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  1. #1
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    Rusted trailer fender bolts 2016 Z21

    I have a gripe about my Z21 now, well about the trailer that it sits on. I noticed the fiberglass fender brackets had become loose. In order to tighten them you have to remove the skid pads glued to the fenders. I discovered that they did not use stainless hardware to fasten the fenders on the trailer. A phillips head bolt was used, which made it extremely difficult to hold the bolt while removing the nut. They also did not use a washer for the bolt head and therefore the fiberglass was deteriorated some. The bolts were so rusted I had to use an air impact, a pipe wrench holding a #4 screw driver, pipe wrench blocked by a 2X4 to get them broke free. I didnt have anyone to help me so I had to improvise. Two of them I had to drill out. I replaced with all stainless hardware. Used a hex head bolt with flat washer at the bolt head. There is enough room in the recessed area for the hex head bolt. So if you notice your fenders getting loose, be prepared for what I encountered.
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  2. Member 1stindoor's Avatar
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    #2
    Yikes! Thanks. I have a 2016 Z21 as well. Appreciate the heads up.
    2016 Nitro Z21
    "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin

  3. Member
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    #3
    My right side fender is loose. Sounds like I'll be having to do the same thing. Thanks.

  4. Member
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    #4
    My 2016 Z21 trailer was the same. Both fenders were loose. Got lucky and the warranty covered all of it.

  5. Member
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    Insomnia, near Seaford Delaware
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    #5
    Maybe they figured it wouldn't ever get wet. Some bean counter saved the trailer company money for insisting on cheap standard hardware. You couldn't see the nut and bolts when you bought your pretty new boat and trailer.

  6. Member Florida1's Avatar
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    Spring Hill, FL
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    #6
    I’ve been slowly but surely changing all my HW on my trailer to SS
    2018 Nitro Z-19, 200 Merc Pro XS, Merc Monitor, SC Gauges, Lowrance/Humminbird Electronics, Humminbird 360, HydroWave.

  7. Member
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    Mar 2018
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    Lithia, Fl
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    #7
    I better check my z20, just bought it in February. Geez, why would they use Philips head.....smh

  8. Member grayline's Avatar
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    #8
    On a 2016? Id take that chit right back to them

  9. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #9
    the bolt is real long, grab it with a vise grip, then a wrench to turn the nut, no removing the traction pad, i did this on my 2015 last month
    Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089

  10. Member
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Fishysam View Post
    the bolt is real long, grab it with a vise grip, then a wrench to turn the nut, no removing the traction pad, i did this on my 2015 last month
    I just did the same along with some penetrating oil. Worked fine. Just had to lift the pad to get the bolts out.

  11. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #11
    Why take the bolts out? Unless the fender is getting replaced? The rust is the new loc tight
    Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089

  12. Member
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Fishysam View Post
    Why take the bolts out? Unless the fender is getting replaced? The rust is the new loc tight
    there was no getting a wrench w/ vice grips to hold some of mine, they were rusted solid. Had to use a air impact with socket to get them to move, 2 had to be drilled out. Rust induces more rust and then more damage and more work to fix it. Not to mention when you put those vice grips on the bolt you just trashed the threads. I guess if you can get them tightened back up, myb it will last for a while.

  13. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #13
    Yes the threads are thrashed 1" below the nut, I guess I see why you would replace the hardware but to me I only needed to tighten them. Is kinda sad that the proper hard ware was not used in the first place
    Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089