Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 21
  1. #1
    Member Red Lund's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,242

    Question/Help request regarding water in rear compartments and Perko Latch Adjustment

    Hey guys,

    I just picked up a 2018 521c with a 250 ProXS and 10 inch jackplate.

    I've been getting water in the rear compartments which I suspect is from waves coming over the back when coming off of pad. My main previous boat was a Z20 with a 225 Etech where you could come off pad on a dime without water on the back deck, but I am still learning that in this setup I need to goose it a little when coming off pad to escape the back wave.

    I remember most of the time, but keep forgetting which is when I get the back wave and wet compartments. I've plugged up the compartment drains to eliminate the chance that the water could be coming back up through the bilge drain when running and am 99% sure the wet compartments are from the water over the back.

    I had 2 question for my fellow Ranger guys:
    1. Appreciating that I will need to get in the habit when coming off plan to not have water come over the back, SHOULD the back compartments be waterproof in that situation or is it just too much to expect from that gasket setup up top at the lid?
    2. I'm going to try to snug up the Perko latches a tiny bit to tighten the lids against the gasket and had a dumb question - when I went to adjust the nuts, I can feel that I will need to give it some oomph and wanted to know if I can adjust it in the "locked position" where that crosspin would be holding it in place as I force the nut or should I adjust it in the "Open" positiion where I hold the latch handle with my hand as the resistance to tighten....I wasn't sure if I could break the cross pin or latch if doing it in the locked position, but it seems like it will be a lot easier that way.


    Sorry for the dumb questions and thanks for any insights/thoughts, very much appreciated!!!

    Thanks, RL

  2. Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Spring Hope,NC
    Posts
    7,253
    #2
    Those gaskets usually do a good job sealing but yours could be leaking. Check to make sure the drain hole in the gutter under the lids are open. To adjust the lock lever you’ll need to loosen the lock nut or set screw,whichever you have. Once loosened,turn the lever one turn clockwise and check for fit. Trial and error is the deal there. Lots of time,the lock itself will leak and I don’t know of any way to prevent that,they can leak around the cylinder.

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Spring Hope,NC
    Posts
    7,253
    #3
    Just thought,if you don’t have a plate on the bottom of your jack plate,get one. It will prevent the jack plate from scooping water as you settle down.

  4. Ranger Boats Moderator jc2bg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Findlay, Ohio
    Posts
    12,932
    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Rip Bass View Post
    Just thought,if you don’t have a plate on the bottom of your jack plate,get one. It will prevent the jack plate from scooping water as you settle down.
    Huge deal ^. I had a 2014 Z520c with dual poles and jack plate. With the plate on the bottom of my Atlas, it didn’t scoop a drop of water onto my back deck when coming off plane, although mine was an 8 inch plate. Sometimes small differences in how a hull rides in the water can affect backwash. Not saying that you should do this, but more weight loaded toward the front might help this problem, too. (Pluses and minuses there.)
    John Clark — Findlay, Ohio

  5. Member Red Lund's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,242
    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Rip Bass View Post
    Those gaskets usually do a good job sealing but yours could be leaking. Check to make sure the drain hole in the gutter under the lids are open. To adjust the lock lever you’ll need to loosen the lock nut or set screw,whichever you have. Once loosened,turn the lever one turn clockwise and check for fit. Trial and error is the deal there. Lots of time,the lock itself will leak and I don’t know of any way to prevent that,they can leak around the cylinder.
    thanks for all of the advice, much appreciated

    To adjust the locknuts, do you do it with the locks in the unlocked or locked position. In the unlocked position you would have to use your hand for resistance holding the lever, but the nuts didn’t move freely and I didn’t want to force it and it looked much easier to try in the locked position but didn’t know if I might break that cross pin that snuggs up and holds it in its final position.

