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  1. #1
    Member Kitz's Avatar
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    Battery questions

    During a tournament yesterday, the cranking battery died on me. I had to jump it off from the TM batteries. So, I'm looking for a reliable replacement. I run my talons to the cranking battery, maybe that's not what I should be doing? I barely used them yesterday, though. Looking for opinions on a new cranking battery that can handle that workload and be relied upon.

    Also, I fish a lot of tidal water, so my deep cycles get a workout every time I go out. By the end of the day, they're seriously losing power. I'm also looking for suggestions on what I should get to make sure I've got strong power all day.

    All my batteries are interstates. I was thinking about Optimas, but my goodness, they're expensive.

    Thanks for the inputs, in advance :)
    Kitz
    2020 Nitro Z20 w/ 250 Pro XS 4-stroke

  2. Member
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    #2
    Interstates ran them on last boat 3 years and still lasted all day

  3. Member
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    #3
    Interstates work well for me. Keep your talons and all accessories on your cranking battery. Trolling batteries are only for trolling motor
    2015 Nitro Z-7 175 Pro XS

  4. Member
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    #4
    I've been running Optima blue tops for a long time. My last set were 4 or 5 years old when I traded in my boat. I have them in my current boat with a 250 Verado, Power Poles and 3 Lowrance HDS units.

  5. Member KCLOST's Avatar
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    #5
    Interstates have always worked well for me. But everyone has different demands.... Are you checking the water level on the batteries every now and then?
    Layton Strong
    Nitro State Team

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    #6
    Sears and Continental make pretty good batteries.

  7. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #7
    For a cranking battery you need to buy a battery that has the specifications that meets your demand. If my memory is correct an Opti requires a minimum of 850 cranking amps. With that being said I would buy a 1000 cranking amp battery. Run everything on the cranking battery and the trolling motor only on the trolling motor batteries. With everything on the cranking battery this means you will need a battery with a high reserve run time. Reserve is the capacity of energy a battery can store. The more it can store the more it has when it comes time to crank the motor after running all the accessories when the motor was off. I would want a minimum of 200 minutes reserve run time.

    People often tell someone X,Y or Z brand battery is great then latter on the consumer comes to find out the battery did not live up to what was claimed. This is simply because they bought a battery that did not have specifications to meet their needs. I will give a good example. Optima makes an excellent battery. They last several years. However look at their reserve run time. If my memory is correct its around 165 minutes. With only 165 minute reserve run you had better be starting the motor often if your running a lot of accessories.

    Now if you looking for a good cranking battery with lots of cranking amps and reserve look at a group 31 Deka AGM battery. If you want a total beast of a cranking battery then look at a Northstar 31 AGM. The Deka I mentioned is enough for what you have but the Northstar is just in a total class of its own when it comes to power and reserve. Both are AGM so you must have a battery charger that is capable of charging an AGM battery. Your signature says you have a 2013 boat so I will assume you have a 2013 battery charger. A charger that new should be AGM compatible. Some people buy AGM batteries and still have a 20 year old charger and wonder why they can't keep a charger on their brand new AGM battery. It's because AGM require a different charge amp profile. Note I said different amp profile not charger...My NOCO can charge lead acid and/or AGM. In fact two banks are hooked to lead acid and one bank to AGM.

    When it comes to trolling motor batteries what works for me may not work for you. I run Wal-Mart Everstart lead acid batteries. I think their group 27. They last long enough for the situation I fish but I don't know how they would do on tidal water with current all day. The reason I use them is they don't cost a lot and there is a Wal-Mart in about every town. If your out of town and it's 2 AM in the morning you can always find a open walmart. If your trolling motor lays down you are done fishing. If you big motor does not have the power to crank you are up a creek without a paddle so hence the reason I do not skimp on my cranking battery. I highly recommend the Deka 31 AGM. You can order online if you do not have a local dealer. https://www.dcbattery.com/deka_8a31dt.html

    Ayways my main point is when people are recommending batteries they often mention brand and sometimes they mention group size but the most important thing is specifications such as amps and reserve.

