Hey guys,
I wanted to see what yall thought about this design. My plan is to go with a boat between 20 and 22ft(not much price difference). Please give me input and suggestions about anything you would change or improve on.
Thanks,
Vince
**the bench where the rear seats are cannot be moved because It is the fuel tank.
**The helm seats will more than likely be pushed back a bit and hover over the fuel tank more. (I couldn't find a seat in sketchup that was more to my liking)
Last edited by vjohn05; 06-14-2018 at 04:24 PM.
Nice layout
One thing I would do is make sure I had access to underneath my trolling motor so I could always make sure everything was tight. I had a 4 inch access port installed on my Weld-Craft when they built it for me so I could always tighten up those trolling motor bolts that loosen up. Looks good to me as far as the boat goes & it has plenty of storage also. Thing about were you want your cleats also. Pop up ones are nice.
ill have to ask about the trolling motor but I think it mouts on a raised bracket so I should have access to the bolts.Originally Posted by NORRIS CRAFT 1
they include 4 pop up cleats and I haven't given a thought to placement. Any reason not to put 2 towards the front and 2 towards the back?
I'd make sure you can put in a recessed TM tray without needing additional bracing after the fact.
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Snag Devil was a lure retriever invented in the late 40s by the grandfather of a friend of mine who was a better inventor than marketer.
That is also included with the boat...I forgot to put it on the sketch
Cooler is facing wrong way
Make sure the space for the cooler will accommodate whatever cooler you might buy in the furure, maybe look at Yeti/RTIC/Engel dimensions and make sure you like the space allotted.
Are you really planning two big screens for the console? If not, maybe a smaller, lighter console that still has enough space.
Otherwise, love the layout and efficient use of space.
Are you going with one of the custom builders out of Morgan City? I wanted to go that route but couldn’t make contact with them a couple of years ago to get a rough quote. Sure want to see the build and get an idea what it cost you when you’re done.
The ice chest is modeled off of a yeti 110 so I’m sure it’s similar size to the rtic. The space is drawn 40 inches wide so it’ll prob be okay.
The screens at the console are 12 inch screens but that’s prob gonna be way too much $$. I’ll prob end up going with 2 7s or 2 9s. I really want 2 so I can put my engine data on 1 and map on the other. The boat builder suggested making the console just as wide as whatever seat I put at the helm. If I can actually go with 2 seat (preferred) I don’t know if I would be able to get the console any more narrow than it is now (36 inches).
I suggest if you are looking to get a quote to call gator trax and uncle j custom boats. I’ve pretty much called or stopped at every builder around Morgan city I thought could build the boat I want. Both of these guys are more than willing to help you. Kent at gator trax and Jason at uncle js are both awesome guys. Gator trax I’m pretty sure does everything in-house and is a mercury dealer and uncle j sends some things out (motor and some parts of rigging). I think in the end both would be quality products.
Out of curiosity what % more expensive is a custom built boat versus a standard brand boat in similar size and options?
Great storage? How will you fit gas tank and battery storage in there?
How is the outboard motor attached, on a bracket?
What degree deadrise in this hull?
Excellent Sketch-up work! Love that program.
Note: If you downloaded the seat model from an online warehouse, you can explode it and modify it as needed.
Looks like you've done a great job maximizing deck layout and storage space.
Couple details to consider:
Open up the center console to allow foot/leg room underneath.
Make the electronics shelf into a folding/flip up compartment. Great way to stow and secure them without needing to remove them.
Hinge the large rod locker lids at the front edges, and wrap the lids down the backside of the deck. Would allow easier straight insertion/removal of long rods.
Add a set of cleats amidships. Very handy for quick tie-up when approaching dock, and for securing spring-lines.
if you are comparing this to a fiberglass bass boat I think they are pretty close in price. With the "works" (ultrex, poles, 2 good graphs, 300hp motor) youre looking at about 70K
the gas tank is under the seats and its 50 gallons. The batteries will go in the back bilge just like other bass boats. I may put one under the console for my stereo later on.
Last edited by vjohn05; 07-03-2018 at 04:21 PM.
Im not sure about degree deadrise but its just a padded bass boat hull with 25 inch sides.
The motor will bolt to the jack plate and jack plate directly to transom
- there are 4 stainless steel pop up cleats that come with it. Im pretty sure i can place them anywhere i want. I almost would prefer normal cleats so you wouldnt have to worry about having to pop them up all the time. My dads boat has regular cleats and when fishing my line gets caught on them often enough to aggravate me (it may be the placement of them). So im still unsure about cleats (its prob not a huge thing for me to get concerned over but i cant help myself lol)
Thanks for the input. It really helps
Last edited by vjohn05; 07-03-2018 at 04:26 PM.
Here's a great example of a simple center console hidden electronics locker, from a post on Boat Builder Central (the "other" BBC). This was all hand-made composite construction (plywood/epoxy resin/fiberglass). He used an electric ram to raise/lower the assembly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=1Eam0S4-2NA
Link to his build page:
https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic...9416&start=190
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