    Thanks again

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    south carolina
    Posts
    973
    #6
    Do you have water in your livewell when this happens? If so take a water hose and spray around the inside top of livewell where it meets the deck. You'll find out real quick if that's where the leak is. That is where my 2018 rig is leaking from my storage boxes will not stay dry

  7. Member Red Lund's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,242
    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by jt c View Post
    Do you have water in your livewell when this happens? If so take a water hose and spray around the inside top of livewell where it meets the deck. You'll find out real quick if that's where the leak is. That is where my 2018 rig is leaking from my storage boxes will not stay dry
    It's happened with livewells empty and full so I don't think this is my issue.

    that said, I don't understand the design of the livewells (I have the 2 individual compartment lids, not the single with the sliding plastic) as there is no gasket under the lids....what is supposed to keep the water from coming out?

  8. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    south carolina
    Posts
    973
    #8
    It will come out in rough water I have never understood that design myself

  9. Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Spring Hope,NC
    Posts
    7,253
    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Red Lund View Post
    thanks for all of the advice, much appreciated

    To adjust the locknuts, do you do it with the locks in the unlocked or locked position. In the unlocked position you would have to use your hand for resistance holding the lever, but the nuts didn’t move freely and I didn’t want to force it and it looked much easier to try in the locked position but didn’t know if I might break that cross pin that snuggs up and holds it in its final position.

    Thanks again
    You’ll need to loosen the nut with the lid open and hold the lever with one hand,the lock isn’t strong enough if the nut is very tight.

  10. Member Red Lund's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,242
    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Rip Bass View Post
    You’ll need to loosen the nut with the lid open and hold the lever with one hand,the lock isn’t strong enough if the nut is very tight.
    thanks again....I was able to adjust all the compartments and think that was the issue. The latches weren't holding the compartments down enough to let the gaskets do their job.

    I'm hoping that along with the bottom plate I ordered for the jackplate (and better driving coming off pad) will fix my wet compartment issue

  11. Ranger Boats Moderator jc2bg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Findlay, Ohio
    Posts
    12,932
    #11
    That makes sense ^. The gaskets need to be squished a little to have full effect.
    John Clark — Findlay, Ohio

  12. Member Red Lund's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,242
    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by jc2bg View Post
    Huge deal ^. I had a 2014 Z520c with dual poles and jack plate. With the plate on the bottom of my Atlas, it didn’t scoop a drop of water onto my back deck when coming off plane, although mine was an 8 inch plate. Sometimes small differences in how a hull rides in the water can affect backwash. Not saying that you should do this, but more weight loaded toward the front might help this problem, too. (Pluses and minuses there.)
    I put the plate on the bottom of the Atlas and it eliminated ALL of the back wave which would come over almost the whole deck....thanks for the advice!!!

  13. Member Red Lund's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,242
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by jt c View Post
    Do you have water in your livewell when this happens? If so take a water hose and spray around the inside top of livewell where it meets the deck. You'll find out real quick if that's where the leak is. That is where my 2018 rig is leaking from my storage boxes will not stay dry
    Do you have the single lid with the sliding plastic in the livewell or the 2 separate lids?

    I think mine is causing me some issues as I dive into the compartment issue further and I'm wondering if its because I have the 2 separate lid set up vs. the single lid where the sliding plastic can control some/most of the splash.

    Thanks, RL

  14. Ranger Boats Moderator jc2bg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Findlay, Ohio
    Posts
    12,932
    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Red Lund View Post
    I put the plate on the bottom of the Atlas and it eliminated ALL of the back wave which would come over almost the whole deck....thanks for the advice!!!
    Really glad it worked out for you. I surely wish manufacturers wouldn’t play this game. Marketing 101, Lesson 1 seems to be this: don’t include anything more than absolutely, 100% necessary with your big-ticket item. Trolling motors without bounce busters and bass boats with minimal cranking batteries are additional examples.
    John Clark — Findlay, Ohio

  15. Member
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Northeast Michigan
    Posts
    860
    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by jc2bg View Post
    Really glad it worked out for you. I surely wish manufacturers wouldn’t play this game. Marketing 101, Lesson 1 seems to be this: don’t include anything more than absolutely, 100% necessary with your big-ticket item. Trolling motors without bounce busters and bass boats with minimal cranking batteries are additional examples.

