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  1. #1
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    Ranger trailer brakes getting hot

    In the process of trying to get my brakes on my 05 trailer working again. I have bought a new tongue from ranger and new calipers and pads from ranger and installed them all. I bled the lines using the screw driver in the tongue technique until fluid started flowing out of the calipers. Tighten everything down and when I pull the rig driver side works great but passenger side brakes get steaming hot. This was just in a 5 minute pull around the block. Iv read where if the brake lines have sat idle for several years they could go bad and since everything else is brand new in the brake assembly im thinking this may be the issue. Any ideas? How much would new lines cost and what all would I need if so. Thanks

  2. Member
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    #2
    Is it the brakes getting hot or the hubs?

    Ranger z520 // Mercury 250 Pro XS
    12ft BT Talons/112 Ultrex/Hbird 360



  3. Member Bob G.'s Avatar
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    Jan 2013
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    #3
    Did you have the trailer jacked up when you bled the brakes? If not, jack it up and see if the brakes are dragging or the bearings/hubs are the issue.
    2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870

  4. Member
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by mn_bowhunter View Post
    Is it the brakes getting hot or the hubs?
    Hubs. Sorry.

  5. Member
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    #5
    I had a similar issue and, yes, the rubber brake lines had deteriorated internally and blocked up completely. The result was the brakes couldn't release on one of the wheels. Plugged up so bad I couldn't force compressed air through the line.

  6. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by gerrys View Post
    I had a similar issue and, yes, the rubber brake lines had deteriorated internally and blocked up completely. The result was the brakes couldn't release on one of the wheels. Plugged up so bad I couldn't force compressed air through the line.
    have also seen one that the metal line was mashed enough it did the same thing.

  7. Member
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by gerrys View Post
    I had a similar issue and, yes, the rubber brake lines had deteriorated internally and blocked up completely. The result was the brakes couldn't release on one of the wheels. Plugged up so bad I couldn't force compressed air through the line.
    When you tried to bleed the brakes was you getting a good amount of liquid through the lines or none at all?

  8. Member
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    #8
    Update.. bled the brakes again when jacked up. I have a good solid flow of brake fluid coming through when bleeding them. Brakes engage great when stopping but still get hot. Here’s the newest discovery though, I COULDNT back up the boat into the garage after taking it for a test run tonight. They locked up on me and I had to put the pin in the tongue to override the brakes. So now what does that mean? I’m about to take it to a shop and say fix it!

  9. Member
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    #9
    check to reverse solenoid, shold have got a new one with a new tounge. I think it has a blue wire on it? It must have power on it when the truck is put into reverse. (Check the ground also). Are you using the 4 pin (flat) or 7 pin (round) conection? The reverse solenoid sometimes is part on the a60 and sometimes it is mounted behind it.

  10. Member
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    #10
    Transdep— I am using a 5 pin that is connected to the 7 pin round plug that goes into my truck

  11. Member
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    #11
    I think you have to use the round 7 ... maybe this will help

    https://www.etrailer.com/question-55016.html

  12. Member
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    #12
    Before you go tearing apart hubs and things be sure you don’t have a hung caliper heating the hub up.

  13. Member
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    #13
    Get a test light and make sure the center pin on your truck’s round plug is hot when you put it in reverse. You will need to find the ground on the round plug as well. The plug schematic should be printed on the cap.