Exploring options, including reengineering, to replace/improve OEM water-cooled electronics (PCB) in an outboard motor - an interesting challenge...
Exploring options, including reengineering, to replace/improve OEM water-cooled electronics (PCB) in an outboard motor - an interesting challenge...
Why?
Proactive damage control...
Sounds to me like you ought to go fishing !!
Difficult when motor repeatedly and predictably won't start due to an overheat condition...
Care to elaborate ??
Would help to know what motor-- might be an easy fix.
Stupid flux capacitors!
2005 Champion 198 DC Elite
2005 Mercury Optimax-225hp (Serial#1B073011)
Move north. You can bitch about winter for several months a year, but the PCB in your outboard probably won't overheat.
What motor?
2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870
‘03 Envinrude Ficht 225 HO. For more details on my situation, you can browse the Evinrude forum.
I just received my Evinrude diagnostic software and communications cable today and will hopefully scan it this weekend. At a minimum, I anticipate retrieving EMM overheat and/or out-of-range codes. Had a long conversation with an EMM repair guy and he explained that my EMM, if original, was/is known for a factory defect with the symptoms I described. He can repair/replace (send in my core) the EMM and also recommended that I send him an adjacent fuse panel for an R&R. Finally, he strongly suggested that I check the entire cooling system and replace the thermostats as an overheat condition more than likely contributed to the EMM failing which also must be addressed.
I decided to post this topic here for exposure to a broader audience as what I’m exploring is not necessarily isolated to the Fichts but more of a general issue...
I would fix what is causing the overheat condition in the first place. Could be something as simple as a restriction in the EMM cooling hose. A weak water pump may not kick enough water up to your EMM, etc. The EMM is not causing the overheat and EMM repair guys make a living repairing EMM's if you get my drift. Rocket science not required.Originally Posted by Neverest
99' 201 Pro Elite
08' Evinrude 225 HO
It's not really rocket science, just simple physics regarding heat transfer. Not sure I support the presumed sacrificial EMM engineering design absent a defect/failure. The EMM should have a watchdog timer or similar component to protect itself from an overheat irregardless of the number of detections. Trying to decipher the Check Engine, Hot, and No Oil idiot lights simultaneously on during the no-start condition. Have yet to find any Envinrude documentation that specifically addresses this 3-light situation but still looking. I have received very meaningful insight from others experienced with or experiencing similar issues.
I've completed several common tests regarding VST and EMM water flow blockage without any detection. Based on my symptoms, I'm curious regarding EMM cooling after the motor reaches normal operating temperature when at rest - particularly when it's over 90 degrees. How hot is it under the cowling relative to the EMM? Does gravity bleed the cooling water out of the EMM then resulting in an evaporative cooling effect? If so, wouldn't the EMM temperature and the ambient temperature negate this cooling effect? If water remains present in the EMM, wouldn't there be a risk of the stagnant water not accommodating the necessary heat transfer plus a risk of freezing unless expansion is available.
In all likelihood, this was a preexisting condition on a new-to-me motor...
There is a process to retrieve the codes from the System Check gauge in your service manual, the code definitions are also in the service manual. There are also videos on the www showing water flow changes/modifications to the VST and EMM. There are also several locations on the motor that need to be periodically cleaned one such location is the exhaust pressure sensor located on the mid-section. The tech is also talking about the PDP (power distribution panel) the early model years of the motors were known to have cold solder joints. If you are handy with a soldering iron/gun you can re-solder the PDP. Should you decide to replace the Thermostats, I'd recommend replacing them with the Upgraded Etec thermostats that will allow you to run the Iridium spark plugs for better performance.
Thank you sir. Have yet to acquire an actual service manual, just have an aftermarket SELOC guide. Will be installing my EV Diag today. Thanks again for the information...
Just to add -- knew of a 250 Etec that a friend was having heat issues with. After much searching discovered a local shop had done a crappy impeller replacement and did not get the gasket placed inside the groves and was not getting good water flow.
Thanks. Planning on a new impeller and thermostats just because. After scanning the motor today, I’m going to drop it in the lake and gather some baseline temperature measurements per the PDF Service Manual on my EV Diagnostics. Unfortunately, the PDF Service Manual does specifically support my model number which seems bizarre - perhaps there is another specifically for the Fichts...
Understand your point which explains why I haven’t sent the EMM in for R&R - just not convinced yet. Perhaps the three lights indicate the EMM is actually detecting the overheat condition and safeguarding itself from overheat damage versus indicating that it is at fault. Still gathering information...
Self Fixer scans in what they want to. If you look they do have manuals for the FICHT just not yours. If you want a hard copy try ebay or www.outboardbooks.com A manual for a 2002 thru 2004 will work.
There are also leds on the EMM to help with troubleshooting.
I think you are supposed to have thee lights on and one off with the ignition on and not running. When it is running you have only one on and three off. The one on is the crankshaft position sensor. (I might have that backwards so take that info with a grain of salt).
99' 201 Pro Elite
08' Evinrude 225 HO
Interesting development after my initial EV Diagnostic scan that seems to rule out motor overheating as my cause. After connecting the communications cable and confirming no connection with EV Diagnostics without the EMM powered, I entered my keypad (Ranger) start sequence, verified by the fuel pump humm, but didn't start the motor; connected and successfully downloaded EMM data; then lost connection apparently from a keypad timeout. Then, tried to repeat the steps and I received the constant Check Engine, Hot, and No Oil lights with a no-start condition - my original issue.
Going to revisit this today...
Reply With Quote
