Thread: Dead 2004 F115

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  1. #1
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    Unhappy Dead 2004 F115

    My Yamaha 2004 F115 with 640Hrs. has decided to to take a break. It ran good the last time i used it and now nothing. It shows no indications at all on the console when the key is turned to on. There is not any tach display and cannot tilt or trim from the console.I have tried cleaning Battery connectors and even removed the batteries and charged each one but still nothing at the console.There is power at the motor and can tilt it from there.

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    #2
    Check the fuses.

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    #3
    Yes the fuses are all good and i checked the voltage from the battery is at the motor.

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    #4
    Do you have power at the Ignition switch? If you do....do you have power coming OUT of the ignition switch when the key is turned?

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    #5
    I am not sure if power is at the switch. I don't know where to check it .

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    #6
    Is the backside of your ignition switch (where the wires connect) accessible?
    Do you have a 12 volt test light/prob?

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    #7
    I have a digital voltmeter and i do have access to the back but it is a bit of a stretch and i tried to take the switch panel out to get to it but unable to without prying.

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    #8
    OK....try this....is there power to the starter solenoid when you turn the key to full start? (the position that turns the starter)
    I still think your best bet is to get a test light and start tracing to where the power loss begins. Or eliminate that a loss of power is the problem.
    My 5 dollar test light and a bunch of patients has saved me huge dollars over the years.

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    #9
    Well i agree the test lite works but so will the DVM. Nothing at all happens when i turn the key on or try to start. I can't even rise or lower the motor from the controls. This tells me , if i understand the circuit, that it probably is not getting any juice. I wish the service manual had a circuit description. It shows various wire diagrams but does not tell what is on which wire. I can trace ground to various spots but without a test wire harness i cannot check the in and outs of the voltage reg. and the ECU.

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    #10
    IMO the test light is much easier if your just looking for dead connections. Have you double checked all your connectors at the battery. look for bad crimps, broken connectors.

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    #11
    Yes, i have checked the cables. I also have replaced on of the batteries and gave it a full charge. I then removed the battery selector and now only using the new battery.

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    #12
    Any Luck?

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    #13
    Not yet. I keep the boat at a Shanty on the bay in the water so yesterday i towed it to the boat ramp with my skiff. I will look at it some more today. The first thing i am going to try is is to check the main relay by taking it out and see if it will energize.
    It might come down to bite the bullet and take it too somebody.
    I appreciate the suggestions.

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    #14
    Need to check where control box plugs into motor under hood. Sounds like main harness issue.

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    #15
    I managed to check and verify that the main relay is O.K.
    I also verified that the Kill switch on the console was working and getting to the motor. I can get to the back of the remote control cable but i have been unable to disconnect it. All of the connectors but this one are simple pull apart and reconnect with the key positioned properly. The 10P connector on the motor for the remote has a lock that looks like you have to twist before pulling apart.
    I am going to try doing a continuity check with it connected at motor.This is really frustrating since it was running like a champ then not.

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    #16
    Well i tried again to get the 10P connector on the motor apart. I found that there is a sliding collar that after removing it then i could pry the 2 connectors apart. There is even a O ring to help keep moisture out. The reason i was determined to get them apart was i tried to do a continuity check with the console connector and the first wire i tried was the red wire i did not get a connection. After getting the 10P connector apart i noticed corrosion and also found that the red wire pin was broken.
    Long story short now i need a Remote cable. There were several replies to my cries for help that tried to steer me in that direction but i have a built in stubborn streak that kept telling me to look elsewhere when i had difficulty getting the 10P Connector on the motor apart. Thanks for all of the help!!
    Now i got to order a control cable.

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    #17
    So basically it was the hot (positive) wire from the motor to the console?

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    #18
    Yes, I have the new remote cable on order it should be here thursday.
    The remote cable on the motor side was a real bear to get apart. The pin was broken due to corrosion.
    Thanks for the help Wisconsin.