Transom advice

[Cliffy]

Hey,
Not the greatest with electronics so I have to post without a picture. I have a quick question for any of you Stratos owners and in particular the 273 owners. Mine is a 1998 273. When the engine is removed and the black aluminum angle plate with phillips screws is removed from the top backside of the transom, is it possible that the factory could have ground off a tiny section where the 90 degree (roughly 1”) to size and fit the angle cap? Mine has a section that looks as if a disc grinder has started on one side and ran completely from one side to the other and added a good size single bead of white rubberized caulking. I guess my question is, how are the transoms constructed and components joined (at this joint?) or should it be completely smooth and gelcoated like the rest of the boat? Is it possible that this is how the factory designs these particular models and then simply seals them with the rubberized caulk and finishes them off with the aluminum angle plate? Or, did a previous owner try to cobble it up to sell it? I’ve had the boat 10yrs now and added several upgrades and just recently had someone say that it doesn’t seem right? I could really use some advice and would be happy to send along some photos through email to anyone knowledgeable in this issue. The email I do actually know how to send pictures through is cncvallier@gmail.com I would really appreciate any and all feedback
Thsnk you in advance
Cliff

[Wendy lou]

The hull and transo
are built
then the cap (top of boat is set on and secured together

someti
es on the transome the match is not perfect so it is ground so top of transom and cap are even
they then apply silicone to keep water out

[Cliffy]

Can I send you a photo to look at?

[Bassnailer]

I have a 94 Stratos 201, and this is how mine was made as well. In fact, most bass boat transoms I've seen from that era were made that way. The transoms were built into the hull, and then the top cap was put on. This made a clam shell type closure at the back. In order to install the aluminum trim piece at the transom, the top cap was cut cleanly along the length of the trim. Marine caulking was then puttied into the gap between the top of the transom and the fiberglass top cap, then the aluminum piece was sealed up with the caulking. Last winter, I removed my motor and jack plate, the splash well drains, and all other fittings from the transom. I also removed the aluminum trim plate you are talking about, and chiseled out all the putty between the transom and the top cap. This allowed me to inspect the core material, wood in my case, for rot or damage. I placed a set of heat lamps on the transom for about a month, to insure and moisture would be cooked out. I then saturated any part of the transom material I could get to with epoxy, and mixed up some peanut butter epoxy by adding cabosil to it to fill the gap between the transom and top cap. I then got rid of the chinzy aluminum trim piece, and had a local machine shop bend up a piece of stainless steel which wrapped all the way around the transom, with bolt holes for the engine bolts. This allowed me to mount the trim piece by only sealing it down with 3m 4200, and securing it with the engine bolts. No screw holes to leak. This was preventative maintenance, but it should make the transom last the life of the boat without leaks.

A picture of the gap between the top cap and hull at the transom



New trim piece that wraps around to both sides



Hope this helps, I took more pictures and would be happy to share with you for reference.