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  1. Member Bill Reynolds's Avatar
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    #21
    Mattfish11 - Are you the second owner? If so there is a 5 year hull warranty. Also try to send the pics to Ranger. The fact that it cracked in a weld, they may work with without a warranty.

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  2. Member
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    #22
    The weld looks great but did not bond to the metal. Defect if you ask me.
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  3. Member
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    #23
    Quote Originally Posted by quikcarl61 View Post
    That almost looks like it was caused by the bow roller either loading or unloading, it looks as though it's been pushed upward and also looks like a patch piece was already welded in to strengthen it. I could be very wrong but when I enlarged the pics that is what I see.
    I see what you are looking at and noticed it earlier but wasn't able to zoom in on the pic.
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  4. Member
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    #24
    Just my opinion but this is not your fault. It clearly broke at the weld & had nothing to do with anything you did. I have had 5 aluminum boats in my lifetime & never have I ever saw anything like this. Ranger ( WILL ) in my opinion repair this for you. Saying do not worry is useless because you will. But rest assured Ranger will do the right thing. Call Ranger & also send them the pictures & get your estimate from your guy. They may tell you to have your man do it or they may want it at the factory for repairs. But either way be ready. Hang in their this will work out & your boat will be as good or better after the repairs.

  5. Member
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    #25
    Not sure where I saw it, but a guy with a tinny had a similar crack. Factory repaired it, and added a triangular brace while they were at it. The cause was a too heavy trolling motor in that case.

  6. Member Skeeterbait's Avatar
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    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by richg99 View Post
    ...The cause was a too heavy trolling motor in that case.
    I went and compared the pictures to my factory install. The decket extends out over the front of the bow at least 3 more inches than mine. That means the heavy Fortrex motor, armature and magnets, are hung out past the tip of the bow in addition to what ever that light weighs. That is a modification from factory to permit installation of the light. That also shortens the length of the base mounted on the boat to offset the flexing due to the unsupported motor weight flexing up and down. At least that is what I think caused it and gives Ranger a potential out on warranty if they choose to use it. It would be nice if Ranger wrapped that nose cone in thicker aluminum plate but they don't. It is obviously a weak point. But it is also obviously a modification from factory installation.


  7. Member
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    #27
    I would verify the no warranty with Ranger. One question, do you have a trolling motor support arm? The MK have a lot of impact torque since the motor head is almost a foot outside the gunnel.
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  8. Member mattfish11's Avatar
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    #28
    This board is such a great resource. Tin forum has gotten so much better over the past couple weeks. I appreciate all the input here, guys! Thanks! Now - let me start responding to these posts...
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  9. Member mattfish11's Avatar
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    #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Reynolds View Post
    Mattfish11 - Are you the second owner? If so there is a 5 year hull warranty. Also try to send the pics to Ranger. The fact that it cracked in a weld, they may work with without a warranty.
    Quote Originally Posted by NORRIS CRAFT 1 View Post
    Just my opinion but this is not your fault. It clearly broke at the weld & had nothing to do with anything you did. I have had 5 aluminum boats in my lifetime & never have I ever saw anything like this. Ranger ( WILL ) in my opinion repair this for you. Saying do not worry is useless because you will. But rest assured Ranger will do the right thing. Call Ranger & also send them the pictures & get your estimate from your guy. They may tell you to have your man do it or they may want it at the factory for repairs. But either way be ready. Hang in their this will work out & your boat will be as good or better after the repairs.
    Regarding the warranty - technically the warranty could apply to the 2nd owner if you jump through a couple hoops... But the warranty doesn't at all apply to the 3rd owner, which I am.

    I did speak with someone at Ranger - called me back in a matter of a couple hours. Really impressed so far with the understanding and patience he had chatting with me. He said he's only seen this once or twice before and he didn't recall the underlying issue or what caused it. He also said he understands it doesn't fall under the warranty, but get a quote to fix it and send it to them to review... There's no guarantee at all they will pay for the repair, but WOW - didn't expect much more than "Sorry - good luck". Right now - i'm hopeful.
    Last edited by mattfish11; 05-22-2018 at 08:30 AM.
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  10. Member mattfish11's Avatar
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    #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeterbait View Post
    I went and compared the pictures to my factory install. The decket extends out over the front of the bow at least 3 more inches than mine. That means the heavy Fortrex motor, armature and magnets, are hung out past the tip of the bow in addition to what ever that light weighs. That is a modification from factory to permit installation of the light. That also shortens the length of the base mounted on the boat to offset the flexing due to the unsupported motor weight flexing up and down. At least that is what I think caused it and gives Ranger a potential out on warranty if they choose to use it. It would be nice if Ranger wrapped that nose cone in thicker aluminum plate but they don't. It is obviously a weak point. But it is also obviously a modification from factory installation.
    It doesn't seem to be hanging over any more than a typical trolling motor I've ever seen. I mounted the Fortrex myself - used the exact same holes the factory-installed trolling motor mount used. I also installed the spotlight and there was no need to move the trolling motor to install. I'm thinking I'll add a brace to help support the nose cone.
    2014 Ranger RT188
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  11. Member mattfish11's Avatar
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    #31
    OK - so I also took the trolling motor tray and took a flashlight and looked at every single weld I could see from the front to where the foam starts... Every weld is intact - no signs of cracks or anything out of place. My neck hurts from trying to contort my head in different directions to see everything possible...
    2014 Ranger RT188
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  12. Member
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    #32
    Just a hint from an old guy with "flexibility" issues....the next time you have to see something "in a hole".....just stick your cell phone (or any) camera in the hole...and shoot pix in every direction.

