Looking for a lil clarity on engine height

[Rebsfan4]

I have 2014 Tracker 175 TF. Engine is mounted in lowest position, as it came from the factory. I've read countless opinions about engine height positioning. Most opinions come with added info and personal opinions as to what they would do, as far as add on and/or upgrades, i.e... jack plates and different props. I understand all of that plays a large roll in making noticeable differences. However, I'm simply looking for opinions on nothing more than raising the engine. I'm not looking for any extra speed. I'm just curious if raising the engine one or two holes would improve upon anything, as far as needed steer input, handling, fuel mileage (which isn't bad anyway), etc...etc, while running on plane. It seems to me that having less engine in the water, while on plane, would have to have some sort of benefit. I know you can't raise it too high, due to cavitating and blow out possibilities and all that. Like I said, I'm just basically curious if there are any benefits what so ever. Not worried about comparison of process of raising the engine compared to benefit gains, as I have access to anything needed to raise engine, even without help. Thanks in advance for any input.

[gatorglenn]

Well yes there are many benefits. Handling, speed, drivability in turns, fuel mileage, rpm range, just to name a few.

60hp, 2nd hole from top.
75hp 3rd hole from top.

[Rebsfan4]

Thank you.

[Nailbender8]

Well yes there are many benefits. Handling, speed, drivability in turns, fuel mileage, rpm range, just to name a few.

60hp, 2nd hole from top.
75hp 3rd hole from top.

What he said.

[Weez556]

This might be a stupid question but. Are all Tracker motor mount bolt holes drilled at the same distance from top of the transom ?
My 60 HP is mounted in the first hole from factory or dealer. I did check with a straight edge off bottom of hull with motor trimmed down and measurement to anti-cavation plate was good by what guys on here were saying. I do not remember the details on checking with that method.
Anyone else know that method ? Thanks

[gatorglenn]

Level the keel on the boat. Then trim the motor down until the cav plate is level on its own. Then run a straight edge off the cav plate to the transom.

Ideally for the Trackers the point of contact should be at the top or 1/2” above the bilge drain hole. If you are flush with the keel. To low. Tracker has a 22-1/4” transom. Not 20”s, but it has a built in setback of 5”s on it step. That’s why it's performance is better set a little higher than a 20” transom.

[Doublew]

Does anyone have an idea of about how many rpms could be gained by raising a 75 4s from the 2nd hole to the 3rd hole?

[rocket man]

I was told that at WOT trimmed out the cav. plate should be skimming the top of the water.

[gatorglenn]

Does anyone have an idea of about how many rpms could be gained by raising a 75 4s from the 2nd hole to the 3rd hole?

Anywhere between 300-500

[Rebsfan4]

I was told that at WOT trimmed out the cav. plate should be skimming the top of the water.

I've been trying to figure out how to see that with just me in the boat. LOL

[Rebsfan4]

Level the keel on the boat. Then trim the motor down until the cav plate is level on its own. Then run a straight edge off the cav plate to the transom.

Ideally for the Trackers the point of contact should be at the top or 1/2” above the bilge drain hole. If you are flush with the keel. To low. Tracker has a 22-1/4” transom. Not 20”s, but it has a built in setback of 5”s on it step. That’s why it's performance is better set a little higher than a 20” transom.

Just got through checking everything. As the engine is factory mounted now, with keel level and cav plate level, placing a straight edge on the cav plate so that it makes contact with the main plug hole, if I move the engine up one hole it will put my cav plate about 1/4" below top of drain plug. If I move it up two holes it will put the cav plate 1/2" above drain plug. This is the Mercury 60 hp. I'm going to move one hole and check it out.

[gatorglenn]

Just got through checking everything. As the engine is factory mounted now, with keel level and cav plate level, placing a straight edge on the cav plate so that it makes contact with the main plug hole, if I move the engine up one hole it will put my cav plate about 1/4" below top of drain plug. If I move it up two holes it will put the cav plate 1/2" above drain plug. This is the Mercury 60 hp. I'm going to move one hole and check it out.

