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  1. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #41
    Quote Originally Posted by Kwell215 View Post
    BS. Not true. How long have you been using your MK Alternator in your boat? Do you have a volt meter installed?
    I'd suggest you check with an engineer. Preferably an electrical engineer who has a decade of experience in the battery and charging business.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  2. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Savage View Post
    Following.....just for fun
    This one might make the top ten...




  3. Member erico's Avatar
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    #43
    Quote Originally Posted by fishnfireman View Post
    This one might make the top ten...
    I'm in

  4. Member opaleski's Avatar
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    #44

  5. Member avidbasser's Avatar
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    #45
    Been fishin' since I was 5 years old...Thanks Grandpa!


  6. Sheepdog mike464's Avatar
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    #46
    Everyone that has told you to get the Batteries Plus X2 group 31 had given you good advice. I would also put your console graph in Standby mode when you are on the front deck, you don't need it on and it draws plenty of juice. Are you keeping fish all day since you are running the livewell pumps? If your catching fish to eat, knock them on the head and throw them in the cooler, they'll be even fresher than keeping them in the livewell till you get home! Here's the X2: https://www.batteriesplus.com/produc...ls/sli31agmdpm

  7. Sheepdog mike464's Avatar
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    #47
    Read this, but don't get the Optima Blue Top, it won't work for you! It will start your motor until you load it up with the rest of your electronics.
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....batteries+meet

  8. Member DrewFlu33's Avatar
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    #48
    I....I can't believe people have this lack of understanding about how these alternators work, or about simple physics.


    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_energy

    Relevant snippet that tells everyone thinking the alternators just make energy out of thin air that it's not even theoretically possible...even if the alternator was 100% efficient (which can't be achieved):
    A consequence of the law of conservation of energy is that a perpetual motion machine of the first kind cannot exist, that is to say, no system without an external energy supply can deliver an unlimited amount of energy to its surroundings.
    Let me reiterate: the ONLY THING these alternators do is distribute power from the motor's alternator to the trolling motor batteries AFTER THE CRANKING BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED. If the cranking battery isn't getting fully charged - WHICH IS EXACTLY WHAT'S HAPPENING HERE - the added alternator is a paper weight, at best. And since it's not 100% efficient (you're losing some of the energy generated in the system via heat), you're not achieving that "at best" scenario. The trolling motor batteries are not the issue here, so the problem the alternators might solve isn't the one that needs solving! Apologies for the caps, but seems to be the only way that might make it through some very, very thick skulls.
    1995 Ranger 481VS
    175 Merc XRi EFI (0D123631)

  9. Banned
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    #49
    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    I'd suggest you check with an engineer. Preferably an electrical engineer who has a decade of experience in the battery and charging business.
    Another critic on a product they've never used...

  10. Banned
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    #50
    Quote Originally Posted by DrewFlu33 View Post
    I....I can't believe people have this lack of understanding about how these alternators work, or about simple physics.


    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conservation_of_energy

    Relevant snippet that tells everyone thinking the alternators just make energy out of thin air that it's not even theoretically possible...even if the alternator was 100% efficient (which can't be achieved):


    Let me reiterate: the ONLY THING these alternators do is distribute power from the motor's alternator to the trolling motor batteries AFTER THE CRANKING BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED. If the cranking battery isn't getting fully charged - WHICH IS EXACTLY WHAT'S HAPPENING HERE - the added alternator is a paper weight, at best. And since it's not 100% efficient (you're losing some of the energy generated in the system via heat), you're not achieving that "at best" scenario. The trolling motor batteries are not the issue here, so the problem the alternators might solve isn't the one that needs solving! Apologies for the caps, but seems to be the only way that might make it through some very, very thick skulls.
    Why do you keep mentioning this? No one said the MK Alternator generates power....

    Have you used the "paper weight" on your boat? Or are you too another assumption critic?
    Last edited by Kwell215; 06-15-2018 at 11:30 AM.

  11. Member DrewFlu33's Avatar
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    #51
    Quote Originally Posted by Kwell215 View Post
    Why do you keep mentioning this? No one said the MK Alternator generates power....

    Have you used the "paper weight" on your boat? Or are you too another assumption critic?
    You haven't taken the time to actually read any of the posts anyone has made about this, or taken the time to understand what your alternator is doing for you, have you? Be honest.

    To answer your question: Nope, haven't used it on my boat because it has a stator that doesn't generate enough power to fully charge my cranking battery, let alone make extra to charge my trolling motor batteries. Instead of just asking everyone if they've used the magical device, how about you tell us how adding the alternator that's made to charge trolling batteries after the cranking battery is fully charged will help the OP whose cranking battery is dying on him?

    Assumption critic is laughable. The literature for the damn thing says EXACTLY what everyone else has been saying about it. The motor has an alternator, what is adding another one hooked up to different batteries than the one going dead going to solve?
    1995 Ranger 481VS
    175 Merc XRi EFI (0D123631)

  12. Member DrewFlu33's Avatar
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    #52
    Here, I just made a pretty diagram to show how the extra alternator works. Note that without it, we're in the diagram at the top left. If we added it to this setup, we're at the top right in the best case scenario where the alternator isn't leaching power. In cases where the big motor runs long enough to fully charge the cranking battery, we arrive at the bottom diagram and this is where the alternator can be of benefit. Since the big motor isn't fully charging the cranking battery, the alternator would do nothing, as in the top right, except add some extra connections.

