Rewiring boat

[edge]

I'm rewiring the connections from my electronics directly to the batter. Could I use a heavy gauge extension chord and just cut off the ends?

[jprovencher80]

If you're going to invest the time in the project, do it right. Use proper marine grade duplex wire. If something goes south while you're underway you'll wish you had.

[edge]

What gauge do you suggest?

[jprovencher80]

What's the cable length you're running? What are you going to power?

[edge]

The boat is 21'3. Wiring fish finders, gps units.

[jprovencher80]

Are you using a fused distribution block at the helm?

[edge]

Direct from each unit to the battery.

[jprovencher80]

Is there a reason you're choosing to wire them that way vs a central power distribution center at the helm?

If you choose to run each directly from the battery, a 14/2 marine rated wire should be more than adequate.

[fishingfool820]

Humminbird recommends using 12 gauge wire for the helix 10. I run 12 gauge on both my graphs with a 3 amp blade fuse close to the battery. By running wires straight to the cranking battery you cut done on electrical interference on your graphs.

[D-wayne]

The helm distribution center is a great idea and will give you easy access to a fuse center for the ever increasing number of electronic devices that are being used.
Typically the trolling motor power lines are on the port side while the electronics wiring is on the Starboard side to minimize any EMF interference.
This way a single heavy service line can go to the helm from a fused battery link. Then smaller wires can be used to service the devices that are closer to the central fuse station.
Your graph with gps probably draws 2 -5 amps. Look up the proper size wire for braided wire ( https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge)
Seems like a lot of work now but future upgrades and or selling the boat will be a lot easier.
PS if you can solder all the connections you won't have to worry about loose or corroded crimped connectors

[billnorman1]

I'm rewiring the connections from my electronics directly to the batter. Could I use a heavy gauge extension chord and just cut off the ends?

Do you do a lot of trolling?

[fishnfireman]

I'm rewiring the connections from my electronics directly to the batter. Could I use a heavy gauge extension chord and just cut off the ends?

You can but I would not.
Its a little overkill But I ran dedicated, fused 10 gauge from battery to electronics

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Run a fused or breakered 8ga wire from the battery to a fused distribution block under the console. from there, run the 12ga to the depthfinders.

[Basshaker]

I did as Mr Jones suggests. 8ga from battery to fuze block in rod locker then 10ga to the birds. actually the console bird is just the power wire for unit as it was close enough. I have had no power issues with the units.

[edge]

I don't mind it being overkill by using the heavy guage extension chords. The Ancor Marine Duplex 10/2 wire is tough to find, and beyond expensive, more expensive than the heavy duty extension chord. Is there a disadvantage to using a heavy duty extension chord and cutting the ends off?

[Jonestrollingmotor]

When you say "heavy Duty" what is the wire size?

[Lou r Pitcher]

. By running wires straight to the cranking battery you cut done on electrical interference on your graphs.

A concept that the amount of electrical noise present at the boat's battery terminal connections is somehow cleaner and less amplitude than at the other end of a connected power wire is frequently offered in forums.

An oscilloscope though will show that the actual induced RFI present on directly connected power wiring is pretty much identical throughout the power circuit whether the RFI is measured at the battery or the bow or in-between.

If anything, the more power wires running the length of the boat back to a rear positioned battery, the more opportunities for RFI to be picked up by the boat's power wiring circuits and being introduced into RFI senstitive boat electronics.

[billnorman1]

A concept that the amount of electrical noise present at the boat's battery terminal connections is somehow cleaner and less amplitude than at the other end of a connected power wire is frequently offered in forums.

An oscilloscope though will show that the actual induced RFI present on directly connected power wiring is pretty much identical throughout the power circuit whether the RFI is measured at the battery or the bow or in-between.

If anything, the more power wires running the length of the boat back to a rear positioned battery, the more opportunities for RFI to be picked up by the boat's power wiring circuits and being introduced into RFI senstitive boat electronics.

True. With the advent of mass produced microtechnology, a large majority of us are fortunate to own a digital display VOM that far surpasses the old technology of a vacuum tube voltmeter.
On the other hand, few here will possess an oscilloscope or the training to interpret a screen reading. This may be coming in the future, but the future isn't now.
Bottom line: that's why there is shielding on a transducer lead. If it were that important the power wire would also be shielded.

In that case it may explain the recent use of Ferrite beads and chokes.

[86 inches]

I don't mind it being overkill by using the heavy guage extension chords. The Ancor Marine Duplex 10/2 wire is tough to find, and beyond expensive, more expensive than the heavy duty extension chord. Is there a disadvantage to using a heavy duty extension chord and cutting the ends off?

I would think you would want wire that is made for a marine environment. Individually tinned, fine stranded wire that resists corrosion and breakage with appropriate insulation to resist oils, moisture and heat. An extension chord gives you none of that.

[ifishinxs]

The helm distribution center is a great idea and will give you easy access to a fuse center for the ever increasing number of electronic devices that are being used.
Typically the trolling motor power lines are on the port side while the electronics wiring is on the Starboard side to minimize any EMF interference.
This way a single heavy service line can go to the helm from a fused battery link. Then smaller wires can be used to service the devices that are closer to the central fuse station.
Your graph with gps probably draws 2 -5 amps. Look up the proper size wire for braided wire ( https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge)
Seems like a lot of work now but future upgrades and or selling the boat will be a lot easier.
PS if you can solder all the connections you won't have to worry about loose or corroded crimped connectors

This is how you do it. 8 or 10 gauge marine grade wire to a central blue seas fuse panel Is the way to go.