.
I replaced the bunks on one of my Cats a few years back. Shipping to Canada for the bunks was horribly cost prohibitive. Building and carpeting new ones was relatively easy with the correct dimensions. However, bunk placement on the brackets is critical, so take your time and be as accurate as you possibly can. If you are off too much, the boat will sit on the chines, instead of in between the chines.
2019 BCB Classic
Merc V8 200 4S
I plan on cutting the boards, carpeting them and then putting the boat in the water and tying it up and doing it in the parking lot. I thought that the best way to match the new bunks to the old ones would be to put the old bunks on top of the new ones and drilling through the old holes into the new bunk. Then I'll already have my pilot holes for the lag bolts. I've got a couple of drills and probably 5 lithium batteries for them so I think it should go pretty fast. Should I put silicone or anything on the lag bolts?
My favorite is to (a) drill pilot holes; (b) position bunk and run lag bolts in until snug; (c) remove the bolts and lay that bunk on floor; (d) drip in some THIN super-glue (model / hobby stores usually carry a family of superglues made by Zap.) The thinnest one is like water. Dribble that into the hole and let it sit for a half hour or so. It will absorb into the PT wood, and then cure and make the threads rock-solid. Now re-install and you are done... DO NOT glue fingers together. :)
2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
Thanks for the advice here and to Basscat for the carpet and instructions. Was actually easier than I thought it'd be (though it helps that my brother is a contractor and has a big portable table saw). One thing that I did notice which I never did before is that it seems like the middle bracket for the starboard long bunk might be a little bit short. I noticed it when I pulled off the old one and then again when I put the new one on (wasn't the wood).
Was wondering if I should leave as is or try and shim it between the bracket and the bunk.
I’ve read that a lot of guys use a ratchet type clamp to cinch the bunk against the bracket before putting in the lag screws. I just used a c clamp when I did mine. Shouldn’t have to shim it.
2019 BCB Classic
Merc V8 200 4S
They are not too bad to install but you need to take your time when you replace them. I used the padded c squeeze clamps to hold the bunk in place and used a ratchet strap to pull it when you get to the front part of the bunk. The short bunks are not too bad to get on. The long bunks you need to work into place when you get to the front. You have to measure how your bunks are installed and get the spacing right between the bunks front to rear. The spacing for proper resting between the chines is tight so there is not too much room for error. I did mine when the boat was at the glass shop and it was a little tougher because I referenced the bolt hole location on the old bunks and noticed the spacing was not exactly kosher after I had gotten too far. Definitely work from rear to front no matter what you do when bolting them in. If I had to do it all over again I would leave the boat on the trailer and jack it just enough to get the bunk out and slide the new one in place set the boat to get the proper mounting location on the bracket.
No, I totally agree that you shouldn't have to shim it. I've got them all on, the boat loads fine and they're between the chines.Originally Posted by catdude28
What I noticed was that the middle bracket on the starboard side isn't exactly high enough. The old bunk had a bow in it as well. When I took the bunk and lined it up on all 3 brackets we had to push down the middle of the bunk to make contact with the bracket so I could drill the pilot holes and put in the lag screws. The port side was fine. It's probably 3/8 to 1/2". Again, it wasn't the board...I put the same board across the port brackets and it was fine.
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