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  1. #1
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    Building Crankbait rod

    Hey there, folks. I'm going to be building my first crankbait rod and was wondering what some of the 'features' are that people prefer on crankbait rods. What i'm thinking so far:

    - Obviously longer rod. Looking at a 7'9" Phenix blank
    - Longer handle / split handle (for more leverage for longer casts)

    If the guides had a larger-than-normal inside diameter, would that increase casting distance?

    Any other tips folks would be willing to share?

  2. Member basscatcher89's Avatar
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    #2
    Far as the guides goes there's a whole bunch of research and test out there. But smaller guides/micros would probably help more than larger. Not exponentially it would be marginal. But from my understanding after reading through a lot of it. You want to get the line under control off the reel quicker to minimize line slap in the guides and that will help to increase distance.


    The rest of it looks good. Just make sure when your setting up you grip length that your doing several dry tests with it in your hands and make sure its comfortable to hold. It might be good for leverage while casting but if it sucks to hold all day while you crank it can be miserable.

  3. Member
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    #3
    Longer rods do generally cast further, but consider rod storage in your boat. I've switched to using all micro guides, I believe they make a positive difference, not only in casting distance but also decrease weight of the finished rod. The smallest I feel comfortable with for wrapping ease and fishing durability would be a size 4 or 3, depends on brand. Having a handle too long can be a problem, especially if you cast right handed and then switch to left hand (or vise versa). If the handle is too long the butt will hit your abdomen when moving from one hand to another. Adding clothes like a rain suit or jacket compounds the situation. Just my 2 cents.

  4. Member
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    #4
    These guys are spot on as to why you need to be very aware of your rear grip length. As far as guide sizes go .... definitely micro guides in the running section of the guide train. Not only because they control the line better, but also because crankbait blanks oscillate more in their tip and mid sections than a mag bass blank does. The lighter your guides are in that portion of the rod blank, the more rapidly the oscillation subsides. And that translates into longer casts. I'm sure results vary, but in my experience, micro guides add 20' or more in casting distance.

    One other thing to consider is your type of hook keeper. I personally like a drop shot hook keeper on my crankbait rods. I don't use the keeper to hold the bait, I use it to slip the loop of my snap over when I don't have a bait on. If I have a bait on I'm hooking the rear treble on to my reel.

  5. Member
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    #5
    I do like smaller guides but not necessarily micros. The smallest I use on a baitcaster is 5.5 ring. It's more of a preference thing plus my eyes are going. Anyway use whatever you want in terms of your running guides but I wouldn't advise using a micro for your stripper, doesn't have the height. You want that line to stay up enough off the blank before it hits that stripper. Use something like a Fuji KWAG, you can get them down to a 5.5 I think. I usually use an 8.

  6. Member
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    #6
    willwork4fish brings up a good point. My stripper guide is almost always a #6, helps with alignment of line as it leaves the reel. For no particular reason I use a double-foot for the stripper. Then I use all single foots; 5,4,3 etc. Again depending on guide brand I may use 5,4 etc.

    I guess another consideration would be the material the blank is made with. For me fiberglass is just too heavy. I prefer a "blend" blank like the MHX Crankbait series. I'm not trying to steer you away from Phenix or towards MHX, just giving you something to reference to.

  7. Member
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    #7
    Scatterbrained today. Think about your reel seat. I have found that some reel seats fit my hand different when I am cranking/spinner baiting. For me, reel seat I use for flipping is not comfortable cranking all day.

  8. Member
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    #8
    I built 2 light crankbait rods on a Rainshadow CB70M and now working on my second CB76MH. Nice economical blanks that perform very well. The 7'-6" Rod will cast a mile even spooled with 20#. I've bee using #6 running guides and they work well for me.

  9. Member
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    #9
    Will makes a great point about your stripper guide in terms of its height. Too short and it causes your line to enter the guide at a more extreme angle. That angle causes friction, and friction robs you of casting distance. My cranking reels are older Curado 200 Bs and Ds so they're a little taller (pawl guide to rod blank) than the newer Curados and similar reels. As such I use a 10 (Fuji LN) as my butt guide. As a personal preference, I still use the old standard 3 double foot guide reduction train on all my casting rods. For one it just looks right, two, a heavier guide in that portion of the rod blank doesn't hurt you as much performance wise, as weight in the running guide section of the blank does, and 3, and more importantly, the double foot carries more height further down the rod blank. That extra height usually means fewer running guides. I go #10, #8, #6 double foot LNs for the reduction train, and 4.5 Ls for the running guides.

    And I'm with Bushbeater .... The Rainshadow crankbait blanks are awesome, and a great price. As far as fiberglass versus graphite goes ..... a few years ago I could understand the want of a fiberglass blank for cranking, but not in this day and age. Blank manufacturers have gotten it down to where the graphite blanks, even the 100% graphite blanks are right there with the fiberglass blanks of today, and yesteryear. I don't know about the other blanks being mentioned, but try one of the Rainshadow CB blanks. You'll love it.

  10. Member
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    #10
    The very first guide is on your reel, the stripper guide need not be taller than the reel guide itself. I believe also the spiral wrap is the way to get more distance and less fatigue on the angler. In my opinion the spiral wrap could have saved a lot of wrist, arm and shoulder ailments over the lifetime of a fisherman. Too bad the idea never took off many years ago.

  11. Member bob o's Avatar
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    #11
    i built the same two blanks, they are everything you say and more. the 7'-0" is am awesome squarebill rod
    Quote Originally Posted by Bushbeater View Post
    I built 2 light crankbait rods on a Rainshadow CB70M and now working on my second CB76MH. Nice economical blanks that perform very well. The 7'-6" Rod will cast a mile even spooled with 20#. I've bee using #6 running guides and they work well for me.

  12. Member
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by D.O.C. 989 View Post
    The very first guide is on your reel, the stripper guide need not be taller than the reel guide itself. I believe also the spiral wrap is the way to get more distance and less fatigue on the angler. In my opinion the spiral wrap could have saved a lot of wrist, arm and shoulder ailments over the lifetime of a fisherman. Too bad the idea never took off many years ago.
    Couldn't agree more. Every casting rod I've built/used over the past 15 years has been twisted.