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  1. #1
    Member dshirley's Avatar
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    Set up for a 94 javelin

    I have a 94 Javelin 389 te with 94 evinrude 175, the prop is a 13 1/2 by 23 four blade renegrade, it is a pig out of the hole and will run 56 mph. it is on an 8 inch jack plate. I know it should be faster with a better hole shot, is this the correct prop for this motor and boat. Will a three blade 14 1/2 by 24 help.

    Thanks for your help


    Modified by dshirley at 5:19 AM 11/12/2011

  2. Member ep72's Avatar
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    #2

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (dshirley)

    Either a 25 Tempest or 24 Original Raker both worked will run nice on that rig. It is a mid 60's rig set up right.
    Stroker 21
    Mercury 250 PRO XB

    TN Bluewater dealer/rep.
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  3. Member dshirley's Avatar
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    #3

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (ep72)

    I appreciate your come back, what I am looking at is a 14 1/2 x 24 staletto 3 blade and you say worked, by what means and who in the atlanta area does this work

  4. Member ep72's Avatar
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    #4

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (dshirley)

    Not sure of anyone in the ATL area, there is a good guy in the props forum with a great reputation, Mark Croxton. Jay Martin in Miss. is also great to deal with.

    I have no idea how a Staletto will work in your rig, i know they work pretty good on smaller motors and tin rigs. When I say worked, Im talking about having the prop tuned for your rig, based on how it runs in stock form and the load you normally carry.
    Stroker 21
    Mercury 250 PRO XB

    TN Bluewater dealer/rep.
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  5. Member DanCard's Avatar
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    #5

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (dshirley)

    I would swap the 8" plate for a 6". Go with a worked 25 Tempest for the prop. Set the prop shaft about 3" to 3.25" below the pad and that that rig should smoke.

  6. Member DanCard's Avatar
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    #6

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (DanCard)

    And definately have Croxton do the prop work. He is the man.

  7. Member dshirley's Avatar
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    #7

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (DanCard)

    Finally got to the lake, prop is set at 3 inches, hole shot is much better, top speed is still just 58 at 5600 rpm, have a high jacker 6" jack plate. Plate has two holes in it to tilt motor motor. I moved it to the front hole to tilt it more foreward. Now what can I do to get more speed.

  8. Member ep72's Avatar
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    #8

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (dshirley)

    Find the right prop, your at around 18% slip now. Around 10% is the target to shoot for.
    Stroker 21
    Mercury 250 PRO XB

    TN Bluewater dealer/rep.
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  9. Member dshirley's Avatar
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    #9

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (ep72)

    All of the marina mechanics that I have talked to say that for the boat that I have my prop 13 1/2 by 23 renegade is the correct prop for my 19 foot 389 te Javelin boat, At 3" should I go up or go down with the motor, should I move the top bolt back to the other position (tilting the motor in) thanks for your help

  10. Member ep72's Avatar
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    #10

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (dshirley)

    Id go down a tad to 3.5" or so, the OMC lowers and Jav hulls like that. Move the bolt back so you have as much positive angle as you can.
    Stroker 21
    Mercury 250 PRO XB

    TN Bluewater dealer/rep.
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  11. Member dshirley's Avatar
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    #11

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (ep72)

    I'll will try that, thanks for your help

  12. Member dshirley's Avatar
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    #12

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (dshirley)

    Hole shot is great, top speed is 60, ride is great. Thanks for your help

  13. Member Frank A's Avatar
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    #13

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (dshirley)

    if you want little more speed get and orignal Raker 24 repitched to a 23 send to Mark's Props and he'll change it so your boat will lift and ride on the prop, I have same boat loaded VERY heavy with a 150 fast strike 8in jack plate he has got mine running 62.2 gps still got to return it for little more tweeking .. but with your 175hp this should be your best alround prop.
    Good luck and enjoy you 389!
    PS-- you know that 389 has a 41 gallon fuel tank ......that will come to around 290 lb of fuel if she is full......... I try to keep mine 1/2 to below 3/4 .. will make a big diff!

    2006 RANGER 519VX
    200HP MERCURY OPTI-MAX
    Sole member of " THE FISHERMEN FOR LIFE" a fisherman that knows one can make the difference!!

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    #14

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (Frank A)

    Raker is the way to go I had a 95 hydra sport ls 185 running a old renegade it was a dog out of the hole and run real flat changed to a 24 raker and it was a world of difference great hole shot and held the bow high though out the trim by the way it was a faststrike 175

  15. Member Intruder150's Avatar
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    #15

    Re: Set up for a 94 javelin (dshirley)

    I have a 1993 Javelin 389T with a 150 Intruder 6" plate 24 Raker, by myself
    and half tank of gas i can run 65mph GPS at 5,600 RPMs. What these guys are
    telling you about the Raker prop is true.





    allprorods.com
    impactcollisioncenter.com
    hoppyslures.com

  16. Member dshirley's Avatar
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    #16
    Im back with the same problem, what kind of fin or tail are you guys using, I have one that was on the boat, looks like a curved plate, and a dole fin, the fin makes it hard to steer, I am at my witts end it is so bad now it just digs out of the hole and goes no where, if i ease it up on plane it runs fine 55-58, I am at 3.5 inches on the prop, but teh motor acts and looks like it is sitting really low, I am measing from the bottom point on the boat, and the center of the hub is this correct if any one has close pictures of this set up let have them!!!!!