Only move up one hole. To the 2nd hole down from top. It is best.
Going to the 3rd hole with the 60 will start slowing down your holeshot. And will loose bit in the turn easily. Each hole you move is 7/8”. It is a big jump when compared to a jackplate that cold be set in 1/8-14” increments.

I have the same rig. And tested it both ways. Loved the rpm gain in the 3rd. Could run a SS 14p easily. But holeshot sucked.

[Rebsfan4]

Only move up one hole. To the 2nd hole down from top. It is best.
Going to the 3rd hole with the 60 will start slowing down your holeshot. And will loose bit in the turn easily. Each hole you move is 7/8”. It is a big jump when compared to a jackplate that cold be set in 1/8-14” increments.

I have the same rig. And tested it both ways. Loved the rpm gain in the 3rd. Could run a SS 14p easily. But holeshot sucked.

Sounds good. Thanks for the feedback.

[gatorglenn]

Sounds good. Thanks for the feedback.

[Rebsfan4]

Got it raised. Gonna hit the water in the morning to see if I can notice any difference. I was kinda surprised at how much it actually raised the motor, only going up one hole.

[gatorglenn]

Got it raised. Gonna hit the water in the morning to see if I can notice any difference. I was kinda surprised at how much it actually raised the motor, only going up one hole.

[Rebsfan4]

Took the boat out today and was very pleased with the results. It's hard to believe one hole made that kind of a difference. It felt like I was in a totally different boat. Not only could I tell a difference at the steering wheel, I could feel a difference, by the seat of my pants, how the boat moved across the water. Made a trip up river where there were lots of turns. Some sweeping, some sharp. Before, when running this area, the wheel would be so heavy I usually had to keep two hands on the wheel to put power into it to turn. Because of that, I rarely was able to work the trim while cornering. That would either result in a blowout or just flat out having to back out of the throttle before the turn, to insure not having a blow out. Today was TOTALLY different. Was able to run WQT the entire time and keep one hand on the wheel and one hand on the trim button. Was pretty cool to feel the boat turn off the back end like that. VERY responsive. Sometimes a little spooky at how responsive.

I am a little confused on one thing though. It feels like the boat is faster but, the GPS says my top speed dropped almost 1 MPH. I gained a lot of RPM. I can actually go over 6000 if I trim up too far. Even then, the top speed is still almost 1 MPH slower. Mercury says not to exceed 6000 with the 60 so I kept the motor trimmed to run right at that. The top speed isn't an issue really, seeing how the improved boat handling far outweighs a 1 MPH drop in speed. I'm more curious as to why it dropped seeing as how the rpms went up, than anything.

Thanks for the help. It was definitely worth the time to do it.

[Doublew]

Just curious but I about to move mine up one hole. Mine is a 75 4s. What were your rpms before moving it up and are you running an alum or ss prop?

[gatorglenn]

Your rpms up with no gain in speed is a result of to much trim now. As before with the motor deeper, you could trim OUT to the max and the prop was still buried. Now if you do that your getting more slip, by ventilation. So with the rpm gain. Trim down to where speed doesn’t change but in rpms is at the lowest point. Stay there and you’ll see that one mph speed creep back up. You can have cup added to the prop. That will bring the rpms down and the speed up.

If you are going off the dash tach. It is going over 6000 but you are not getting a alarm. Getting going until you get a alarm beep. Then that will tell you how off the tach is. Not a continuous alarm but just the beep every few seconds.

But it it sounds as if you have a 13p prop, maybe a 14p. But with a 14p it usually doesn’t get over 6000 but real close to it. If it is a 14p aluminum prop. You could go to a 14p Vengeance SS three blade. Or the best is a 13p Trophy Sport 4blade. That will being the rpms down in line. You will gain 1-3 mph. Holeshot will cut in half.

[Rebsfan4]

Just curious but I about to move mine up one hole. Mine is a 75 4s. What were your rpms before moving it up and are you running an alum or ss prop?

I was usually around 5400 rpms. Stock aluminum prop.