  8. Member
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    #8
    To go along with what JR19 is saying. Here is a some good info from Don Weed at European Marine. This guy knows his stuff.

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....batteries+meet

  9. Member KCLOST's Avatar
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    #9
    JR19 has good info there... But Opti's and probably most all Mercury electric Start motors cleary state: Do not use deep cycle batteries. Engines must use a marine
    starting battery with 1000 MCA, 800 CCA or 180 Ah.

    The Deka 8A31DT is described as a Deep Cycle Battery, not a Starting Battery or Dual Purpose Battery.. So even though the MCA/CCA ratings are right at the recommended rating, that makes me a little nervous. Mainly because of the different charging attributes that a Starting battery prefers over a Deep Cycle or visa versa...
    I'm sure JR will link us to their Marine Starting Battery if they have one...

    I think a lot of us over think batteries... If we are fishing several hours in one spot with everything on, live wells, aerators, 2 sonar units, one with 360, a hydrowave, Talons going up and down all the time, etc... Yea, you are going to need a beast of a battery... But if you keep most "properly rated starting batteries" maintained (which many of us don't do), most of us are going to be just fine.. I personally have an Emergency Start switch ready to go if I over do it...

    It sounds like those Deka's, would be awesome trolling motor batteries though...

    Last edited by KCLOST; 08-14-2018 at 03:11 PM.
    Layton Strong
    Nitro State Team

  10. Member Kitz's Avatar
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    #10
    Great input. Thanks!
    Kitz
    2020 Nitro Z20 w/ 250 Pro XS 4-stroke

  11. Member
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    #11
    I've had new 3 boats all with interstates and had 3 batteries go bad on me at tourney time. Personally will never trust an interstate again and since then I've ran ODYSSEY 31M-PC2150s for 3yrs now without a problem. Expensive batteries but worth the investment for a starting battery. These with my stealth charger are a nice combo.

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    #12
    There is a short list of batteries that actually meet the specs for the opti along with your accessory draw. Look in the Merc 3.0 liter forum and search for the post "Batteries that meet the requirements" . I run a group 31 agm deka intimidator starting battery with no issues. Its the only battery I have had where the random low voltage alarm was not triggered.

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    #13
    I'm with you on the interstate batteries. I have not have very good luck with them.

  14. Member scottyc's Avatar
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    #14
    I agree I run the Deka AGM31 with 4 graphs and my 360, all day with all other pumps running, no issues. I also carry a Noco portable jumper, just in case. AGM is the way to go!
    2007 Nitro 929CDX, 225 Mercury Opti.
    Hummingbird Helix 10/1199 Lowrance 9/12 carbon/Ultrex

  15. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #15
    I normally defend intestate batteries, but after 3 bad cranking batteries in 11-16 months of being installed I bought a x2 from batteries plus, I have always checked water levels and charged right after use but my demand is to high. So funny enough the x2 off the shelf had more juice in it than my fully charged interstate... after my first tournament yesterday with the x2 31 agm I'm pretty happy with it i Han the pumps and graphs hard and never got any low voltage warnings ( I get them when it's below 50* on even the first start with the interstate)
    Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089

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    #16
    I learned the hard way that if for some reason your ignition key gets left on your AGM cranking battery is ruined and has to be replaced.

  17. Member mysuzytoo's Avatar
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    #17
    X2 from Batteries Plus. They have a $20 rebate going and if you buy online and pick up in store you get another 10% off. 1150 CCA and 48 mo replacement. Bought one last year and haven't looked back!

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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by zeke4351 View Post
    I learned the hard way that if for some reason your ignition key gets left on your AGM cranking battery is ruined and has to be replaced.
    Is this the norm?

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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Jboutfishn View Post
    Is this the norm?
    I don’t know if it’s normal or not but if so it is a secret and people are probably ruining batteries and blaming the battery. I figured someone would comment. I know it ruined a new 31 AGM on my new boat. Motor would crank fine but about 30 minutes of fishing running the graph discharged the battery. I might have discovered something. The dealer kind of insinuated running it flat of charge ruins them. I didn’t mention leaving the key on. I won't take any chances.