I know the forum has prolly been beaten to death with Ultrex threads, but I can't seem to dig up the right one. Have a 2000 TR21, and after my MG TM fouled the bed, I ordered an 80/45 Ultrex. Has anyone installed an Ultrex on their older TR21? I'm concerned because the front switch/finder mount and bezel sticks up. Looks like it may hinder the installation. Threads, pics, or any help would be appreciated.
I have one installed on a 2002 TR21. I can take some pictures this weekend or if you are in the area, stop by and take a look.
Thanks a lot. Too far for me to pop in, or I'd take you up on that. TM supposed to be delivered tomorrow, and I'll be working on it IMMEDIATELY, so don't worry about the pics. Does yours have a raised lip above the front switch/finder panel? If so, did you have to shim the TM mount? Pretty sure I can mount it okay, but not sure I can get it so the head of the TM doesn't stick out past the gunnel.
You might be OK since you got the 45". It has a smaller mounting footprint. I tried mounting a 52" and just didn't like all the problems (spacer needed, rod locker wouldn't open when TM stowed, cover wouldn't fit & 30 pounds heavier than my Terrova). Here's my old thread and keep us updated on how it fits.
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....060&highlight=
I hate the way those old Tritons are set up with the bezel coming up so high. Optimally you'll need a spacer, otherwise you'll have to mount it pretty far forward or at a weird angle.
'13 Triton 19SE 225 Pro XS
'09 Chevy Silverado Z71
Thanks guys, appreciate the input. Supposed to be delivered today, we'll see how it goes.
I'm figuring if I use a spacer so it mounts with the head completely inboard above the edge of the gunnel, the rod locker lid be blocked. We'll see how it goes.
You could use rubber spacer/washers. The thick ones to raise it up a touch to clear that front panel.
Yeah maybe. A little concerned it'll wiggle and not be stable enough if I use too much rubber. Another guy sent me some pics, and he had to cut the plastic shroud on the front panel a little to get it to work.
Maybe even some cut pieces of an old tire sidewall. That's kind of jiggering it though.
I helped mount one on a 1998 TR21 that my nephew just bought a couple weeks ago. It was the 36V 112 45" and we had no problems at all. We had the same concern. Not sure if yours is exactly like his though.....
Last edited by jkainoa; 08-10-2018 at 12:49 AM.
Thanks, maybe mine'll go on easy too. I'm prolly making too much of it, but the 'game changing' Ultrex is a sizable investment, and I want a quality installation.
Ive used the rubber bumpers up to 5/8 inch and they have worked great installing a fortrex. They work well. But you wont know till you dry fit it. Good luck. Keep us posted.
Thanks. Got an idea from the elec/TM page to use a cutting board for a spacer if necessary. Unless I'm too ashamed to share, I'll post some details and pics.
I bought a cutting and cut two pieces the width and length of the tM base. It worked perfect. You will need at least 1 inch space to clear the front molding.
I also moved the mounting location. I didn’t like the way the head of the Ultrex stuck out past my rubrail.
Grayson, were the stock bolts long enough? Did you have a problem with it blocking the port side rod locker with it mounted inside the rub rail?
In case anyone is watching for info. I PM'd Grayson with my questions, here is his response.
'I was able to use some of the bolts that came with the trolling motor. I had to buy 2 longer stainless bolts ( Lowe’s). I think almost 3 inches.
The head didnt block the rod locker opening.
My boat is a 01 tr 21'
Last edited by jrich057; 08-13-2018 at 01:32 PM.
Installed. Thanks to everyone for all the help, especially the guy who took time to send me pics.
First advice is get someone to help, tough job by yourself. Fairly simple, but also a fair piece of work. While not prohibitively so, the motor is heavy.
Bought a nine dollar 1/2" thick cutting board, and six 1/4 x 3" stainless bolts to fit the 7/16" nuts that come with the motor. Filled in the old Motorguide holes with silicone a couple of days ago.
Cut the board into 5 and 3/4" wide pieces, and doubled to get 1" of thickness. Used gorilla tape to hold the pieces together, they slip easy. The TM also slips on the board very easily. Did I mention get some help?
Trimmed the inboard rear side of boards to avoid the curvature of the bezel, and allow them to lay flat (upper left). Note the trim looks crushed, but that is from the TM resting on it during fitment positioning, the mount clears the bezel/trim nicely.
Viewed from the port side (upper right). Can't see it in the pic, but trimmed the front of the boards at an angle to conform to the starboard gunnel.
Mounted it far enough forward to clear the shaft/collar, and far enough starboard so it won't interfere with launch/trailering (lower left). Note the tilt of the motor when deployed. If you use electronics for straight down drop shotting you may have to address that. Shims?
Had to also mount it inboard enough so the head was inside the gunnel (lower right).
Used a 1/4 drill bit. Painful drilling holes in your boat, feels bad wrong. Of the 6 stock mounting holes, had to drill 2 new ones. The inboard rear hole was over a lip under the top cap, and the forward most starboard hole was not over flat surface. Directions call for a 9/32 drill bit which is a good idea if you can find one, the extra 1/32" would prolly make it a little easier.
Looks good. Now just be careful running the transducer cable.
Yeah. Turned out well.
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