TB, ain’t no body got time for that, was in relation to having to run the unit in manual.
The 2d that you used deep water settings for, you know 20+ ft, was in 19.6. It’s amazing how much difference 6 inches makes.
Whats the name of your friends business?? If you have access to multiple units side by side daily, why not do some side by side shots with them. Let’s compare the images side by side!
Im sure you would like to promote it and help him out!
Last edited by Hickory Legend; 07-16-2018 at 09:30 AM.
.ive used raymarine probably as much as you have. i have a very good friend who owns a marine install business. we run boats with multiple units installed almost daily. i also have unlimited access to all electronics with boe
Last edited by Hickory Legend; 07-16-2018 at 09:31 AM.
so you're saying that you never change your sensitivity, pallet, contrast or anything. you should never leave any unit in full auto. there is no such thing as manual mode or auto mode. as far as i know there is no unit that offers an auto setting for these settings. a default setting as a starting point, yes. but not auto. auto would imply the unit is changing the setting on it's own for a given condition. such as garmin's auto scroll speed that automatically matches scroll speed to boat gps speed. they are one of the few if not the only one to offer that feature. you can't even control scroll speed on navico units. maybe you are simply using the wrong wording? i could use my units on default settings all day long and get perfectly acceptable results. but why would i when i can improve them very easily by simply turning 1 knob or touching one option with my finger. pretty easy stuff. you act like it takes hours to change a setting.
the 6 inches of water depth has nothing to to with those results. the sensitivity for the time of day does. i wasn't concerned with 2d, i was simply getting a screen shot of the engine data for my records
edit
ive asked my buddy several times for permission to share comparisons. he doesn't want to get involved and won't allow me to use images from customer boats. I'd do it myself but a bass boat is not a proper platform to do such testing. if you want to supply a center console, I'll supply the units and labor for installs. we could make a business out of it.
Last edited by TroyBoy30; 07-16-2018 at 09:51 AM.
lol OK!ive asked my buddy several times for permission to share comparisons. he doesn't want to get involved and won't allow me to use images from customer boats. I'd do it myself but a bass boat is not a proper platform to do such testing. if you want to supply a center console, I'll supply the units and labor for installs. we could make a business out of it.
I for one appreciate TB's input on BBC on this and other forums. I too have never seen or heard of any depth finder by any manufactory that never needs any adjusting. I may not always agree with his opinion but I really appreciate that he is willing to express his and reasons behind it.
So not sure how a screen shot gives out any customer info or privacy info
Not sure why you don’t list your buddies shop?
The biggest is how a MFD knows what kind of boat it’s plugged into?
But here is a 24ft pathfinder with a Raymarine A128 and a CP200 that we can use when ever you want to come up with a mega unit!
Don’t need an install we can mount the transducer on a 2x4 and hang it off the transom and just wire up the power.
Unless the bird knows it’s not mounted to a CC!
I’m home all of July!!
Hickory I wished you lived closer to Virginia, I would love to spend the time with you on the water comparing images from all 4 of the major manufactures. I'm sure it would be a learning experience for all. Guess though you would have to have someone on board who knows how to get the best images from each unit. Factory defaults are a good starting place but most units need a little tweaking depending on current water/weather conditions. Would really love to see something like this done, could help us all.
Yes your correct, most guys are always tweaking their setting to get the best possible picture.
I just don’t have time for that this time of the year fishing drops.
Im in 8 ft of water then move 10ft and I’m in 40 ft.
Spring and fall I’m either fishing the banks and don’t really use it or hitting surfacing fish, thus where a drone would be nice.
Most of the time I’m just looking for structure not really fish, find the structure find the fish!
But maybe that’s why I don’t fish for a living. Because I see fish and they don’t always bite. That really makes one mad!!
Wrong yet againyou can't run any unit in AUTO for anything except depth. yours included.
And from Raymarines own website
ClearPulse™ signal processing intelligently manages the CP370 sonar parameters in all conditions so anglers can spend more time fishing and less time adjusting the sonar.
Here is the auto of the down and 2D
Here is showing the kind of fishing Im doing.
Five feet dropping to
32 plus feet, in a matter of ft. No I don't want to be bending over the bow of my boat to keep adjusting the unit as I go deeper or shallower. Plus your out on the main channel with Wake board boats and cruisers coming right by.
Last edited by Hickory Legend; 07-21-2018 at 04:39 PM.
My shots where just to show you the auto, and the depth change. I simply put the boat in went out and snapped the shots before the storm last night. So there isn’t a subject or object I had.
I may have to adjust my unit at the start of the day depending on water conditions and I may have to adjust my color palette once when the sun gets up high and is shining directly on the screen. Definitely not something I'm changing constantly. I also am fishing drops this time of year so depth changes happen fast.
Sorry I had to edit post 32 with Facts
So you’re saying the unit controls all settigs for 2d, side and down? What settings? Sensitivity, contrast, range, brightness? That may explain the poor images. I’ve never seen anyone that suggests to run a unit on auto. In fact, exactly the opposite. Again the only things those who adjust settings are changing is usually sensitivity. Most don’t go from very deep to very shallow. You fish one or the other. If I’m out in 30 ft I run max mode and lower sentivity. If I want to go shallow I would simply change to clear mode and adjust sensitivity higher for conditions. It takes 2 seconds. 1 icon push and a twist of the wheel. Both are done from the main screen without even accessing the settings. I’ll also adjust side imaging sensitive based on bottom composition. Turn it down for hard bottoms and up for silted. Pretty easy stuff.
Last edited by TroyBoy30; 07-21-2018 at 06:01 PM.
If you want it to, if not you can play with it all you want!!Originally Posted by TroyBoy30
So your saying my images above are poor??
But as you can Clearly see in the 2D and Side vision the Gain and intensity is in AUTO!!
Last edited by Hickory Legend; 07-21-2018 at 09:14 PM.
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