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  1. #1

    97 Faststrike 150 no power

    Hey guys, I know this gets talked about lots but here it goes. I ran my boat yesterday and it started first crank no problem. We went for a little run and I noticed there was a slight lack of power, then when I went to pull back on the throttle it cut out. I started it right back up then I had no power, couldn't get the boat on plane. so I idled back to the dock and went home and did a compression and spark check.

    Compression was good and so was the spark on all 6 cylinders. I checked all the timing and it looked good, the cam roller was just replaced and is still good as well.

    The only thing I wanted to check but I forgot was to make sure I had pressure sucking in on all 6 cylinders and no gas spitting out. All the carbs were taken off and cleaned last summer, might have 6 trips since they were cleaned.

    When I was letting it warm up and waiting for my buddy to park the truck I noticed the tach was reading high at idle and bouncing around. When we took off the tach would bounce around but then it worked itself back to where it should be.

    Any ideas on where to start here?

  2. #2
    Sorry I should have added the model number is J150GLEUE

  3. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #3
    Take the cover off of the timing disk and watch the linkage while having someone move the throttle. make sure that the screw on the roller arm hasn't stripped out or the bar on the throttle hasn't broken the cam. Check everything on the throttle linkage.

  4. #4
    Okay I will check the throttle linkage when I get home from work, Thanks!

  5. #5
    The linkage all looked good. Sorry it took so long to reply. Do you think maybe coil or power pack?

  6. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #6
    I'd take it back out for a quick run, and push in on the key to see if it makes a difference. If your VRO is still functional I'd disconnect the 4 wire harness for it and see if the tach acts normally. If it stays the same I'd check all grounds and then think about pulling off the flywheel cover and inspect the stator pocket for insulation puddling.

  7. #7
    Hey Champ, I changed the plugs to fresh QL78YC. When I tried pushing in the choke it did not help. The tach worked fine today. Maybe I just have a bad tach. I noticed 2 things today. When I pushed the choke in I had fuel come out of the red lever on the solonoid (the arrow is pointing down). And also one of the bottom carbs was spitting fuel out of it, when I turned the motor off the same carb had exhaust or vapour coming out of it.
    Last edited by McGinnis_Fishing16; 05-09-2018 at 06:09 PM.

  8. Member
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    #8
    Sounds like you need new carb bowls. Ethanol. New fuel solenoid. Ethanol. Also might be time to replace fuel diaphragm. All because of ethenol. Had some problems like that. Also check your charging to make sure stator or reg/rectifier is good.

  9. Sprint Boats Moderator Bassmeister's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by McGinnis_Fishing16 View Post
    Hey Champ, I changed the plugs to fresh QL78YC. When I tried pushing in the choke it did not help. The tach worked fine today. Maybe I just have a bad tach. I noticed 2 things today. When I pushed the choke in I had fuel come out of the red lever on the solonoid (the arrow is pointing down). And also one of the bottom carbs was spitting fuel out of it, when I turned the motor off the same carb had exhaust or vapour coming out of it.
    That red lever may have a crack in it, also sounds like reed problem behind that carb.

  10. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Bassmeister View Post
    That red lever may have a crack in it, also sounds like reed problem behind that carb.
    Very simple to move one carb for another on that motor, simply unbolt carbs and move around no adjustment needed to verify carb issue. To verify a reed issue, hold a piece of paper in front of the carb and see if it gets sucked in to the front side of the carb. If it blows out bad reed. Simple also to replace the maintenance valve. #0175158

  11. #11
    Okay I will check for a reed issue first then swap the carbs if needed to test for a carb issue. I was looking at my carb bowls and they are slightly warped but I'm not sure if they are warped enough to allow for air to enter.

    I watched a video online long time ago and a guy took the bowls off and used a flat fine grit sanding block to sand them down flat again. Would this work if you make sure to blow the bowl out good? Or are you just asking for trouble?

  12. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #12
    You can try but keep in mind there is a raised lip on the bowl along with two locating pins for the float bowl gasket, it may be fine and then use a couple drops of Gorilla glue to hold the gasket in place. Use a straight edge on the bowl when done.

  13. #13
    It is definetly my reed valve on the bottom carb. I tested with paper then looked down the carb throat and could see there was a leaf missing. Can I get away with changing just the one? And what else would need to be changed at the same time?

  14. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #14
    Yes you can get away with changing the leaf plates but order two. Order a new intake manifold to block gasket and the intake to throttle body spaghetti o ring just to be safe.

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    #15
    check to make sure you dont have something sucked into the reed. I had a lizard sucked up in mine on the bottom carb. ruined my whole weekend. it was also spitting gas and oil everywhere

  16. #16
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  17. #17
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  18. #18
    I accidentally deleted the wrong post above. Champ, looking at the pictures is there a way to repair the reed block? I looked online and the parts are unavailable now so I'm hoping there is a way to repair it. Also I can't find the missing piece of the leaf. Is it possible it would have been sucked out the exhaust port?

  19. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #19
    What part number did you look up??

  20. #20
    0389823 is for the reed plate assembly. I ordered all the other necessary parts.

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