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  1. #1
    Member jrich057's Avatar
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    Feb 2012
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    Ultrex on old TR21

    Posted a thread on the Triton board which has been helpful, but still looking for any possible info. I ordered an Ultrex 45, and I have a 2000 Triton TR21. The front switch/finder panel has a raised lip that I'm pretty sure is going to be a problem. Anyone out there have experience with installing an Ultrex 45 on an older Triton with the rasied front panel?

  2. Member
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    #2
    I haven’t personally but I remember a post about it a couple of years back. That guy made a base plate for the troller base that raised it up enough to clear the trim. I don’t recall the material he used though, might have been cutting board stuff.

  3. Member
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    #3
    I went to a hydraulic hose business that also sold mat rubber with many different thicknesses (1/4 inch to 2 inches). I purchased the thickness I needed and a little extra for the length and width I needed which I cut to fit in the boat shed. Looks good and provides a cushion between the TM bracket and the fiberglass hull.

  4. Member
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    #4
    Get a cutting board from Sams and cut a spacer plate to lift the trolling motor above the lip.
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  5. Member
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    Jan 2011
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    Webster South Dakota
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    #5
    I ran into this issue on my 99 201 Stratos. I too have a lip that forced me to install my Ultrex at an angle that causes the head to rest outside of the gunnel when stowed. I never even thought to add a spacer to help me clear the lip. I feel like quite the bone head now reading this post. I might have to give the a shot this winter.

    Do what these guys suggested if you're forced to and post some pics when you do it. I'd be curious to see how it looks raised a little.

    Good luck!

  6. Member jrich057's Avatar
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    #6
    Thanks for the ideas and info. Want to install it so the head is inside the gunnel, but if it impedes the rod locker I'll just have to let it stick out. Like the cutting board idea, last thing I would've thought of. Will have to make sure the factory screws are long enough. Unless I'm too ashamed of it, I'll try to post details and pics.

  7. Member jrich057's Avatar
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    Feb 2012
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    #7
    Installed. Thanks to everyone for all the help, especially the guy who took time to send me pics.

    First advice is get someone to help, tough job by yourself. Fairly simple, but also a fair piece of work. While not prohibitively so, the motor is heavy.

    Bought a nine dollar 1/2" thick cutting board, and six 1/4 x 3" stainless bolts to fit the 7/16" nuts that come with the motor. Filled in the old Motorguide holes with silicone a couple of days ago.

    Cut the board into 5 and 3/4" wide pieces, and doubled to get 1" of thickness. Used gorilla tape to hold the pieces together, they slip easy. The TM also slips on the board very easily. Did I mention get some help?

    Trimmed the inboard rear side of boards to avoid the curvature of the bezel, and allow them to lay flat (pic 1.) Note the trim looks crushed, but that is from the TM resting on it during fitment positioning, the mount clears the bezel/trim nicely.

    Viewed from the port side (pic 2). Can't see it in the pic, but trimmed the front of the boards at an angle to conform to the starboard gunnel.

    Mounted it far enough forward to clear the shaft/collar, and far enough starboard so it won't interfere with launch/trailering (pic 3). Note the tilt of the motor when deployed. If you use electronics for straight down drop shotting you may have to address that. Shims?

    Had to also mount it inboard enough so the head was inside the gunnel (pic 4).

    Used a 1/4 drill bit. Painful drilling holes in your boat, feels bad wrong. Of the 6 stock mounting holes, had to drill 2 new ones. The inboard rear hole was over a lip under the top cap, and the forward most starboard hole was not over flat surface. Directions call for a 9/32 drill bit which is a good idea if you can find one, the extra 1/32" would prolly make it a little easier.


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