Wrong threa
Wrong threa
Last edited by Haughton; 07-01-2018 at 03:30 PM.
1999 ProGator 190V
200 Mercury EFI 0G843298
Update: problem persists. Turn key, starter engages, immediately disengages flywheel, it will not crank the motor for any length to check spark. One attempt actually resulted in a “dead key”. Nothing happened upon key turn. After advancing throttle to WOT the motor cranked, lit, settled itself, and ran fine. This was a very hot day, motor baking in the sun for hours.
checked bleed system, and oil check valve under vst mabe letting to much oil in, does it smoke bad when it does start ???? sign of fuel leak internal
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
How do I check the bleed system other than looking to see if all hoses are connected? Just normal 2stk smoke, nothing excessive.
they are one way check valves,hand vac pump,and make sure fuel is being dumped back in vap sep at idle, this mtr got a lot of time on it or rebuilt ?????
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
I fought this on my 98 200 efi would start fine in the morning as the heat and humidity got sky high it would just pop once and kick out the starter over and over crack open the throttle and eventually get going wasn't as bad in the cooler weather. What fixed mine was modding the automatic enrichment circuit to manual push key in to choke. Just think of it as going from an automatic choke to manual on older cars.
On the starter solenoid you will see 2 yellow wires with a thin red stripe that hook to the small lug. one comes from the main engine harness and the other one goes to the ecu disconnect the one from the solenoid that goes to the ecu. Now under the tape on top of the main eng harness plug you will find a yellow wire with a thin black stripe tucked back not hooked to anything attach this wire to the yellow/red that goes to the ecu.(There are 2 black wires with thin yellow stripes do not mess with them they go to the switch boxes)
Now the only time the enrichment circuit is activated is when you push the key in. First start of the morning push the key in while you start, after it starts if she stumbles a little just give the key another push till it smooths out.Mine in hot weather now might bump the starter out once but fires right up the second time.
Heres a link from Scream and Fly with the wire diagram hope this helps. https://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?158197-Mercury-EFI-quot-push-key-to-choke-quot-enrichment-diagram
Last edited by tomcat; 07-16-2018 at 09:03 AM.
JUSTIN LAWSON
IL ANG 183FW Retired SMSGT
1998 ASTRO2000 DC[Hooter Scooter] 200MERC EFI TRO4 23P
Engine by Jay Smith Racing
Tomcat, thanks for taking the time to post this info. Seems like this could be what’s going on. I’ll check it out and report back.
No problem I hope this helps.
Justin
JUSTIN LAWSON
IL ANG 183FW Retired SMSGT
1998 ASTRO2000 DC[Hooter Scooter] 200MERC EFI TRO4 23P
Engine by Jay Smith Racing
There was a Service Bulletin (and kit) out for this circuit modification. It was usually installed for COLD start enrichment (but in this case would also serve to remove the enrichment during a starting cycle if the key is not pushed in).
Good job, Justin.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
I need to know something ,has this mtr always done this, when did it start,tried known good ecu yet ????
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
My ecu was replaced with a brand new mercury ecu, I’m not sure about Batman’s
kit p/n 42551a1 no longer available , non active parts lists has a bunch
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Your just splicing two wires together butt splice and some heat shrink or elec tape. I soldered mine together then some heat shrink.
Justin
JUSTIN LAWSON
IL ANG 183FW Retired SMSGT
1998 ASTRO2000 DC[Hooter Scooter] 200MERC EFI TRO4 23P
Engine by Jay Smith Racing
Update: After this modification my motor consistently starts well cold, also idles, and runs very smoothly throughout the throttle range. The the “push to enrich” feature works well on cool mornings. Unfortunately hot starts are still awful after the motor sits, starter motor instantly disengages the flywheel and I cannot crank for any length of time. advancing the throttle 3/4 or more will start the engine.
Google (voltage drop testing a starting circuit) You will find a lot of video's and in depth procedures to help you perform these tests. They will mostly be regarding automotive but the principles are the same. If all drop tests pass and you have the correct battery for your application you probably have a defective starter assy. This sound like a starter circuit issues as you have described it. A recording allowing us the hear what happen when it fails would be useful
Thank You Leon Pugh
^^^^^^^ agreee
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Please do proceed with voltage drop test while cranking the motor just to be sure of no loss of connections
It sound like when the motor pops like it is about to start, it kicks out the starter drive (disengages it) Do you hear the starter motor keep running as long as you keep it in the crank positions (motor not cranking just the starter motor continuing to spin)? Or is there just nothing. You may be fighting more than one problem, one of them being a bad starter drive or starter
That motor really sounds like it is wanting more fuel, try squirting about a 2 second blast of carb cleaner down the intake when it does this
(No Starting Fluid). If no difference try about 3/4 throttle , Video results this could be very helpful
Also all the tool trucks and even Harbor freight have something called Noid lights. Check all injector harness connectors for a pulse when this occurs. Also check the wire that is common to all injectors (red I think) for stable voltage when it will not start. I am assuming you did check fuel pressure while in a no start condition right
Last edited by lpugh; 07-24-2018 at 10:57 AM.
Thank You Leon Pugh
Leon: Most of these tests (noid lights and spraying stuff down the intake) are not possible on this engine model. This is a Laser-Style Injection System, butterflies on the BACK of the intake, and injectors are INSIDE the intake.
Good general theories... just not suitable to the application being discussed.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Be sure to check while in failure mode
Thank You Leon Pugh