Fortunate enought to have a new spot to put my boat, however it takes some manuvering to back into where it needs to be stored. I am trying to use a small forklift with a ball mounted on the forks. Today I realized the surge brakes kick on when the lights are not hooked up and you are backing up. Could be a dumb question, but is there an easy way to override the brakes???
put a hot wire on coming off the forklift. Run it to the blue wire on the boat plug. connect/disconnect as needed. It will disengage the surge actuator.
There is not a second place to put the coupler pin?
Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089
Not that I can remember seeing. 2018 EZ Load TrailerOriginally Posted by Fishysam
If you have an A60 coupler, these work great!
https://m.ebay.com/itm/MAGNETIC-LOCK...-/120941559235
They are on Amazon too.
USN Retired
2020 Basscat Caracal
2020 Mercury 225 ProXS 4s
In a pinch I have stood a large hex nut up in the slot on the side of the coupler. This keeps the coupler from compressing and actuating the surge brakes.
9/16 socket
This will help
https://www.amazon.com/UFP-Lockout-B.../dp/B006UH6DDA
The socket behind the pin would work the best in a pinch. If it happens to you on the road take two nickels and tap them in behind the pin them take some black tape and wrap around the tongue to hold them in place爛
This....I keep one attached to the trailer....Just in case.
Somewhere on the side of the tongue of the trailer where the surge brake cylinder is located there should be a slot. This is where you insert what has been posted in the above links. When the "key/tool/whatever its called" is in the slot it will not allow the tongue to compress and apply the brakes. A lot of boat trailers have the lock out device you need attached to the tongue on a chain or cable that is typically just long enough to reach in the slot. When moving with a forklift this is the easiest way to prevent the brakes from applying if your trailer has that feature. My trailer is 1999 and it has that feature. Most boats trailers since then also have it so I see no reason why a 2018 trailer would not also have that feature.
Just remember to remove the device so your brakes are not disabled all the time. I know a guy who did not know what the device was for. I was looking at his boat in the parking lot one day at the lake and noticed his brakes were disabled. I ask him if he knew his brakes were disabled and he looked at me like I was crazy so I explained why. He had owned the boat for 6 months and had been driving it the entire time with the brakes disabled. The day he bought the boat he had to backup a gravel driveway at the house where he bought the boat. He said the brakes locked up when backing up the incline. The guy selling him the boat had him stop and he went to the tongue and inserted the key. The guy buying the boat had no idea what the seller done so he just thought the trailer light plug came undone. He said he thought it was odd that the guy told him not to forget to unplug "it" when he got home. He thought the "it" he was talking about was the trailer wires and just shrugged it off. He pulled that trailer for 6 months with no brakes not knowing the difference. I removed the plug and he drove off. Latter that night he called to thank me saying his truck/boat stopped such much better...my reply was yes they stop better when you have brakes
You can run a 12V jumper wire from the forklift battery + to the blue side of the trailer plug and disable the brakes via the solenoid that engages when the blue wire is hot. On your tow vehicle the blue wire is only hot when in reverse. You may or may not get ground through the trailer ball. If no ground from the ball/trailer connection then you need to run a jumper wire from the frame of the lift to the white ground wire on the trailer plug. This will not be hard but its a ton more aggravating than just simply installing a device that disables the brakes.
Buddy of mine always used a big C-clamp to keep his brakes from engaging.
1. A 12 volt source to the blue wire.
2. Anything that can be placed in the slot to keep the actuator from compressing.
3. They also make a metal cap which replaces the plastic reservoir cover that when twisted a quarter turn stops the actuator from compressing. Some boats come with this accessory already installed on the A60.
Make a battery pack and plug it in.
I have a backup supply of 1/2 nuts and some electrical tape. Put nut behind the pin that slide back and stick a piece of electrical tape on it to hold it in place. Or get the backup key from amazon, have one of those and it works great
Insert the UFP lock out into the slot and place any substantial magnet (off an old speaker) over it to hold in place. Remove when done and stick magnet to tounge. No cost. No one will steal it.
thats a great way to do it,i have the other style but like this one better
Insert the UFP lock out into the slot and place any small substantial magnet (off an old speaker or other) over it to hold in place. We all have a couple of these magnets stuck to a tool box or laying around.
Remove when done and stick magnet to tounge. No cost. No tape. No clamp. No BS. And it's unnoticeable so no one will steal it. The tounge lock pin and the lock out are both attached to a small SS cable on the actuator right where you need them.
Hit button:
Last edited by mikesxpress; 07-07-2018 at 06:13 AM.
https://www.easternmarine.com/ufp-br...kout-cap-34359
can't get much simpler.. Surprised they don't come standard on all boats.
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