So I got done fishing this evening and was backing my boat in the garage and my brakes kept locking up on my trailer not letting me reverse. I had to keep putting it in drive and locking it in and then reverse real slow until I got it in. Any suggestions or what’s broke or wrong. If i try and normally reverse it will not go. I’ve messed with a few things and can’t figure it out. I have a 2008 triton 21x2 boat and tandem trailer with brakes. Thanks
Kane Hackemack
2018 Triton 20 TRX
The blue wire disables the brakes when the truck is in reverse. Odds are the fuse is blown from a bare wire.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
use a manual lockout or tape a 1/2" nut behind the forward pin. 2008 probably needs a new solenoid.
Or put some dielectric grease in your 7 pin connector, power is not getting to the solenoid Orr the solenoid is shot, start with the easiest, grease 7 pin, check fuse, check wiring, if all are fine it’s your solenoid.
Adding insulating grease to a connector isn’t going to make a better connection.Originally Posted by Bob McKenzie
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
Same problem with my boat. I'm guessing I have a bare spot in the wire somewhere inside the frame that causes a short , which results in blown fuse. The fuse is under the hood of my f150, I just keep a pack of the required spare fuses in my truck and change it out when I need to. This works for me until take the time and expense to get the wiring re done.
I had the same issue with this trailer and my previous truck so I know it's the trailer not the truck
Should be pretty easy to find. Check that blue wire for any kind of bare wire. When it happened to me it was actually in the trailer pig tail where the wires go into the flat part. I cut it off and spliced a new one in.
Lake Norman, N.C./New Britain, CT.
An Khe 66-67
Many times the wire gets pinched between the inner and outer member. Easy check with an ohm meter. Stab the blue wire with the trailer unplugged, and the other goes to ground. If nothing, go to the plug.
I beg to differ, if he has a loose connection do to a fatigued pin or corrosion it will in fact complete the connection, But let me guess, your going to argue anyways because that what you do, always. Last time the brakes locked up on my trailer was because I had a spider jammed in the reverse pin. So I put some magic dielectric grease in there and it stopped me from checking my fuses, pulling out wiring, or just removing the brakes altogether.
Again, start with the simplest item
FYI
Permatex® Dielectric Tune-Up Grease protects electrical connections, ignition parts and wiring from moisture, salt, dirt and corrosion. It prevents voltage leakage and arcing, resulting in a stronger spark and maximum fire power. It also prevents fusing and tearing of spark plug boots and provides high temperature lubrication on rubber, plastic and ceramic. Dielectric Grease improves electrical connections and extends the service life of bulbs, lamps, switches, rotor caps and terminals.
beg to differ all you want, you’ll still be wrong. Dielectric means insulator. It 100% does not improve an electrical contact in any way. The behavior of a high voltage circuit and low voltage circuit are completely different, and the suggestion to insulate the connection is so wrong that it is ridiculous.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
If there is a good electric connection insulating grease won't hurt a thing. Many automotive connectors are full of insulating grease to prevent corrosion. The reason dielectric grease is used is it keeps water out and doesn't promote electrolysis between pins. It's good stuff.
Reply With Quote