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  1. #1
    Member NJfishinGuy's Avatar
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    rewiring entire boat. tips/advice?

    im looking to tackle rewiring my entire boat. 1990 gambler 206. im sick of old messy birds nests of wires.. corrosion.. crap that isnt even connected to anything. thinking of buying one of the basic 12 slot fuse blocks with the grounding block built in. run a nice thick gauge wire from the battery to the block under my console and then create a harness to go out to everything else.. very simple and neat. maybe make myself a wiring diagram as well.

    any tips from guys who have done this. ideas to simplify the system maybe overlooked easily?

    where can i get some larger spools of wire in different colors so i can keep track of what everything goes too.

  2. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #2
    I don’t envy you.

    ABYC color code would be a good guideline. http://www.marinewireandcable.com/p/...lor-codes.html
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  3. Member
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    #3
    Use Marine grade wire. Don't rip any out until you've totally replaced that circuit and checked it out. Use good tools and splices and terminal lugs from good sources, not the cheap crap you get at Walmart in a kit.
    Buy a small dorm size refrigerator and a case of your favorite beverage.

  4. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #4
    1. Take your time.
    2. Take some pictures.
    3. Use quality stuff, especially MARINE grade shrink wrap.
    4. Wear long sleeve shirts and fingerless gloves.
    5. Make it a winter project and start doing yoga now !!!!

  5. Member
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    #5
    You can get a lot of good quality marine electrical supplies from Genuinedealz.com

  6. Member
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    #6
    Prayer

  7. Member
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    #7
    Get some quality tools, klein is a good brand. Use heat shrink w/ adhesive for all connections. Don't cut corners on connectors, if you don't have the right one, wait and get the correct one. Zip ties and split looming will clean it up really good, or can use the expandable sleeving (like the rod socks). Get some good labels to put on the wires. Color code wires as much as possible and keep it consistent for the whole boat. Leave room for expansion in the future for extra stuff that you might not be considering yet. Get quality switches/hardware, nothing worse than re doing a whole boat and having to replace all the switches in a few years.

    Good Luck!

  8. Member
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    #8
    I re-wired all my accessories... bought a Blue Sea Sytems ST blade fuse block (12 circuits) with negative bus and a Perko switch to turn power on and off to fuse block. Mounted it in the bilge area. This cleans up things real nice and you don’t have a crap ton of those stupid in-line fuses. It’s the way to go IMO. I’m running 2 graphs, 360, PP’s, network switch, and its half full.

    DJ
    2013 Skeeter 21i - 250 SHO

  9. Member
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    #9
    Draw a complete wiring diagram first, foresure

  10. Member
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    #10
    Greatlakesskipper usually has boat parts from manufacturers including wire switches panels and harness. https://greatlakesskipper.com/standa...ck-with-cables

    I’ve had good luck with their parts. I’ve baugt battery switches and terminal blocks. I ran new wires to things that matter and left the birds nests in my old boats. 84 Lund mr pike and 96 astro.

  11. Member
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    #11
    genuinedealz.com
    Excellent source for tinned wiring and they can custom make any larger gauge wire with lugs.

    Establishing a good layup plan for waterproofing all connectors.

    I use Ancor connectors and their brand name ratchet crimper, then cover with adhesive lined shrink tube. It's like hot glue inside the tube that melts and creates a full waterproof connection.
    I tried the harbor freight crimper and cheap Amazon connectors. Just spend the money and get the brand name tools/connectors. They are thicker metal and tend to hold much better.
    A good heat gun is also a must.

    Recommend pulling all lines in a tube at one time. Helps limit possible damage to line from friction, tension.

    Try to run the bow graph power and network lines on the opposite side of the boat as the trolling motor power. Isolate the graphs lines as much as possible to avoid interference.
    Graphs should be direct wired or wired through dedicated switch if you need a switch.

    Don't forget the fuel sending unit wires, they tend to corrode.

    Take lots of pictures for reference.

  12. Member edwonbass's Avatar
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    #12
    Before you go ripping it all out keep in mind that old wires can be used to pull new wires through. It can be hard with heavier wire though.

  13. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by edwonbass View Post
    Before you go ripping it all out keep in mind that old wires can be used to pull new wires through. It can be hard with heavier wire though.
    A good trick is to tie some heavy cord to an old wire as you remove it. Make it long enough to go both ways and still have some left.. When done leave it in place.. You may need it again at a later time.

  14. Member
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by fishnfireman View Post
    A good trick is to tie some heavy cord to an old wire as you remove it. Make it long enough to go both ways and still have some left.. When done leave it in place.. You may need it again at a later time.
    As long as you're pulling wires through, it doesn't hurt to pull a few full extra boat length wires along with the ones presently in use. In the instance you add a new circuit, they will already be there. Use white, or something with a color code not used elsewhere.

  15. Member NJfishinGuy's Avatar
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    #15
    all great tips guys. thanks