Has anybody used these, interesting concept just wondering if they work? https://www.facebook.com/18730644874...3865908100004/
Has anybody used these, interesting concept just wondering if they work? https://www.facebook.com/18730644874...3865908100004/
They work fine, but nothing new
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
IMO they are the best splice and the only ones I use anymore.
There are a few tricks to doing it right.
Should be good but good crimp is going to prove more reliable method in a motion application.
You need clean virgin wire and the proper heat source to do it right. If you use oxidized wire, quite common on boats, your success rate will go way down.
I've overseen their use in the Defense Industry.
Zip ties can be your friend.Originally Posted by Lou r Pitcher
Pretty Slick. I will stick to solder and heat shrink.
It amazes me the crap people will use in their boat rather than just doing it right.
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
Care to elaborate as to what in your opinion is right??
IMO its hard to beat a soldered connection that is completely sealed with a 2 layer adhesive lined marine grade shrink tubing.
A properly crimped connection, of course.
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
They have been around since the '50's (mostly military apps) and then on to Aviation.
Some knuckle heads on FB thinks they solder will melt if the wire gets hot!
If your wires are getting that hot then the solder might be the least of your worries.
I personally use Penetrox on the wire, crimp all of the connections, and use heat shrink tubing on them.
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Not worried about the heat with solder connections...its the subjected vibration when attempted in a moving vehicle that eventually fractures the crystalline lattice structure of the delicate and relatively soft solder causing a bad connection.
This is the reason soldering is not recommended on this type wiring. Leave soldering to connecting wiring/electrical components to a stationary object such as a brush holder or PC board.
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If its soldered correct both wires become one and the solder is just as flexible as the wire. On a crimp not every strand is crimped. There will be a few loose ones which will start corrosion.
I don’t think it works that way.
Solder will wick into the spaces between the strands creating a solid section. It is here where the new solid wire meets the stranded wire that the risk of breakage is increased. This is specifically addressed in ABYC 11.14.5.7
A proper cold forged crimp will not have loose strands and is still the preferred connection recommended by ABYC. It just has to be done right: quality tin plated copper terminals with nylon insulation or adhesive lined heat shrink, quality ratchet crimpers and good technique. You can’t just use stuff from HD or HF.
This is a great resource: https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/
1994 201 Champ re-powered with a 250 HO G2 E250LHAFA 05438419
These barrel crimps with a glue heat shrink over it is the best way IMO. 100% water proof https://www.grainger.com/product/4FR...180810020319:s
2002 Tr-19 200 ox66
Those work great. Having said that I don’t buy into the crimp is the only way mentality in boating. Nothing beats a soldered and sealed connection. Crimps have failed and will continue to fail. I have NEVER had a soldered and sealed connection ever fail. I think some folks just Parrot what they hear or read without real life experience. Every time I trouble shoot an electrical issue it comes back to an improper crimp. An in-line splice soldered and sealed will never fail.
disclaimer; if you don’t know how to solder please use the proper crimp and crimp tool.
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Well said. About 25yrs ago a bad crimp cost me 2 grand. Since then everything gets soldered.
I know how to solder. I feel pretty good about my crimps too. Getting properly cleaned wire strands, not wicking, not having a connection move while cooling, and of course protecting a soldered connection from shorting you go through a lot more steps than installing a crimp properly. How many bass boat maintenance personnel do you think are certified in soldering, or have attended and passed an aerospace soldering school?
I'd say after I install a crimp splice the wire retains at least 80% of its tensile strength. There are, however, myriad inferior splices, crimping tools and poor techniques out there.
After all of this debate -- think I'll stick to my original replies -- After 30 years of marine wiring. I've ran the full gamut with electrical connections. From sorry open end crimps-- to crimps with there own heat shrink-- to plain crimps with a section of marine grade shrink tube---now to the ones asked about by the OP..... When done correctly with zip ties to support where needed. I see no need to change..
I was satisfied with crimps covered with a quality adhesive lined shrink tube.. Just felt the addition of solider was a plus !!
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