Installing ladder on RT198

[kacordy]

I ordered and recieved a new ladder directly from Ranger. Can you guys help me with the exact location that it needs to be mounted? A few pictures. My concern is there are several weld marks where the factory installed bracing on the back side of the outer skin. I just want to make sure when I drill my holes I’m missing these braces. I only have 2 factory screws. The others fell out of a crack in the box during shipping. Instead of using self taping screws, I think I’m going to tap and thread the holes for SS screws. Then lock-tight the screws. Thank you for your suggestions and help. Allen

[tobin01]

Wish I could help, but my 198 didn't come with the ladder. Are you planning on using stainless steel rivnuts? Good Luck!

[n2bassn]

I will be following this thread as I also would like to add a ladder.

[figueira]

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Here is one I think you need to drill some holes

[GeauxTide]

Highly recommend the Twist Step.

[kacordy]

I bought the factory ladder. It’s super nice and of great quality. My wife and I are going to start running up to Lake Shasta every week, go fishing, have a cold one, and take a dip. It was about $200 for the ladder. Great suggestion on the SS Rivnuts. That’s really the way to go. The more I study the ladder, I cannot imagine self tapping screws would hold in the Aluminun boat skin. The ladder is hinged in the middle so it folds up. The challenge is the leverage a persons weight would put on the upper mounts when standing on the bottom rung of the ladder. I’m 6’3” and 210lb. I’m concerned about breaking or stripping the top 4 screws. I wish I could reach behind the far left corner of the transom and use bolts. I will study it more tonight, but option #2 appears it can bolted next to the jackplate and use bolts on the top of the ladder and go through the transom into the exposed water well. Whats nice about the next to the motor install is you have the end of the steering ram to grab a hold of for a handle. I wish I could post pictures but this forum will not allow me to because of pixel limitation to post my Apple phone or IPad pictures. If anyone is interested in pictures of my install project, send me an pm with your email and I will forward pics. Thanks for your interest and advice, Allen

[Glenn]

Hope these pictures will help you. From the left side of the boat to the lesft side of the center of the tubing of the ladder is 12 inches & the bottom of the ladder is 8 1/4 inches. From the bottomof the top cap to the left side of the center of the tubing is 2 1/2 inches & the right side of the top opf the ladder to the center of the tubing is 1 1/4 inch. Notice the closeness of the bottom right of the ladder is to the weld. I'm 6ft & 235 lbs, no problems with the ladder holding my big ass at all.



Hope this helps, if you need anything from me , let me know. Glenn

[kacordy]

Glen, thank you for the picture and the dimensions. My biggest concern was the welds. I did not want to drill into the angle part of the bracing. That would be a mess. Do you think your screws are self tapers or threaded screws into a blind nut?
Allen

[Glenn]

Allen, I really do not know what type of screws were used. The screws heads are little, but my guess would be that they are self tapers. I will go out tomorrow & look at the battery compartment to see if I see any type of nuts were the ladder is mounted.

What kind of screws were the 2 that was with the ladder? If they are self tappers, call Ranger & have them send you some more of the right screws to mount the ladder & ask for template for the ladder also. Just a thought. Glenn

[tjsellsfords]

The easiest way to resize your pics so you can use them is to e-mail them to yourself from your phone and it will ask you what size, choose medium or small. Then you can just download the pics from your e-mail on to your computer.

I bought the factory ladder. It’s super nice and of great quality. My wife and I are going to start running up to Lake Shasta every week, go fishing, have a cold one, and take a dip. It was about $200 for the ladder. Great suggestion on the SS Rivnuts. That’s really the way to go. The more I study the ladder, I cannot imagine self tapping screws would hold in the Aluminun boat skin. The ladder is hinged in the middle so it folds up. The challenge is the leverage a persons weight would put on the upper mounts when standing on the bottom rung of the ladder. I’m 6’3” and 210lb. I’m concerned about breaking or stripping the top 4 screws. I wish I could reach behind the far left corner of the transom and use bolts. I will study it more tonight, but option #2 appears it can bolted next to the jackplate and use bolts on the top of the ladder and go through the transom into the exposed water well. Whats nice about the next to the motor install is you have the end of the steering ram to grab a hold of for a handle. I wish I could post pictures but this forum will not allow me to because of pixel limitation to post my Apple phone or IPad pictures. If anyone is interested in pictures of my install project, send me an pm with your email and I will forward pics. Thanks for your interest and advice, Allen

