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  1. #1
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    Dual 12’ Talon question

    1. With 2 - 12’ talons and all brackets, do you think the weight could change preferred jackplate size by 1 size smaller?

    2. My boat (Charger 496) has the transom with the back corners cut off at 45 degrees. My talons are currently parallel to transom which makes them about 6-8” from back of boat and about 2-3” our past the 45 cut. Has anybody with similar transom, turned the brackets in so the talons are only 1-2” from the rub rail? I’d think it would help but not sure about the inward wing cup it would create. Does that sense?

  2. Member
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    #2
    My phoenix doesn't turn in as bad as the charger but I turned mine in so the follow the hull. The closer they are the less chance they will drag the water

  3. Member
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by kry29 View Post
    My phoenix doesn't turn in as bad as the charger but I turned mine in so the follow the hull. The closer they are the less chance they will drag the water
    I think I'm going to try it.

  4. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #4
    You should be fine doing that
    Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089

  5. Member
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    #5
    my biggest concerns were wind drag when running since it'll from a c cup kind of. might be totally irrelevant though and it will put them closer to the back deck fishing partner even though it will be slight

  6. Member Syncros's Avatar
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    #6
    If you mount the Jackplate brackets as high as they will go you should not have any part of it dragging while on plane. They will drag on your holeshot which is part of why most people reprop to get their holeshot back (the weight obviously impacts holeshot and top speed).

    You can try and mount the Elbow using the top hole instead of the top slot which will raise the bracket up another inch providing the bolt hole spacing on your jackplate allows this. This works on a manual Slidemaster jackplate.

    To answer your question, I've run the brackets reversed on my Ranger and did not notice any difference performance wise. And by reversed I mean the elbow that mounts to the jackplate reversed and the arm and flag angled to match the stern shape fairly close (the talon would block my boarding ladder if I followed it exactly).

    Part of the the no change could be because I'm in a 19.5 foot boat with a 225 on the back and I've always run either a Bravo or a Fury 4 prop. Talons killed the holeshot on my previous boat and a Bravo prop fixed that so I started with a Bravo on this boat (and now the Fury 4) and have idea how it would do with the stock Fury 3 blade.

  7. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #7
    Don't worry about the wind "cup" there is a pocket of air from the hull back there that is coming towards the bow already
    Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089

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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Fishysam View Post
    Don't worry about the wind "cup" there is a pocket of air from the hull back there that is coming towards the bow already
    That is interesting. Kind of like bed of pickup I guess.

  9. Member
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Syncros View Post
    If you mount the Jackplate brackets as high as they will go you should not have any part of it dragging while on plane. They will drag on your holeshot which is part of why most people reprop to get their holeshot back (the weight obviously impacts holeshot and top speed).

    You can try and mount the Elbow using the top hole instead of the top slot which will raise the bracket up another inch providing the bolt hole spacing on your jackplate allows this. This works on a manual Slidemaster jackplate.

    To answer your question, I've run the brackets reversed on my Ranger and did not notice any difference performance wise. And by reversed I mean the elbow that mounts to the jackplate reversed and the arm and flag angled to match the stern shape fairly close (the talon would block my boarding ladder if I followed it exactly).

    Part of the the no change could be because I'm in a 19.5 foot boat with a 225 on the back and I've always run either a Bravo or a Fury 4 prop. Talons killed the holeshot on my previous boat and a Bravo prop fixed that so I started with a Bravo on this boat (and now the Fury 4) and have idea how it would do with the stock Fury 3 blade.
    They aren’t close to dragging on plane. Probably drag for .5 - 1 second at beginning of hole shot and I think 1 drags on sharp turns but not 100% sure. I also think the way they are now with 6-8” gap it allows for enough water to get in between hull and bracket when setting it down off plane that it then pushes a little wave on/over the back of boat.

    This isn’t a complaint or even a problem, but more like asking a super model to change color of lipstick. Might move the needle a hair closer to perfection. Too easy to try it and move back to not experiment.