    Amazing how many times that idea comes in handy.
    richg99

  13. Member n2bassn's Avatar
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    #33
    When you finally get that problem fixed, please post some pics and a description of the repair process. That would be very helpful to other tin owners that may have the same issue down the road. Thanks

  14. Member mattfish11's Avatar
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    #34
    Quote Originally Posted by richg99 View Post
    Just a hint from an old guy with "flexibility" issues....the next time you have to see something "in a hole".....just stick your cell phone (or any) camera in the hole...and shoot pix in every direction.

    Amazing how many times that idea comes in handy.
    richg99
    Nice! I've tried that as well... it helps with zooming in, too. These camera phones have amazing cameras these days!
    2014 Ranger RT188
    Mercury Fourstroke



  15. Member mattfish11's Avatar
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    #35
    Quote Originally Posted by n2bassn View Post
    When you finally get that problem fixed, please post some pics and a description of the repair process. That would be very helpful to other tin owners that may have the same issue down the road. Thanks
    I will do that. I'm going to take the trolling motor off and get my welder to take a look and put together an estimate. I'm really curious to see what his suggestions are. Might have to fabricate a thick piece of aluminum to brace that front so this doesn't happen again.
    2014 Ranger RT188
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  16. BBC SPONSOR
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    #36
    This is a flaw with the RT188's, call Ranger and make them fix it. Its definitely a common problem from what I have seen on FB. Be persistent, its something they should fix. I know you said that you called them but its worth a try to keep on them.
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    #37
    Quote Originally Posted by mattfish11 View Post
    This board is such a great resource. Tin forum has gotten so much better over the past couple weeks. I appreciate all the input here, guys! Thanks! Now - let me start responding to these posts...
    Agree 100%
    You KNOW "OT" would be all over this post if he were still around!

  18. Member Skeeterbait's Avatar
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    #38
    [QUOTE=mattfish11;9374943]It doesn't seem to be hanging over any more than a typical trolling motor I've ever seen. /QUOTE]

    Mine is positioned as indicated here.



    I used to have another boat with an anchor receptacle and windless mounted on the front edge. The flexing of the anchor's weight caused the bend of the aluminum under the front of the anchor receptacle to crack. After welding it up, I used a cut sheet of 1/8 inch stainless sheet metal under and extending back behind the anchor receptacle and bolted to transfer the flexing force over a larger area. Never cracked again. A sheet sandwiched under and extending back behind the Fortrex mount base would probably work the same.
    Last edited by Skeeterbait; 05-22-2018 at 01:53 PM.


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    #39
    I'm sure ranger will fix it, the only issue is how long will it take them?? Hopefully it's only a few weeks and not a few months. Good luck with the repair...

  20. Member mattfish11's Avatar
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    #40
    [QUOTE=Skeeterbait;9375776]
    Quote Originally Posted by mattfish11 View Post
    It doesn't seem to be hanging over any more than a typical trolling motor I've ever seen. /QUOTE]

    Mine is positioned as indicated here.



    I used to have another boat with an anchor receptacle and windless mounted on the front edge. The flexing of the anchor's weight caused the bend of the aluminum under the front of the anchor receptacle to crack. After welding it up, I used a cut sheet of 1/8 inch stainless sheet metal under and extending back behind the anchor receptacle and bolted to transfer the flexing force over a larger area. Never cracked again. A sheet sandwiched under and extending back behind the Fortrex mount base would probably work the same.
    Great stuff Skeeter... I will probably mount it closer to the edge if I have enough room for deployment. The Fortrex mounted before this was mounted just like it is on my boat today. Looks like I'll have room to bring it back in - hope the holes line up OK.

    I hear you about the extra weight acting as a fulcrum to pull/bend/tear at the aluminum - I'm hoping to put some much more sturdy reinforcement on the area somehow...
    2014 Ranger RT188
    Mercury Fourstroke



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