[kacordy]

Good afternoon Glen, the 2 screws were black and not self tapers. I just finished the install. I really appreciate the dimensions. They were perfect. I even threw a 3 foot level under the bottom mounts with your dimensions and it was perfectly level. What I ended up doing was buying some 8/32 1/2 inch SS button head Allen Screws. I bought a tap and threaded the holes. I then carefully sanded the boat under the post mounts and back of the ladder mounts with 80 gritt and applied E6000 clear adhesive instead of silicone and mounted it up. The only big challenge I had was the transom is not flat. When I held the ladder against the boat, one post was 3/8 off the boat. The ladder posts are all flat and even when I lay the ladder on a table, the boat panel is not flat. I ended up taking the ladder, lowering my enclosed trailer with the tongue jack on it, with 3 2x4’s under 3 post, and bent one leg of the ladder down the 3/8. Then all 4 mounting post sat flat on the transom. I used no rubber washers, just the E6000, the few small 1/16 gaps looks like I ran a bead of silicone around the posts. 103 today in Redding. It will be 95 to 110 from now till October. Time for the evening splash. After 20 years running a 90mph Allison XB2003/280ss, I cannot believe I’m standing here staring at a boarding ladder, Lol. I will say this RT198P is one heck of a fishing machine! Allen

[kacordy]

The easiest way to resize your pics so you can use them is to e-mail them to yourself from your phone and it will ask you what size, choose medium or small. Then you can just download the pics from your e-mail on to your computer.

I will give that a shot! Thanks

[Bill Reynolds]

There are two problems associated with posting iPhone pictures, orientation and size. Post #1 in the following thread addresses both and post #2 gives a less cumbersome way to resize.

http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=870596

[Glenn]

Kacordy, I'm very happy that everything work out for you with this project. Glad I could help. Enjoy!! Glenn

[Mechanic Bob]

Just ordered a Ladder from Metalogic, sponsor on this site, to install on my RT 198P. My have to re-position my Talons, slightly, and I am considering using the 8-32 S.S. Riv-Nuts.
I just don't feel comfortable with sheet metal screws or tapping the aluminum.
Those that have installed them, how sturdy are they with NOT using riv-nuts? (I am 6'4" and 275)

[Lowerider58]

I have a ladder like Bill Reynolds has. I used 8 stainless steel screws and it’s as solid as a rock. It hold my 235# but with no problem.

[Mechanic Bob]

I have a ladder like Bill Reynolds has. I used 8 stainless steel screws and it’s as solid as a rock. It hold my 235# but with no problem.

Thanks!
Did you use any additional adhesives to the flange areas?
The ladder I ordered has the two fasteners per flange @ four flanges = 8 fasteners total.
It will be used as an emergency ladder only and not for recreational use.

[Bill Reynolds]

Thanks!
Did you use any additional adhesives to the flange areas?
The ladder I ordered has the two fasteners per flange @ four flanges = 8 fasteners total.
It will be used as an emergency ladder only and not for recreational use.

I did not use any adhesive but it does sound like a good idea. I still have the sheet metal screws in mine but plan to replace with SS screws and washers on the ones that I can access from inside the bilge. You may want to mount with the sheet metal screws, just because it is easier, then drill them out and replace with screws where you can.

[Mechanic Bob]

Thanks Bill. I assume yours came on the boat?
Seeing that I am installing it, I am really leaning towards the riv-nuts. Just does not seem to have enough threads using 8-32 screws in the .100 aluminum. That is less than 4 threads in each connection. I do not think I can get behind it to use any washer / nut combination.
I understand the easier part, but being I will be mounting it, heck, I have to mark / center punch the holes anyway.

Thanks guys.

[Bill Reynolds]

Mine did not come on the boat. At one time I had a Twist Step but was concerned about my ability to get back into the boat especially with winter clothing. I looked at all the options and decided on the OEM ladder from Ranger. However, I felt that the ladder alone was not enough and added the grab handle to the splash well. This was a $7.00 addition and I was sure glad it was there earlier this week when I had to swim out to retrieve my boat at a primitive ramp. I grabbed the handle and walked right in.
I agree about threading the .100 aluminum, not enough thread engagement. My plan was to drill through and use a washer and nut in the bilge. I just gave it a quick look but it appears that I get access to 6 of the 8 screws. However, the Transom on the RT198 is different than mine so that may not work for you.
I like the Riv-Nut idea, if the bolt and nut idea does not look right to me, I might try it.