    Absolutely agree. The list of "upgrades" that I had to give to my dealer was pathetic with the cost of these boats. The dealer also plays a big part in this and I'm glad I have a great one! My dealer installed items they knew I needed, but that I neglected to ask them about....one of which was the bottom plate for the jack plate....

    M

  16. Member Red Lund's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,242
    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by jt c View Post
    Do you have water in your livewell when this happens? If so take a water hose and spray around the inside top of livewell where it meets the deck. You'll find out real quick if that's where the leak is. That is where my 2018 rig is leaking from my storage boxes will not stay dry
    this is what it is after all the trial and error....you haven't had any luck caulking inside of the livewell where it meets the walls of the rear compartments?

  17. Airborne/Infantry bassnman81's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Lake Norman NC
    Posts
    5,778
    #17
    Red, I've been thinking about this for a few days. I have the two lid livewell like yours. The only way water could get in your hatch is because the seal is not getting compressed enough. Need to adjust the latch. You said you figured out that it wasn't coming from the livewell after all. If it was I would suggest checking the overflow hose for a blockage. If you noticed that when the livewell lids are closed they don't touch except in the front. The way the opening of the livewell is, sloped toward the opening around the edge tells me that it's designed to let water in. So, when water comes over the back or during a rainfall it or when fish are splashing about it gives most of the water on the back deck a place to go. Those little holes they drill don't do all that much. Hope I didn't overthink this, but it makes sense to me.


    Lake Norman, N.C./New Britain,CT.
    2000 R-81 Ranger, 2015 175 Pro-XS
    Disabled American Veterans, Life Member
    Vietnam Veterans of America, Life Member
    An Khe Vietnam, 66-67

  18. Member Red Lund's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,242
    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by bassnman81 View Post
    Red, I've been thinking about this for a few days. I have the two lid livewell like yours. The only way water could get in your hatch is because the seal is not getting compressed enough. Need to adjust the latch. You said you figured out that it wasn't coming from the livewell after all. If it was I would suggest checking the overflow hose for a blockage. If you noticed that when the livewell lids are closed they don't touch except in the front. The way the opening of the livewell is, sloped toward the opening around the edge tells me that it's designed to let water in. So, when water comes over the back or during a rainfall it or when fish are splashing about it gives most of the water on the back deck a place to go. Those little holes they drill don't do all that much. Hope I didn't overthink this, but it makes sense to me.
    I was wrong and the water is entering through where the livewell is connected to the deck and rear compartments, and not coming over the compartment gasket.

    The way to tell is to lock down the compartments and shoot water under the lip of the livewell with a hose and then water will enter both rear compartments.

    I'm waiting on Ranger to tell me the best product to use to seal up the livewell, but this is BS that I have to do this on a brand new boat as I live 4 hours from the nearest dealer.

  19. Airborne/Infantry bassnman81's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Lake Norman NC
    Posts
    5,778
    #19
    That's a whole different animal. I wouldn't fool with it. Take it back to the dealer and have them fix it right.


    Lake Norman, N.C./New Britain,CT.
    2000 R-81 Ranger, 2015 175 Pro-XS
    Disabled American Veterans, Life Member
    Vietnam Veterans of America, Life Member
    An Khe Vietnam, 66-67

  20. Member Red Lund's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,242
    #20
    Just to close the loop on this as it may help others.

    Ranger was aware that boats left the factory without livewells being sealed, and recommended to use 5200 to seal the livewells under the lips where it meets the seats and rear compartments.

    I had it done professionally and Ranger reimbursed me for the cost without issue.

    I've since ran the boat a ton with full livewells and the water issue in the rear compartments is completely gone. The 5200 will also flex which I think is important vs. the idea of having a fiberglass shop glass in the livewells, which I would concerned could cause other issues due to lack of flex.

    I also had water coming into my front center rod box and realized they didn't seal the front pedestal base properly with silicone. Once I re did the silicone where it needed to be, that compartment is dry as well.

    Frustrating for a brand new 2018 521c which is supposed to be the Cadillac of bass boats.....there were a bunch of other issues that needed to be addressed which should have all been caught in the QC process at the factory

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast