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  1. Pat Goff
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Seadrift TX
    Posts
    10,942
    #21
    Ok...
    Your boat was certainly built for a 20" transom.
    Now...Things I don't like:
    That jack plate? Is that an old land and sea hydraulic that's been pinned down? That's your issue right there, it doesn't have clearance to miss your steering cables. Choices:
    A: get a 6" rapid jack and never worry about that again.
    B: 2" spacers will *probably* work to move off the plate and transom.
    Choice A would be highly recommended.
    Low water pickups. Sigh... that's not helping you at all. But it looks like a welded unit and you're sorta stuck with it.
    I HATE whale tale thingies. Lets get you setup so you can yank that junk off your boat.
    That props gotta go pards, it's a 20" you will need at least a 24/25. Look for a OMC renegade, or Powertech TR04. Or Merc trophy with the johnrude hub kit.
    It's going to be a nice smooth 63-65 mph boat. But it needs a chance.




    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

    [SIGPIC][<a href=http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=583&dateline=1498828542/SIGPIC] target=_blank>http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?t...828542/SIGPIC]</a>

  2. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    22
    #22
    Currently that whale tale is the only way it gets up on a plane decently as it is now. I have to admit it is a good step for the kids getting out of the water when skiing and tubing... lol. As far as the low water pickup I would prefer the standard too. I've picked up lots of sand by accident in the sand pits where we do a lot of boating. I'd be happy swapping lower units someone who wants a low water pickup. Do you think the jackplate is the savior of the whole problem I have (besides a better prop)? The prop I have now is what I bought for my old Johnson 200. Again...no training, knowledge on my part just trial and error when it comes to purchasing stuff for the boat. I'm glad I found this site. Looking through the forum it looks like there's a lot of knowledge floating around here.

  3. Pat Goff
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Seadrift TX
    Posts
    10,942
    #23
    That plastic thing is a band aid that covers up a bad setup.
    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

    [SIGPIC][<a href=http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=583&dateline=1498828542/SIGPIC] target=_blank>http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?t...828542/SIGPIC]</a>

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    22
    #24
    I havent done anything yet with my prop or jack plate issue yet since its winter but I did refinish my boat a couple months ago. While not a professional job by a body shop I think I did a pretty fair job. I still have to do the interior yet but at least itll be lookin good out there on the water. I could have used more flake but it l think it turned out well.
    https://ibb.co/album/iEpzaa

  5. Pat Goff
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Seadrift TX
    Posts
    10,942
    #25
    Oh man....
    that’s a true dinosaur plate haven’t seen a land and sea in operation in twenty years.

    Bad news? They weren’t very good when it was new.
    Someone stuck a nose cone on? That’s costing mph.
    And then there’s the xl shaft.

    More bad news. Sorry.
    That’s a Travis hull. That means it’s a plywood transom. That means it can’t take much setback.

    If you were a neighbor and brought it to the house, I’d make sure it got on plane in a reasonable time and tell you to just enjoy your time on the lake. I wouldn’t spend a nickel or worry about it again.
    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

    [SIGPIC][<a href=http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=583&dateline=1498828542/SIGPIC] target=_blank>http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?t...828542/SIGPIC]</a>

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    22
    #26
    Hi pat, what did you mean stuck a nose cone on it? How much of a setback could ingest away with? Is it worth it? I spent a grand on paint supplies and plan to hand it down to my son at some point in a few years. I'll probably have a grand in nee seats as well but I haven't done that yet. Would a steel or aluminum plate reinforcing the back of the transom help any?

  7. Pat Goff
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Seadrift TX
    Posts
    10,942
    #27
    There's a land and sea nose cone on the lower unit. Why? I have no clue, but there it is.
    What I'm trying to say, any money you spend on trying to improve performance is probably going to be a waste. Making the transom tougher is a good idea, it's always suspect.
    If you're somewhat happy with the way it's running, leave it alone.
    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

    [SIGPIC][<a href=http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=583&dateline=1498828542/SIGPIC] target=_blank>http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?t...828542/SIGPIC]</a>

  8. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    22
    #28
    I got ya. I repowered with this motor a couple years ago now. The guy who I bought it from said he had the lower water pick up installed so that he could run shallower waters for his bass fishing tourneys he was in. I didnt know at the time but I dont like it....picks up too much sand in the sand pits we boat in. I have to be extra careful now. The motor that was on it when I bought it was a 25" shaft....thus this new one doesnt trim out quite as good as the older one did (at least that's my perspective of it) which is why I started this thread. I think I just need to try the prop down a little more which is why I thought a setback jackplate might help that issue. Hmm..maybe I cant fix the issue with this motor. If i kept the old jackplate i would love to find out where i could either trade or buy a 25" shaft and standard lower unit to replace the 20"er that I have on now. I feel it did handle and trim out alot better with the longer shaft.

  9. Pat Goff
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Seadrift TX
    Posts
    10,942
    #29
    Shaft length was wrong when you had the 25" motor on it, you had it so buried in the water it probably felt really numb and loose, and the prop, even though it's not right did all it could do.

    If you really want to give it the potential:
    Find a good 22 Raker prop.
    Install your plate for the transom.
    Get a 6" rapid jack plate, set it at 4" prop shaft under pad.
    If you're really feeling frisky, you can take the nosecone off, it really depends on what they did to the original intakes, if it's welded then don't touch it, but usually guys use JB weld to shut them off, you can take that off with a heat gun.

    If you just want to get a prop and not swap plates, a 23 renegade will work too.
    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

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  10. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    22
    #30
    For the average boater, is there a real need to put a hydrolic jack back on to replace the old one or is a statistic jackplate just as effective? I like the idea of having a vehicle lift but I dont know that it's truly a necessity?

  11. Pat Goff
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Seadrift TX
    Posts
    10,942
    #31
    They are nice for two reasons
    Raising the motor to go through stump fields
    Lowering the motor in really bad water.
    Rest of the time you won’t touch it.
    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

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