  17. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #17
    The lowest portion of the hull in the very center at the back will be the pad. Get the boat and motor on level concrete or blacktop. Take a level and put on the pad and then crank the trailer jack until you have the boat pad level. Then put the level on the cavation plate of the motor and trim motor until it is level. Then measure at the center of the hull lowest part in the back (pad) to the ground. Then measure from the center of the prop shaft nut to the ground. Subtract the two numbers and that is how high the center line of your prop shaft is from the pad of the hull...most people call it prop to pad height.

    If your motor (175 HP) is in good preforming condition and you are using a GPS to calculate your speed a 389 with a 8" plate and 23P Renegade should see mid 60's 62-63 under perfect running conditions...with perfect running conditions being air and water tempeature much cooler that what we are having right now,light to medium weight load and calm to light chop on the water.

    The 8" plate is not overkill but a 6" is the size that 90% of the 389 hulls run because your particular hull preforms very good with 6" set back. I would not worry about having 8'" set back, I would just go with what I had. There are many 389 hulls on the water so that means there is a lot of set up information t be shared. A 24 Raker seems to be the best all around prop for holeshot, handling and speed. As with any boat/motor when playing with engine height you must know your motors max RPM and the amount of minimum water pressure at wide open throttle. Do not take my word for it...do some research..."I think" your max rpm is in the 5700 range plus or minus 100 rpm and you should have 15 pounds of water pressure at wide open throttle.

    Anytime you are trying to find the optimum performance it is advised to load the boat just like you were going to go fishing. Have a tachometer and water pressure gauge that is accurate and know what your max rpm and minimum water pressure at wide open throttle should be. If speed is what you are after use GPS because boat speedometers are know to be very inaccurate. I would start with the motor at 3 to 3.5 inches below the pad and raise the motor 1/4" at a time until you find the sweet spot. It would be nice if you had a 24 Raker to try. In my opinion you do not need a hydrofoil. There are to many 389 running around with good hole shot that are not using a hydrofoil to help with hole shot. I "think" you still have not found the right prop and motor height.

    In a previous post you made the statement... At 3" should I go up or go down with the motor, should I move the top bolt back to the other position (tilting the motor in) thanks for your help.

    I would go up but what has me confused is should I move the top bolt back to the other position (tilting the motor in) can you please explain in more detail what you are talking about.

  18. Member dshirley's Avatar
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    #18
    I have a 6" jack plate, the renegade prop I have is in pretty good shape, at the top of the jack plate where the top of the jack bolt is there to hole to mount the the pusher in the front on leans the motor out and the back on leads the motor in. you say to remove the hydrofoil should I do this before I try a new set up.

  19. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #19
    I "think" I understand what you are talking about. I sounds like you have a transom wedge or something similar to that. Based on how you describe it I would want the motor to have as much negative trim (trim down/prop in close to the transom) as possible when trying to come out of the hole. When I say negative trim I mean the motor is trimmed/tucked into the transom as far as possible. Netural trim would be a level motor and positive trim would be when you have the motor trimmed out past neutral (trimmed up) like when you are running wide open throttle.

    As for removing the hydrofoil, I just believe once you get the correct motor height and prop combination you will not need the hydrofoil. In theory the Renegade 4 blade should come out of the hole good and carry a load good. The 3 blade Raker will normally have better top end speed and respond to input on the throttle faster because it has less resistance. In my opinion an hydrofoil really helps smaller horsepower boats like 115 HP or less because they do not have the torque to bring a load out of the hole. Example a 16 ft bass boat normally has around a 90 hp motor and a 18 ft will have 150 hp. That is 70% more HP but no where near 70% more weight. Hence the reason there will be no need for a hydrofoil. However there are exceptions to ever rule and some people use/need the benefit of a hydrofoil because it will improve hole shot and give you the ability to cruise at lower speeds and rpms when running in the mid range rpms.

    Every hydrofoil that I have seen has like 4-6 bolts and looks like they could be removed in 5 minutes. Take it off and see what happens. If you don't like the results just put it back on...part of the trial and error of finding a setup that preforms well.

  20. Georgia Bass Club Moderator fishnfool38's Avatar
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    #20
    6" jack plate, 3 1/4'' below prop height, 25 Temspest plus all holes plugged and no fins will get you what you want. I have spent $$$$ fine tuning getting all I could trying every prop I could get my hands on this is where I stopped and very happy with my set up. Mine has a 150 Evinrude Intruder very strong it is turning 65gps in the winter, 63-64 summer and great hole shot.

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