1999 Ficht 150 help?

[Mike D.]

So we were out on the lake yesterday, and motor ran like never before. New lift pump, replaced h/p pump! go thru light sequence, wait for h/p pump to stop. Fired right up last 3 days ! ideated out to deep water, just ready to get her going from idle ! just put my hand on the throttle and it quit ! No warning nothing ! When you try. to start it only winds up, but faster than if she is getting fuel/spark ! What could cause this ? I check the fuses in the power block everything there appears fine !

[JR19]

There is a sticky thread at the top that often gets overlooked. I understand because even I don't look at them often. However in your case this one is important because there were changes made mid production on the 1999 Ficht's so a model number is a must when talking about a 1999 Ficht. Hopefully you have a tech that has knowledge about Ficht motors. The Ficht line was only around a short period of time and it's 20 year old technology so any "new" to the business tech has little or no knowledge of them. Some parts are very hard to find. It can also get expensive if their throwing parts at it and not troubleshooting the root cause.

When asking a question about a motor keep this in mind...http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=3454

[Danrude]

Several things can cause those symptoms: Bad crank position sensor; the big blue capacitor is bad; bad power distribution panel (cold solder joints); no fuel pressure.

[Mike D.]

Thank you all ! Jr the motor had/has all the up dates Serial no. G04615049. Model E150FPLEEA. Also the guys I bring it to, are amazed at how clean, and well maintained the motor is (not by me). By original owner. All up dates were done properly I'm trying to keep same regime going.
Danrude how do I 1. check crank position indicator 2. check the capacitor. I saw that about the solder joints ! Do I just take and undo it from the block?Why would I loose pressure with new pumps ! When it did start it would crank 3-4 revolutions, and, to me then it would start with a bark ! (very aggressive). Note before h/p pump it was like waiting for it to wind up to start. Start the die then do it again, then the 3 time if you fiddled the throttle a little it would stay running. Now until this I would just hit switch, wait till lights and h/p pump did their, and turn switch and crank, then hrrrummm, and it was running no stumble just purring!
So now am thinking of going with a new e/tech 150 next yr. just really like the motor!

[Danrude]

You will need a factory service manual to perform the various tests, you can download one for approximately $13.00 just look in the sticky post above.

[Mike D.]

Hi Danrude ! I have the manual ! Got in 2013! Just got back in from lake ! Haven't looked at the motor since my original post! I tried to start it when we got home about 1 1/2 hrs ago. It turned over no problem, then it coughed ! I tried again, same thing ! I took plugs out turned it over to see if excess fuel in cylinders stbd side lower plug hole pushed out some vapor, that was all ! I cleaned the plugs, reinstalled, tried again same thing! Pulled plugs wet with fuel, so I am assuming pumps ok ! High pressure winds right up, till pressure up then shuts off ! I took power dist panel off unplugged everything on it wires fuses relays ! All looks OK? On another post here you all talk about taking the power dist panel apart to check solder joints as you posted above! Are you talking about taking the panel apart, and if so how ? I tried to gently separate the lower from the upper, but it does not appear that this can be done with out wrecking the panel! ? Am I correct ? Why would the motor cough now, and not do anything before at the lake other than turn over!?

[Danrude]

The back of the PDP can be pried off then when you put it back on it will need to be glued. If the motor cough is when you first turn the key to start then check the blue capacitor.

[Mike D.]

Hi Danrude ! Yes that is what is does ! I turn the key to let the system come up go through it's checks wait for the lights, then the h/p pump to run up, then turn the key ! I get about 3 revolutions, then it coughs, and that is it, every time same thing! My understanding from looking for a capacitor is they are no longer available ! That means used? I saw 1/some on e-bay ! How would I know if they are good! Do you have a trusted sight for 1 of these if that is the problem? Mike

[Danrude]

Part# 3010206. www.boats.net/catalog/evinrude

[Mike D.]

Hi Danrude
So I just did the capacitor check as manual said ? Checked battery 12.68 volts, volt meter @ 20 volts, black lead to motor ground, red lead to fuse 5 ! I get a reading of 11.3 volts? turn off bat. switch, and voltage drops, but not very fast (define fast) took longer than about 1/2 volt per second ? This means it is not the capacitor ? Checked sight I see it there thank you !
Ok so wifie said get some chores done or else ! Will have to look tomorrow or later in the week !

[Mike D.]

Hi Danrude or anyone else that can give more info ! !So I timed the voltage drop and it took 3 mins to go from 11.38 v to 4 v is that a normal drop or is there something wrong with the capacitor, or somewhere else ! Also resistance for capacitor was .400 ! Voltage at 1,2,3,5,6 are all the same with key on # 4 is at full bat voltage ! In book it says 2,3,6 should be about 1 volt less so those are ok ! Mike

[TOONABASSER]

I have this part-Part# 3010206 off a 1999 150 with 86 hrs failed due to bearing on crank- $100 tyd

[Mike D.]

Hi Toonabasser ! I'll let you know ! still trying to get an answer as to speed of drain down question ! Mike

[Danrude]

To check the capacitor remove both leads from it momentarily ground each lead to discharge it. use an ohmmeter set to high ohms and put a leads on each terminal. If the capacitor is good the resistance will climb to nearly infinity, if the meter immediately goes to full continuity the capacitor is shorted, if it shows no continuity it is an open circuit.

[Mike D.]

Thank you Danrude ! I'll let you know what I find out Friday ! Gotta go to Boston tomorrow to find out if the cancer is back ! Peace Brother !

[Mike D.]

Hello Danrude ! Had a chance before wife came home, it goes from 004 right to 000 on the meter ! So it is junk ! Would Toonabasser's be ok to buy ? or would you go new ? Not trying to start anything just have never dealt with using used electrical components ! regards Mike

[Danrude]

Hello Danrude ! Had a chance before wife came home, it goes from 004 right to 000 on the meter ! So it is junk ! Would Toonabasser's be ok to buy ? or would you go new ? Not trying to start anything just have never dealt with using used electrical components ! regards Mike

The price is right, go for it.

[Mike D.]

Hi Danrude ! I appreciate all the help ! You guys are the best ! I'll you all know how it turns out, when I get part and put it back together ! regards Mike