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  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    171

    Top cap loose from the hull

    It seams that the top cap is loose at most areas, some areas worse than others Pulled a section of rub rail off around the bow, that area is the worst. Man of the holes are elongated from the movement. I have all the rivets out and most of the caulk out from the font cleats forward. There is a about a 1/4"- 5/15" gap between the hull and cap. The gap is non existent at the very end of the bow. My plan is to clean as best as I can with acetone. Then drilling a larger hold in the cap and screwing flat head screws into the smaller holes on the hull. Prior to tightening, put some 5200 between the two and then drawing them together by tightening the screws. I will wax the screws to keep them from bonding. Thoughts appreciated.
    96 221

  2. Banned
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    SW Ohio
    Posts
    25,533
    #2
    Sounds like a great plan... Remember 5200 is permanent, 4200 can be removed if need be in the future... Dan

  3. Member MMosher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Bout 50 miles West of St. Louis
    Posts
    6,159
    #3
    Yup and use SS screws.

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    High Ridge Missouri 63049
    Posts
    2,545
    #4
    Just curious what year and model champion?

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    GP
    Posts
    55
    #5
    Personally I would use 4200 for some flex & longer life as a seal material. 5200 IS permanent, sets up hard, & when it cracks, you're right back to square 1. Not sealed. Plus hammer & chisel to get it out & reseal again. Just the way I do mine every 7-8years when I redo transom & thru hulls.

    Added bonus: I saw some colored rope the other day. Started my thinking gears turning. I MAY pull my black rope out of rubrail & put in a RED rope rubrail. My boat is red & black & I think it would look cool like another thin red stripe in the black rubber.
    They had it in black, red, blue, yellow & green. Hmmm. Maybe???


    1992 Champion 201 DCR Elite
    2013 Yamaha 250SHO
    HumminBird

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Menomonee Falls, WI
    Posts
    1,173
    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Hoss Triton View Post
    Personally I would use 4200 for some flex & longer life as a seal material. 5200 IS permanent, sets up hard, & when it cracks, you're right back to square 1. Not sealed. Plus hammer & chisel to get it out & reseal again. Just the way I do mine every 7-8years when I redo transom & thru hulls.

    Added bonus: I saw some colored rope the other day. Started my thinking gears turning. I MAY pull my black rope out of rubrail & put in a RED rope rubrail. My boat is red & black & I think it would look cool like another thin red stripe in the black rubber.
    They had it in black, red, blue, yellow & green. Hmmm. Maybe???
    5200 does not set up hard to my knowledge. Everywhere that I have used it, it remains fairly "soft" kind of like a silicone. I do agree though, 4200 may be a better option for the top cap.

  7. Pat Goff
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Seadrift TX
    Posts
    10,942
    #7
    They used Sikoflex to bond cap/hull in Mt. Home.
    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

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