    1995 Ranger 481VS
    175 Merc XRi EFI (0D123631)

  13. BBC SPONSOR
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    #53
    This has been entertaining, I need to get back to work. I agree with what DrewFlu33 is saying about the MK Alternator. OP Just go pick up the X2 AGM group 31 from Batteries Plus and go fish, should fix all your troubles, your cranking battery is just worn out.

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    #54
    Quote Originally Posted by DrewFlu33 View Post
    Nope, haven't used it on my boat because it has a stator that doesn't generate enough power to fully charge my cranking battery, let alone make extra to charge my trolling motor batteries. Instead of just asking everyone if they've used the magical device, how about you tell us how adding the alternator that's made to charge trolling batteries after the cranking battery is fully charged will help the OP whose cranking battery is dying on him?

    Assumption critic is laughable. The literature for the damn thing says EXACTLY what everyone else has been saying about it. The motor has an alternator, what is adding another one hooked up to different batteries than the one going dead going to solve?
    You do realize a motor alternator is not the same thing. Right??? You're not actually adding another "alternator" with the MK Alternator. It simply transfers the 12V power to the TM batteries at 10 Amp per channel, the remainding amps is still supplied to the cranking battery.

    Using it on a 20ft TRX w a 250 Pro XS. 4X 12V with a 112 Ultrex. 4 HB units, (2 solix, 2 Helix G2N). In-line volt meter at dash for main battery and one at bow for TM feed. MK Alternator 3DC.

    Console units have a dedicated parallel circuit to the cranking battery, 10 gauge, 20 amp in-line main fuse, kill switch on accessory switch, ferrite rings (power lines and txdr), individually fused to each unit, and braided shield on power wire was stripped back and grounded to the (-) battery lead. Bow units connected on a parallel circuit just like the console units (12V) to the middle battery on the TM 36V series chain, braided shield was grounded as well, but to the same ground. Ferrite ring also added to the TM power lines (interference reduction purposes). Txrds have in line ferrite cores, 8mm for the solix units (one on TM, one on transom). One helix txdr with ring (transom mounted), no ring/core on high speed thru hill txdr. 5-port is on the cranking battery as well.

    With this setup (again by moving some accessories to the TM batteries), will conserve power off the cranking battery. In a 20 min run (meaning main engine is running - I know you seem to get lost about this point and where the power is generating from), I have had the cranking battery go up .5V and as much as 2V on the TM (per the volt meters). That's how this will help his cranking battery situation.

    At times, with the battery switch set to "both" (parallel circuit off the last battery of the TM series) has not caused any issues while running the main engine with the MK alternator connected. If I'm running live wells all day in a tournament, I'll switch it to "both" to drain less power off the cranking battery, thus sharing the load. TM works fine and will last a full tournament day.
    Last edited by Kwell215; 06-15-2018 at 01:25 PM.

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    #55
    Quote Originally Posted by DrewFlu33 View Post
    Here, I just made a pretty diagram to show how the extra alternator works. Note that without it, we're in the diagram at the top left. If we added it to this setup, we're at the top right in the best case scenario where the alternator isn't leaching power. In cases where the big motor runs long enough to fully charge the cranking battery, we arrive at the bottom diagram and this is where the alternator can be of benefit. Since the big motor isn't fully charging the cranking battery, the alternator would do nothing, as in the top right, except add some extra connections.

    Why are you supplying power to the #2 TM battery twice on the bottom diagram? I wouldn't suggest doing that!

  16. Member
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    #56
    Quote Originally Posted by devildog999 View Post
    Well first off, this sucks. I just spent 10 minutes typing this up and it failed to post so here we go again...

    I have a 2017 Nitro Z-21 since July of last year.

    I need help with why my cranking battery which is dying before the day is over. I go fishing once a week and literally fish all day; yesterday I fished from 0700 until 0100 totaling 18 hours on the water. The boat has 4 batteries total; starting last week, my cranking battery is dying hours before the trip is over. The entire time I am out, I am usually running both of my fish finders, both recircs for my live wells, and my hydrowave. I am also constantly using my 112 ft lb MinnKota Ultrex and do not use the engine very much for moving around the lake. I will spend hours trolling a shoreline and then use the engine for a few minutes to move to another spot on the lake.

    Please continue to reply below as this will not allow me to post a longer block of info so using replies to finish my topic. Maybe a moderator can put these all together but the internet is being unkind to me right now, I apologize for the inconvenience.
    Was the battery fine in the past and did you happen to have freezing weather hit your area recently? If so you may need to replace the cranking battery.

  17. Member
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    #57
    PS. Fishing 18 hours on the water and not running your motor very much would try any battery.

  18. Banned
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    #58
    20180615_223345.jpg
    I fixed your diagram. You're missing the wire from the main engine (you know, the component that generates power) "key on" signal that turns on the MK Alternator - when the engine is running. It's rather important!!! The MK alt will not be powered on without it.... And no, it doesn't drain the cranking battery at all when the engine is not running.
    Last edited by Kwell215; 06-16-2018 at 12:21 AM.

  19. Member opaleski's Avatar
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    #59
    Looks like Devil Dog has left the building??

  20. Member
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    #60
    Quote Originally Posted by opaleski View Post
    Looks like Devil Dog has left the building??
    The name Devil Dog might be the clue 18 hours of fishing nonstop could be another.

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