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  1. #1
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    Question 'No Oil' Fault / Alarms - Intermittently FICHT 115 2003

    2003 Evinrude 115 DI
    Model:E115FPLSTB
    SN: 05007476

    Hi,
    I've jus recently started getting intermittent NO OIL faults. This results in immediate engine slow down to protection mode, and the continuous alarm. But it can be cleared, but shutting off and restart.

    Its not low oil, as my low oil always has and continues to function properly, and my tank is full.

    I read on line here someone inquiring as to what type of oil a poster with a similar problem was using.
    Why is this relevant ?

    I see that the sensor can be replace for roughly $150, and that's probably my first step.

    Can anyone offer a more thorough method of troubleshoot/fault isolation method ?

    5001234 - Pressure Switch.

    Of course I hope its not the very pricey Injector Manifold Assembly modestly selling for $1500

    My gut feeling is the sensor, as the problem is also now occurring at idle after awhile.

    I can idle in gear or neutral or 10 minutes sometimes and then it my fault.
    I'm hesitant to do much more than idle right now.

    Please help!
    Thanks ahead of time.
    Bob

  2. Moderator SEAHORSE's Avatar
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    #2
    You can keep throwing parts at it until its fixed or troubleshoot (or have someone troubleshoot) the oil system. First find out what codes are stored. Check oil pressure at all rpm including idling for a long time. Inspect oil lines, clamps, bulb, and filters. Check pressure sensor wire connector for signs of oil leakage down the wires. Check oil injector. Has it ever blown a fuse?
    -----


    A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !

  3. Member
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    #3
    Seahorse,
    Thanks. I can check the codes next weekend. there's always been slight leak/seep from somewhere along he oil delivery system but I've never dared to mess with it.
    Both the supply and return lines are very old and appear to be needing replacement soon (to and from the storage tank).
    I have the EMM diags, a believe I can monitor my oil pressure that way. Is that what you suggest? I prefer not to throw parts at it, nor pay a shop to investigate this. So, thanks for the great info, as usual.

    Keep the ideas coming, but can't provide more info until nextweekend.

    Bob

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    #4
    Additional info - in a moment of weakness, I surrendered my better judgement and bought a gallon of west marine brand oil. This is what is presently being pumped.
    i also thought maybe yesterday , when faults became more frequent, that maybe my tank was low, so I’ve topped it off (almost a gallon) of the HD50


    It was a sunday and my boat store was closed.
    Could this be the issue??
    Last edited by Rude_115; 08-11-2018 at 09:59 AM. Reason: Clarification

  5. Moderator SEAHORSE's Avatar
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    #5
    You have to monitor your oil pressure with a gauge "tee'd" into the oil line before the regulator.
    -----


    A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !

  6. Member
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    #6
    On an earlier post , someone mentioned that ‘if there’s oil present in the wiring connector/plug, the sensor (switch), is bad.

    Can anyone explain or confirm this?

    I am most likely going to shotgun the $200 switch.

    thx
    Bob

  7. Member Danrude's Avatar
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    #7
    If the switch fails internally the oil can be forced out the end where the wire is attached, the oil will then run down the wire and collect on the connector.
    Dan Burnette - Marietta, GA
    Triton 18TRX - 200 HO G2

  8. Member
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    #8
    So, I have purchased a new Oil Pressure switch / sensor. for $195. I'm going to attempt to replace it tomorrow. All I have is the SELOC manual, and it says that the entire manifold assembly needs to be removed. I find this hard to believe. Can anyone advise me on the best way to replace this part? I hope so.
    Thanks in advance
    Bob

  9. Member
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    #9

    Praying Success! (Knock on wood)...

    It appears that the replacement oil sensor / switch solved my problem.
    I was able to remove the old switch by firmly pressing down on it with a screwdriver , very close to the business end.

    When the the old part came out, a few pieces that I was not expecting, came out with it. O rings, stainless steel grabbing mechanism , and plastic bushings.

    It took a few attempts to re-seat the new switch and not leak oil. Mostly it came down to applying upward pressure with flat screwdriver, to coax the new part vertically into place. Along with reseating the mating parts that came out unexpectedly.
    Once I got it to not leak, it held its own and appears fixed .

    no more NO OIL faults....thank god...